SubaruGirl

My Subaru did not make it home Friday night:boohoo: About 2 miles from work realized that the speedometer and the odometer were not working. Can I assume that my co-worker hit a wire when checking for power to the solenoid or possibly just coincidence? Got about 5 mi from work, as I accelerated up a hill engine began to rev up, tach between 4-5 and only going 40 mph. At first I thought it has slipped into Neutral then realized trans slipping......severely! Next morning got a friend to check it out, took out FWD fuse, checked trans fluid (full, looks good, doesn't smell burnt.) he drove the car the remaining 10 mi to my house. What's your take on all this? I think it's time to give up and go ahead and spend the bucks for TC solenoid. IF it is no longer slipping (could the fuse cause that?) wondering if I need to hire a flat-bed to get it to the Subaru shop (approx 50 mi) or should I go ahead and try to drive it. Luckily it's not my only means of transportation cause it's spent most of the last few weeks parked. Thanks for all your help.

at the risk of showing my ignorance...is the 15 amp too small? Guy here at work checked and said there is power to the solenoid, but it is still 4wd. So why is the FWD fuse not workign? This is really frustrating for me since I can't find a mechanic around here that will do anything except tell me they will put in new TCsolonoid for $600 with no guarantees that will solve the problem. Maybe there is more than one issue here? And how long would it take me to get to Montana?

couldn't find fuse size in manual. Really vague, not sure I would have even figured out I had that option if I hadn't read it here. Used a 15 amp.

You guys have been great, now if ya just lived in Maine. Yes WAWalker I clearly understood your mud. Are you saying that I could have the TC solenoid replaced for $600 and still not solve the problem? I guess I'm looking for assurances before I spend that kind of money. Replaced the tires, old ones measured darn close but needed snow tires anyway. Still binding on sharp slow turns. AT Oil light is flashing at start-up again. What would be the point in spending another $50 for diagnostic, wouldn't they just pull the same code again? BIG QUESTION: I put in the FWD fuse and it is not working! Indicator light does not come on and it is still 4 wheel. What does that tell me?

We had parked the car and not used since I got the diagnostic for fear of doing further damage. Now thanks to all of you I at least have a direction. First thing I will put in FWD fuse, get new tires now instead of waiting (but measure the existing ones as a matter of interest), I will have the trans & differencial fluids changed (which I should have had done already since I bought it used with 100,000 mi and most likely was an auction purchase) and the limited slip additive. Did I miss anything? One more question, since the diagnostic DID show the code for transfer clutch solenoid can I assume that there IS a problem there or can I still hope that the tires & tran service will take care of the binding? As a note of interest, my daughter remembered that the binding was noticed about the same time as we had a slack tire on rear. The binding is what made me notice the tire but I took care of that and still had the binding. Maybe I didn't get the air exactly right. Maybe that tire has a problem but has needed air only that one time? Thanks again for your great help. I'll be sure and let you know the results.

Yes the AT Oil Temp light was flashing at start-up but not since I had the diagnostic done, so I assume they cleared the codes. One tranny place did tell me about inserting a fuse under hood to disable the 4WD. Can you explain how this would help me know for sure it's the trans clutch solenoid. Or would the only reason to disable be to save further damage until I get it fixed. Price quoted from the dealer was $650. Only local tranny place that sounded like they actually knew what they were talking about was $800. Cheapest price quote was $200 (I think he's clue-less) Just got a call back from Subaru repair shop 50+ miles away of $550 I do need to get new snow tires on it for winter, should I do that first? Since I took it to a regular Subaru dealer for diagnostic and they got the transfer clutch solenoid code can I assume the tires are not an issue? I think I'm gonna love this board!

okay don't beat me up, I don't know much about cars, Subaru or otherwise, but I'm trying to do some reasearch so I don't get taken for a ride. I have a 96 Legacy Outback, rear wheels are binding up during slow speed tight turns like in parking lots. I had my "backyard" mechanic check out, brakes, CV, etc all are fine. I took it to a dealer for diagnostic. They tell me its the Transfer Clutch Solenoid (I don't have the code # handy) They quoted big bucks for repair. I have called 8 small tranny shops around, most tell me they won't touch, one gave me higher price than the dealer! One gave me very low quote which scared me almost as much as the high quote (how can he be so much cheaper?- does he know what he's doing?) Does anyone know exactly WHAT a Transfer Clutch Solenoid is, what it involves to change and what will happen if I keep driving as is?? The Outback is my daughter's car, we've only had it 3 months, I really like it and had been seriously considering trading my car for a 04 Outback but this is turning me off. Why can't I find anyone to work on a Subaru?