joostvdw

Let's see if I've got this right, I've been digging through the internet for days now and found some, but not all information: Front; diff output; 25 spline - 25 spline (FT4WD and EJ) other EA have 23 spline Front; intermediate shaft; 25 spline - 490mm long - 25 spline (FT4WD) Front; wheel hub; 25 spline to 30 spline; unique for EA series cars Rear; diff output with stub (male end); 23 spline - 22 spline (all EA cars) very hard to find anything for this in reasonable quality Rear; diff output without stub (female end); 25 spline - 22 spline (some hard to find EJ cars have this config, but no longer available)(seems to be quite generic R160 diff) Rear; intermediate shaft; 22 spline - unknown length - 22 spline Do the inside and outside joints of the rear axle have the same splines? What is the spline count on the stub axles inside the rear wheel bearings? See my edit down below. I have found a set of NOS DOJ but they appear to be 23-23 spline and I do not understand where they go? I was hoping I could mix and match some EJ parts to get me the right amount of splines, but the information is very limited. I can find a 25F/22 spline (diff/axle) DOJ but it's some off brand. Also a 25M/22 spline but also off brand. I can find 23/23 spline OEM but I have no use for it? No EJ's seem to use a 25 spline intermediate shaft although people keep saying 1st gen liberty/legacys do? I keep searching in circles hoping to find the unicorn but I may be screwed. Only option left is re-using the splined sections and modifying the rest to something modern.... Of course I can order 4 cheap axles on rockauto, but with shipping and (import) taxes they are no longer cheap (400 euros) and very questionable quality. I am fine with spending money, but not if I end up with useless parts. EDIT: I've just re-read the FSM and it issues a warning not to swap the rear axles end-to-end (wheel side on the diff and viceversa) so that means those splines and dimensions are the same.

Sadly my rear inner DOJs are worn, they have axial/rotational play and audible clicking grinding noises. I have rebooted en regreased them in the past and they still look fine, but sound (and drive) terrible. The fronts are not as bad (yet) but have me worried about parts availability in the future so I'd like to have something ready to go when/if I need them. At the very least they can be a stop-gap until I fabricate something using modern parts. Regreasing the aftermarket axles sounds like solid advice 👍 Are all aftermarket axles created equally? No preferences? They all look the same to me..

@el_freddo You are right, I had another look and the EA series rear CV axles have female splines on both ends and a stub axle in the hub. Second hand is not available here, there were only 30 XTs sold here and there are probably less than 10 EA series cars left. I will send Subarino a message/mail, thanks for the suggestion! @kayakertom Thanks for looking that up for me! The brands I see are however the same I see on Ebay/amazon. Trakmotive, Surtrack, GSP, VSP, Cardone, are any of them any good? They are so ridiculously cheap, it can't be right. If it sounds too good to be true, it probably is...

Surely someone must've already tried fitting EJ axles in the rear of an EA car?

I see there is not a lot of responses, I guess it's difficult finding quality axles for everyone? Would this impreza axle work in the back? It seems that the splines and length are oke? https://www.autodoc.co.uk/gsp/13921401

Hi all, I've been a member since forever and all that time I did mostly reading, but now I actually need some help with finding parts. I still have and drive my 87 XT Turbo and I've worn out the rear (inner) DOJs. The fronts are probably not far behind and the outer joints will also have the same mileage on them so not the youngest. I'd like to replace all 4 inner and outer joints (or perhaps complete axles) but cannot easily find the right parts in Europe. Since its a turbo car it has 25 splines on the FT4WD transmission and 23 splines on the stubs of the diff. If you remove the stubs there are internal 25 splines. Can I use EJ parts? Which ones? I can buy complete axles on ebay or Amazon but I have no idea of quality (probably spoob). Are there reputable axle resellers in the US I could contact? Thank you in advance and best regards, Joost from the Netherlands

Hi Marnix I guess those chips won't work in the EA ECUs?

I'm having some issues with my XT and decided to open up the ECU to see if I could find something obvious. I can't find anything, but could you please have a look and perhaps compare with your own ECU? Couple of things I noticed: There seems to be an empty slot for a chip? And the chip next to it is a reprogrammable EPROM with some number stamped on it, perhaps it was modified? Also there is room on the PCB for another green LED, exactly opposite the existing one, why would they do that? The ECU is btw from a 1988 XT turbo, partnr. 22611aa540 with a large "33" stamped on the cover.

It's sad to see an XT go like that, especially since so very few made it over here But it's good to know that a small piece (or 2 actually) will live on halfway across the globe Btw, I also have 2 bikes and a moped What are your plans for the radiator? I once saw an EG33 equipped brat which had the grill moved forward about the depth of the front bumper so there was room for a custom alu rad but that'll cost you some serious money..

Ah yes, I forgot about that, most non-turbo 1.8 subaru's here (all 5 of em:rolleyes:) are MPFI.

NA heads WILL work on a turbo engine, but they lack the oil feed and return lines for the turbo on the head, so it's very unpractical. In theory you could drill and tap these holes, but getting all the metal out will difficult.

try changing the fuel filter, especially if you've put some sort of cleaner in the tank. After that, you could swap the fuel pump, I've seen this before on an XT turbo, same sort of problem, no CEL, but turned out to be a faulty pump (you can just listen at it, if it's very loud, time to replace)

You could try fitting the complete EDIS-4 system, it will work on it's own without signal from any management system and will have a decent ignition curve. Your biggest problem is going to fit the trigger wheel to the crank, but it can be done.

Sounds like you've got the cooling part covered then I'm not on any of the dutch fora, little to no knowledge or interest in older subarus, so I tend to hang around here I have an account on both subaru youngtimers forum and on SCN, but hardly ever use them. My accounts are JoostXT and Joostvdw I believe, but you're better off e-mailing me. Keep me updated on the mega-squirt, I'm real tempted to do this myself one day.