abeauch

I thought I would share the simple fix to my complex problem with everyone on the message board. One thing I forgot to mention was when I turned my ignition to on the engine compartment would come alive with clicks, and buzzes and fans whirring. I thought this kind of odd like the Autozone guy said "I've never heard an engine do that before?" What I recalled is with the obdi vehicles there is a jumper you connect and a mode you enter that that does this same thing. It is a diagnostic mode. I found a green connector connected under the dash that places these cars into a diagnostic mode. I simply unplugged the connector and no more flashing light, no more cel at all. Took the car for a ride and it ran fine. Idle is still not to spec but is smooth. Not a big worry for me right now. I may at some point replace the coil. So to some up my fix: 1. New plugs, Bosch 2's.. so far they run great. 2. New plug wires from Bond Auto, Made by Power Max 3. Unplugged the diagnostic connector. Thanks to those who took the time to reply to my post.

Car only started doing this recently, Tried clearing the codes but the flashing CEL is there as soon as I start the car. Thanks

Just another update if any one cares. I seem to be making most of these posts myself. I ohmed out all the plug wires. One wire was reading 30k ohms. The others were in spec. Purchased a new set and now my idle is smooth (still low) and accelleration is much better with no bucking. I still have out of spec readings on my coil pack. Resistance is low compared to values in the haynes manual. Still have the blinking CEL also. I also checked the gas cap. Would the coil pak cause this problem?

Hi JohnVT, thanks for the reply. We live somewhat close, I' from Essex Ctr Vt. I See yor from Hinesburgh

I wanted to give a small update to the problem. I replaced the bulb for the check engine light. There was no bulb in the socket. Someone obviously removed it because they got tired of seeing it on. After resetting the ecm I am now able to see the CEL flashing which leads me to believe I have a wire, coil, or igniter problem. Ignition related anyways. I started changing the plugs today, What a job! I found it easier to work from under the car. I was able to replace three of the plugs but the plug wire boot broke off and I can't get a socket over the plug to remove it. I placed the old boot over the old plug and took the car for a ride. What a difference in performance. I found the old plugs were denso and not platinum. They were worn but not fouled. I installed the bosch 2's and there is a significant increase in acceleration and power. I need to get the last one out soon. They ran great when the engine wasn't missing. Am I rigth to go the direction of an ignition problem. Could this cause some of my many codes. Thanks for any comments and suggestions.

Does anyone have anymore input on this problem. I could really use some advice on what direction to go. Thanks

No, the reader he was using was not capable of displaying a number that high

I had disconnected the battery for at least 45 minutes to an hour and had the codes read again. Same results.

I started having an intermittent rough idle and hesitation recently. I was curious as to why my cel had not lit up. I checked for the cel while turning the ignition to on and sure enough the cel did not illumunate. Stopped by Autozone this morning and using the Acton code reader 11 codes were listed. Both O2 sensors had circuitry errors, there was an air metering code, speed sensor, and numerous manufacturer codes. The guy at autozone said he could't read them because they were in the thousands and his reader would only go to the 800's. Does anyone have any idea whats happening here? I'm getting 19 mpg with a low idle (450 rpm 's) but the car runs good other than the intermittent idle issue. Thanks

Is it possible that timing belts could go 164000 miles without failing? I recently purchased this car and the previous owner hasn't a clue as to whats been done. Oil and filter changes and all the recalls but no record of timing belts. I'll probably just change them to get peace of mind on this interference engine. Any thoughts or comments? Thanks

I removed the trim from the A pillar and the only wire appears to be the antennae wire. No white connectors?? Is it possible the location varies by model year?

I took a closer look at the windshield and in the black stripe at the bottom of the windshield I can see lines similar to that of the rear defroster. Definately the right windshield. It doesn't seem to be warming in that area when the switch is on. It may not be connected. I have had two replys which differed on the location of the connection of the windshield wiring and the relay. Could someone shed more light on the subject of where the connection is? Thanks for your replies!

Yes, I do have a wire in that location. Can you actually see the heated strip on the windshield?

Hi, has anyone had any experience with the front defrost and where it connects to the windshield. I have reason to believe that the previous owner may have replaced it. The switch light comes on and I can hear the relay pick but there doesn't seem to be any warming of the black strip. The brand name of the windshield is Pilkington. Is this an OEM vendor? Thanks

I found out the previous owner had brought the car to a Subaru dealer and they wanted 750 to fix the torque bind. Instead the owner decided to sell the car and they placed a fuse in the fwd holder. Today I flushed my own transmission and what a difference. I did a complete flush (11 qts) using a procedure I found on the web. Shifts real smooth and no noises when turning and accelerating like before.

I was wondering if someone could give me an idea what to look for in terms of wiring and connector colors underneath the heated seats. I have a 98 OB that had the seats replaced due to water damage but dont appear to be connected to the switches. I do have wiring under the seats and I do have one connector(blue)under the console that mates up with one switch. I'm beginning to think (the carpeting was replaced also) that whoever did the installation of the seats never ran the cabling properly. Also my wiper motor which wasn't working decided to start running(no wiper movent) on its own with the switch turned off! I've disconnected it for now. Looks like I need a new wiper motor. Thanks for the help.

Would you also be willing to run mine also, I may have reason to believe that the dealer I bought my 98 ob wasn't quite as honest as I thought he was. Thanks 4S3BG6858W7606587 email arjbeauch@verizon.net Thanks.

Hi Everyone, my 98 OB has switches for the heated seats but do not appear to be connected to anything. There is wiring under the seats but I don't know what it connects to. I also have another switch by the heated seat switches that does not appear to be connected to anything. Anyone know why the switches are installed but not functional? Thanks

Good news, I removed the fuse and took it for a ride. Ran some circles in both directions, found some ice for the front wheels, hit the gas and the rear wheels engaged! Still going for the trans flush anyway but looks like I have a functioning AWD!

I went to check the air filter on the 98 OB I purchased recently and I can't get the cover to slide over the tabs. It wasn't on correctly to begin with. If I take out the filter it goes on easy. Should it be this difficult? It appears to be a fram filter. Thanks

I recently purchased a used OB with 163000 miles. Didn't realize the FWD light was on when I purchased the car. Car runs smooth and shifts great. From what I've read the FWD light is on because the AWD has been disabled. Yes there was a fuse installed. I checked the transmission fluid and found it full but discolored with no burnt smell. There is no record of trans fluid change, lots of oil changes but they neglected the trans. Any way I pulled the fuse and started the car. FWD light is now off, no codes flashed while running the engine but I did not take vehicle out of park. I hope that this means there is no problem with the duty c solonoid only some torque bind. I did not want to aggrivate the problem by driving the car. Is it possible someone placed an additive in the trans to solve a problem causing the discoloration? Thanks for the help!