Rossta86

Rotors are fine, if they were out of round im pretty sure it would pulsate when braking. The universal joint is a very good idea, i will check that tomorrow, thanks for the suggestion.

Tires should be fine when it comes to balancing, swapping the tires from front to back does not change the vibration. Its not a brake pulsation. Stepping on the brake will actually make it go away, but that could jsut be becasue the speed lowers. I was intiatlly thinkin it was a wheel bearing issue because of the braking making it go away, but the wheel bearings are not loose, and last time i had the axle out on that side the wheel bearings had no "rough" or hesitation spots when turniong them. Its got me stumped, i may just have to try out another rack. Thanks for all the replies.

I have been chasing a front end shimmy for a while now in my 86 brat. The ball joints, wheel bearings, and tierods are tight when you shake the wheels down. Axles are also relatively new. The shimmy happens between 40-50 miles per hour not above not below. Sounds like a tire balance issue to me, but tires are balanced, i switched the fronts to rear and it made no difference. When shaking the tires side to side i hear a clunking noise in the rack and pinion. Could a worn rack and pinion cause a front end vibration that is speed specific it like this? If im going around a sharp turn at speed it doesn't shake while im in the turn, further pointing me to the steering gear. The brat is lifted and runs toyota rims and 28 inch tires. Thanks

i've got yota rims on my brat, and i love them. Drilling the hubs is not hard to do yourself either and then you get a lot of rim choices. One thing i like about the yota rims is the width, i don't really like the narrow look of the Peugeot, but thats just me. you can always go back to the old subaru pattern you will just have 4 holes dilled in the hubs.

Pull the fan out, take it apart and get all the dust out of it, clean the brushes up and reassemble. The fan in my brat stopped working, did this and its worked great ever since. Be careful the springs behind the brushes get old and break easy, One of mine broke, but it was still usable.

I havn't been on the board in a while, to the point of that my pictures of my lifted brat were deleted off of the members album section(no hard feelings as i have not been around here in a while) To go on i still enjoy reading this forum from time to time, but enough with the reminescing(spelling), the rear disc brakes helped enormously on my subaru. With rear drums on my brat, if i would skid to a stop, the brat would end up sideways. Now with the disc my brat it stops much much straighter. I can't say that it stops straight as an arrow, but i can guarentee you that you will be very happy with the improvement after going from drums to disk in the rear. I feel much safer in an emergency stop with my rear disk than i ever did with my rear drum brakes, I definetly recomend the upgrade.

Thanks for all the responses. I guess ill have to search the junkyards to find one. Quick question, is the brat tank different than the rest, i am assuming it is? Thanks

Its been a while since i have been on this forum, i used to frequent it a year or two back. Anyways my brat began leaking fuel from the tank the other day but i couldn't see where. Pull the tank today and its rotted on the front/top portion of the tank. I searched the forums a bit, maybe not enough, but where you guys been able to find replacement fueltanks for your subarus? I'm somewhat hesitant to go to a junkyard to get one. I figure if its too hard to find another i will repair this one and then seal it inside and out. Thanks

Why go with a 250, i've got an old 78 honda 400 that would really make that thing haul. Great idea, it would be an awsome compliment to your beast.

nevermind i see it now just didn't look close enough

Thanks for the reply. One question though, the float measurements on the diagram are in millimeters correct am i correct?

i'll go ahead and try that, thanks for the quick responses man.

MY mistake i should have mentioned it it is a holley 5200. I have a data sheet telling the float levels and float drops of most of the vehicles using the holley 5200 non feedback carb. If nobody has a definite answer i believe i will just find a vehicle with a motor of the same displacement and use that as a start. Sound like a good idea?

I've searched for this, but i havn't found any answers so if they are out there im sorry for asking again. What settings are you guys with webers running for your float level and float drop. I have the dfev instead of the dgev, but im pretty sure the specifications for the float level and float drop will be the same. Thanks

I am not saying it is not a good idea, but when i did mine, i just put a few pieces of masking tape in the right area, bolted the 6 lug wheel to the hub after i had knocked out two adjacent studs, and used a marker and a center punch to mark the correct spot s to drill. Came out great. im sure you are already gonna do this, but i would defiently use a drill press and not a hand held drill. Get a good bit too, the front hubs are some tuff stuff. If you can't find a 13mm or 14 mm tuff bit or whatever the studs are, a 9/16 weill work, u jsut have to weld the studs in from behind, or else they will spin in their bore. Plus with the weld u can fill in the uneven spots since the back on the studs do not sit flush on the front hubs. Maybe more info that u wanted or needed, but i remeber when i did mine i asked some questions but nobody really had any of the answers i wanted.