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joostvdw

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About joostvdw

  • Birthday 06/17/1970

Profile Information

  • Location
    Holland
  • Occupation
    ..
  • Vehicles
    '88 XT turbo FT4WD

joostvdw's Achievements

Subaru Nut

Subaru Nut (7/11)

10

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  1. Hi Marnix I guess those chips won't work in the EA ECUs?
  2. I'm having some issues with my XT and decided to open up the ECU to see if I could find something obvious. I can't find anything, but could you please have a look and perhaps compare with your own ECU? Couple of things I noticed: There seems to be an empty slot for a chip? And the chip next to it is a reprogrammable EPROM with some number stamped on it, perhaps it was modified? Also there is room on the PCB for another green LED, exactly opposite the existing one, why would they do that? The ECU is btw from a 1988 XT turbo, partnr. 22611aa540 with a large "33" stamped on the cover.
  3. It's sad to see an XT go like that, especially since so very few made it over here But it's good to know that a small piece (or 2 actually) will live on halfway across the globe Btw, I also have 2 bikes and a moped What are your plans for the radiator? I once saw an EG33 equipped brat which had the grill moved forward about the depth of the front bumper so there was room for a custom alu rad but that'll cost you some serious money..
  4. Hey,

    I just saw your post about the XT6 you're stripping, and I need part of the front fenders. If they are (almost) rust free behind the frond wheels, would you be willing to cut a piece of both fenders and send that to europe for me?

    Let me know if you want to do that for me and what it would cost me :)

     

    Thanks, Joost

    (joostvdw@hotmail.com)

  5. Ah yes, I forgot about that, most non-turbo 1.8 subaru's here (all 5 of em:rolleyes:) are MPFI.
  6. NA heads WILL work on a turbo engine, but they lack the oil feed and return lines for the turbo on the head, so it's very unpractical. In theory you could drill and tap these holes, but getting all the metal out will difficult.
  7. try changing the fuel filter, especially if you've put some sort of cleaner in the tank. After that, you could swap the fuel pump, I've seen this before on an XT turbo, same sort of problem, no CEL, but turned out to be a faulty pump (you can just listen at it, if it's very loud, time to replace)
  8. You could try fitting the complete EDIS-4 system, it will work on it's own without signal from any management system and will have a decent ignition curve. Your biggest problem is going to fit the trigger wheel to the crank, but it can be done.
  9. Sounds like you've got the cooling part covered then I'm not on any of the dutch fora, little to no knowledge or interest in older subarus, so I tend to hang around here I have an account on both subaru youngtimers forum and on SCN, but hardly ever use them. My accounts are JoostXT and Joostvdw I believe, but you're better off e-mailing me. Keep me updated on the mega-squirt, I'm real tempted to do this myself one day.
  10. Hi Stefan, I'm also one of the lucky dutch owners of a EA82T, but mine is where it belongs, in the front of a XT Anyway, these engines are very failure prone and everything needs to be spot on for it to run fast and long. The main issues are heat management (intercooler, oil cooler and large radiator, everything a stock EA82T doesn't have over here and engine management, the injectors are too small and designed for 110hp engine, not 136hp, or 170hp for that matter. After that, keep up with the maintenance and you should be fine. If I were you, I would put a standalone engine management in it, (probably megasquirt since it's cheap) and replace the injectors, or at the very least up the fuel pressure. Something else to look at is the fuel rails, especially when you're running at the limit of the injectors. The stock fuel rail is not very good at delivering fuel equally at all injectors, thus starving the passenger side head. If you ever need help or anything with this engine, shoot me an email, I'm happy to help and quite knowledgeable if I may say so myself Succes ermee!
  11. I always thought burning oil gives a blueish/black smoke? White sounds like coolant burning off. But it's easy to check, just drive it around town and do your thing. And keep an eye on fluid levels, you'll quickly see which one is disappearing. Did the car have a blown head gasket when yo bought it? It could be old coolant in de catalytic converter burning off..
  12. As you can see from my join date and my post count I'm obviously not here to raise my post count and look impressive My addition to the conversation was pointing out GD was not being an rump roast for being an rump roast (although he does seem to like doing that) but he was asking for scientific confirmation. As for your real life experience, I'm glad it works for you and I'm not doubting you telling the truth. But with these kind of technologies or mods, which sound sketchy to me, I like to see hard evidence (dyno printout/fysics explaining how/why it works) before I'm sold.
  13. You can test for coolant in the oil with a lighter, just light a flame under the dipstick with some oil on it. If it sputters there's coolant in it. If it does nothing, it's clean oil (uuh, oke, maybe not clean, but atleast there's no water in it.) As for milkshake in the oil filter, you could clean up the mess, drive it for a couple of miles and see if you can find the source. This type of sludge buildup can also happen when crankcase breathers are blocked or the PO ran if often for short amounts (and not revving the engine).
  14. I'm sorry, but first you challenge him to be specific and scientific, like you're used to. And when he does so, with direct and specific questions on how it works, you just say "it works, believe me". Doesn't sound very scientific and "researchy" to me? Also, he's not debating facts, he's questioning where they are coming from, also something you do all the time when doing scientific research, trying to understand what the hell just happened (more power with an spacer) and must importantly how does it happen.
  15. I think Scott meant 4'' total. 2'' bodylift and 2'' lift from the outback struts.
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