f15xxx

hey meester, just order a new speedo from 1stsubaruparts.com for $105 plus shipping and install. all other retail schlub dealers will quote $165. deal with jason, he is most helpful. same problem with my 99 leg l sedan 30th anniv 2.2l 5-sp. btw, it is a mechanical odo so you can carefully set it to whatever you want. how 'bout a 10% off sale for your trouble? heh heh. also, that green ground wire behind the cluster sure is short. i guess that extra inch or two of wire might have materially reduced fuji's quarterlys. not a tough job, just don't scratch anything and take your time. your car will feel like it did several thousand miles ago. heh heh.

well, going to peel off door panels to install new speakers and tweeter kit and want to replace triangular gussets which are cracked at top where window contacts it. looked at FSM on window/gusset alignment procedures and for the life of me cannot understand WHY sube continues to use a frameless design. the gussets don't look too difficult, basically a rotational adjustment. the windows, otoh, look to be some kind of a pita. it would appear to me that the way to align a window is to loosen every adjust bolt, raise the window into position, with the special tool spacers (or a folded piece of paper) between window and moulding, then tighten everything all at once. has anyone been down this road with some observations because i have now developed a "no-broken-side-window-neurosis." i sure hope that i'm obsessing over nothing, because as of present time, i'd HATE to have to install and align a new window. btw, just installed a new factory carpet, rear speakers and steamed the seats, armor-all'ed the console pieces. basically, a new interior. 99 leg l sedan 30th anniv burgundy 2.2l 5MT

i have heard, but have not confirmed, that a dealer can get a mileage code out of the obd2 computer. maybe so, maybe not, maybe just a rumor.

i did a cam belt r&r on my 99 leg l sedan 2.2 5MT and the tooth count was different than that in the haynes manual you quoted. so long as the belt marks line up with the cams and crank in the correct position you will be ok. if it really matters to you, i could pull out my notes from the job to get you the tooth count that i came up with. as i recall, it was somewhat different from haynes but not much. post if you really need this info.

whoa! after trying redline 75-90 and 75-90ns in my 99 leg l sedan 2.2 5mt and still getting a little grind and way too much pita going into 1st at a stop sign, please, please, try redline mt-90. this stuff works, case closed, period. so what if it's not gl-5, who's going to thrash a nice car anyway?

i had the same problem on my 99 leg l sedan 2.2 5M. replaced the speedo with new unit from 1stsubaruparts.com and all works fine. before you go messing with wiring harnesses may i suggest that the plastic foil pak on the rear of your guage cluster might be rotted/damaged which would cause a discontinuity. hate to say, pull the cluster again and replace the foil pak. ps, take a few photos so you know where all the bulbs and ground points are. btw, the wire on the small plug on the rear of the cluster is WAY too short and you will need tiny hands to unclick it to remove the cluster from the dash. i thought about splicing in some relief but just threw it all back together anyway with a few MF'rs along the way.

i bought 2 cv assys from raxles for a 95 corolla. they were about $120 ea.so far they have about 30k miles on them with no problem. the only thing they salvage from your cores are the shafts, everything else is new, new inners and outers, boots, etc. the price is fair considering the product that you get, certainly cheaper than factory toyota cvs. they also send you a neat combination pocketknife that is real sharp as in razor sharp. i wouldn't hesitate to put some of their product on my sube (99 2.2l 5M 25th anniv. "the good one"). they are also good with phone questions and won't treat you with contempt. feel comfy with them.

thanks to leg777 for the FSM downloads re: torque specs. a couple of items for which there remain questions: 1. the A/C belt tensioner bracket - 2 bolts M8x30, haynes says M8 is 14-21 ft-lb. gotta' spec for these? 2. the part that says: "...remove rocker cover to ensure that the valve lash adjuster contains no air." - i have never heard of this admonishment, however, i'm assuming it doesn't apply to me as i have solid lifters. whats up here? 3. the part that says: "...apply engine oil to pulley bolt and seat." - the blue loctite crowd has beaten this to death. what IS proper here? 4. 2-step crank bolt tightening sequence - 1st step to 33 ft-lb, 2nd step a "bolt tightening angle of at least 45 degrees (or replace the bolt)," and final torque spec of 94 +7.2/-3.6 ft-lb. the correct crank bolt torque has also been beaten to death here, some saying 120+ ft-lb. this is not a M14 bolt which haynes says is 80-140 ft-lb. haynes calls an M12 at 50-71 ft-lb. the crank bolt measures out at 13mm, right in the middle, maybe 95-100 ft-lb is more appropriate. what do y'all think? ps- hope not boring people, just a poor ole former 928 mechanic trying to make do w/o a hard copy FSM in front of old squinty eyes. 99 leg l sedan 2.2l 5-sp 30 anniv, 2.5 tensioner

you should take this car to any sube dealer and they will install new catalytic converters for free under the fed 6-yr/80k mile emission warranty. don't let them bs you about other items, it's the cats. my service ticket would have been $1200. thanks sube. i had the identical code. i have speculated with friends of why the cats on these cars wear out and the 3 theories are: 1) short trips which dump rich mixture through cold cats, or 2) sustained high-speed driving, or 3) a bad batch of cats. we suspect it's short trips. 99 leg l sedan 2.2l 5-sp 30th anniv burgundy

thats good info. fyi, the countersunk screws in the back of my oil pump had not backed out, they were all oil-gunked. all needed to be "persuaded" out with an impact wrench. inspected, cleaned and reinstalled w/blue loctite. also, blind seal puller popped seal right out, not nearly as difficult as cam seals. waiting on parts...

what has been your experience with the tranny seals and the diff seals? do they tend to last a while?

yeah, wow, that is a heck of a fro on that white guy with the black les paul. the 70's are still out thankfully. 'preciate the torque spec. might be interested to know that camseals and crank seal were really hard and brittle, never seen any like this before. they were black in color. the car has been in service exactly 6 years. i guess the rear main will go before the clutch... 99 leg l sedan 2.2l 5-sp

99 leg l sedan 2.2 5-sp what is the correct crank bolt spec? endwrench article, haynes book and gates cambelt book say in area of 90 ft/lb. some here say 120 ft/lbs, what gives? also, do you use any blue locktite on the crank bolt? another weird deal here is that this particular engine has the "new" 2.5l tensioner. 77k miles, no cam or crank seal leaks, just a little oil mist from the crank seal. i'm sure it was about to go. had to pull radiator and use air-gun to remove cambolts, they were tight. hardly any room to move here. pretty straighforward.

if you have hydraulic lifters they may have drained some fluid during the TB change depending upon how much you rotated the engine to find TDC etc. in which case the car may run rough and/or noisy for an hour or so. this is what my literature says and i'm in the middle of a TB change myself. 99 leg l sedan 2.2l 5-sp

hey man, i have a 99 leg l sedan 2.2 5-sp anniv (burgundy). have a dealer use the VIN and see what work has been done by sube dealers, usually warranty work. other than that, drive it and look for fluid leaks. also, maint log or receipts from previous owner would be nice. you might be in time for a timing belt change. haven't had any trouble with mine except prior owner had to have p/s pump resealed due to leakage. also had to have both cats replaced (code p0420) under 6yr 80k fed emission warranty. also had to recently put in a new speedometer. beyond that, no brake rotor or clutch horror stories (so far). i think these are the good (old) models.

yo das, do the search on speedos and you'll see my observations regarding this procedure. i was just btdt and you can reset a new speedo to your existing mileage (of course) so long as it has mechanical odometer and not lcd display. just use your old one to practice on before you mess with the new one. the biggest pita is getting the old one out of the panel, i found that some of the connection wires, in particular the single green one to the center of the display, were somewhat short, and this whole area is made for small hands. order you a new one from 1stsubaruparts.com they charged $102 plus shipping, easily beating your dealership "net" price of $140 and "retail" price of $165.

$5000. if they can put on complete clips, your car can be repaired. it's too bad. if you looked up a--hole in the dictionary, there would be a picture of that pickup driver.

99 leg l sedan 2.2 5-sp anniv model. came stock with a P114 am/fm cassette w/o weather radio. i also have obtained a P122 head unit that is an am/fm cassette with function button for cd player. the haynes book shows a late model installation with what appears to be my radio and a cd player, ie: no function button for cd player. question is can a factory single-disc cd be hooked up directly to my existing radio head unit or is the P122 required? also, will i find a pigtail connector for a cd player on my existing wiring harness? if both answers are yes, i'm assuming that playing a cd overrides the am/fm/cassette automatically??? thanks guys.

got a new speedo and reset the odo on it. one small point, after practicing on the old unit, just tip up one end of the gear retaining pin instead of removing it completely. also, leave the black plastic gear alignment "rake" intact. after reseting the odo, push the end of the pin back down into the plastic detent. if it doesn't seat completely, slide the "rake" side-to-side in order to put the gears in the proper location. do not try to force the pin into place, it will not move and if you damage the plastic detents, that's a new speedo, bro. mission accomplished! 99 leg l sedan 2.2 5-sp

a 1000 thank you's, a harrumpf, and a hazzah. i appreciate the info.

yo phillip, you snuck in ahead of my post! thanks for the kind words. i'm assuming that the odo is accessed after removing the faceplate of the speedo??? any tech tips would be appreciated. thanks again.

i decided to order a new speedo from 1stsubaruparts. they are a fantastic outfit and saved me $40 bucks fron net. question is can mechanical odometer be transfered from old unit? i suppose i can tear the old one apart just to see, but was wondering whether anyone had BTDT.

well, count me in too with speedo problem. 99 leg l sedan 2.2 5-sp 77k mi. i have all the same symptoms as y'all: intermittent operation, problem started suddenly, odometer reset sometimes makes it work, no CEL. my corner mech who has sube experience says i'm in for a replacement head unit. i was wondering before i throw in the towel would it make sense to remove the speedo and elec connector and spray some contact cleaner on the connections? if anyone has some enlightenment here, please provide. TIA. ps: i have since read a couple of posts related to this problem. i have a mechanical odometer. one of the posts said that the "old" odometer can be installed into a new speedo in order to preserve original miles. is this true?

mine gets a good harmonic at about 2400 rpm too. i decided the most cost effective way to deal with it was to turn up the stereo and ignore it. these cars all have the same glitches, like the vertical scratches on the outsides of the windows etc.

yeah, i USED TO own a porsche!!! enough of the humor. i am a lawyer. you need to be able to prove that the driver was negligent: ie: wasn't trained properly, didn't listen to your protests about special sube towing procedures, or, didn't have a commercial license. these outfits are usually bonded and have to have some kind of liability binder on file with the state. call your secy of state to see. take 'em to court. if your damages are higher than small claims jurisdiction amount, they will want to bump you up to next level of jurisdiction which will allow for discovery and motions etc. if you don't know what you're doing, things can spin out of control pretty quickly. most of all preserve all receipts, tow dispatch reports (it might say "sube" - need flatbed), and write down all statements made to refresh your memory later. it's too bad what happened to your car, but that's what THEIR insurance is for. good luck fellow sube-dude.