joostvdw

Let's see if I've got this right, I've been digging through the internet for days now and found some, but not all information: Front; diff output; 25 spline - 25 spline (FT4WD and EJ) other EA have 23 spline Front; intermediate shaft; 25 spline - 490mm long - 25 spline (FT4WD) Front; wheel hub; 25 spline to 30 spline; unique for EA series cars Rear; diff output with stub (male end); 23 spline - 22 spline (all EA cars) very hard to find anything for this in reasonable quality Rear; diff output without stub (female end); 25 spline - 22 spline (some hard to find EJ cars have this config, but no longer available)(seems to be quite generic R160 diff) Rear; intermediate shaft; 22 spline - unknown length - 22 spline Do the inside and outside joints of the rear axle have the same splines? What is the spline count on the stub axles inside the rear wheel bearings? See my edit down below. I have found a set of NOS DOJ but they appear to be 23-23 spline and I do not understand where they go? I was hoping I could mix and match some EJ parts to get me the right amount of splines, but the information is very limited. I can find a 25F/22 spline (diff/axle) DOJ but it's some off brand. Also a 25M/22 spline but also off brand. I can find 23/23 spline OEM but I have no use for it? No EJ's seem to use a 25 spline intermediate shaft although people keep saying 1st gen liberty/legacys do? I keep searching in circles hoping to find the unicorn but I may be screwed. Only option left is re-using the splined sections and modifying the rest to something modern.... Of course I can order 4 cheap axles on rockauto, but with shipping and (import) taxes they are no longer cheap (400 euros) and very questionable quality. I am fine with spending money, but not if I end up with useless parts. EDIT: I've just re-read the FSM and it issues a warning not to swap the rear axles end-to-end (wheel side on the diff and viceversa) so that means those splines and dimensions are the same.

Sadly my rear inner DOJs are worn, they have axial/rotational play and audible clicking grinding noises. I have rebooted en regreased them in the past and they still look fine, but sound (and drive) terrible. The fronts are not as bad (yet) but have me worried about parts availability in the future so I'd like to have something ready to go when/if I need them. At the very least they can be a stop-gap until I fabricate something using modern parts. Regreasing the aftermarket axles sounds like solid advice 👍 Are all aftermarket axles created equally? No preferences? They all look the same to me..

@el_freddo You are right, I had another look and the EA series rear CV axles have female splines on both ends and a stub axle in the hub. Second hand is not available here, there were only 30 XTs sold here and there are probably less than 10 EA series cars left. I will send Subarino a message/mail, thanks for the suggestion! @kayakertom Thanks for looking that up for me! The brands I see are however the same I see on Ebay/amazon. Trakmotive, Surtrack, GSP, VSP, Cardone, are any of them any good? They are so ridiculously cheap, it can't be right. If it sounds too good to be true, it probably is...

Surely someone must've already tried fitting EJ axles in the rear of an EA car?

I see there is not a lot of responses, I guess it's difficult finding quality axles for everyone? Would this impreza axle work in the back? It seems that the splines and length are oke? https://www.autodoc.co.uk/gsp/13921401

Hi all, I've been a member since forever and all that time I did mostly reading, but now I actually need some help with finding parts. I still have and drive my 87 XT Turbo and I've worn out the rear (inner) DOJs. The fronts are probably not far behind and the outer joints will also have the same mileage on them so not the youngest. I'd like to replace all 4 inner and outer joints (or perhaps complete axles) but cannot easily find the right parts in Europe. Since its a turbo car it has 25 splines on the FT4WD transmission and 23 splines on the stubs of the diff. If you remove the stubs there are internal 25 splines. Can I use EJ parts? Which ones? I can buy complete axles on ebay or Amazon but I have no idea of quality (probably spoob). Are there reputable axle resellers in the US I could contact? Thank you in advance and best regards, Joost from the Netherlands

Hi Marnix I guess those chips won't work in the EA ECUs?

I'm having some issues with my XT and decided to open up the ECU to see if I could find something obvious. I can't find anything, but could you please have a look and perhaps compare with your own ECU? Couple of things I noticed: There seems to be an empty slot for a chip? And the chip next to it is a reprogrammable EPROM with some number stamped on it, perhaps it was modified? Also there is room on the PCB for another green LED, exactly opposite the existing one, why would they do that? The ECU is btw from a 1988 XT turbo, partnr. 22611aa540 with a large "33" stamped on the cover.

It's sad to see an XT go like that, especially since so very few made it over here But it's good to know that a small piece (or 2 actually) will live on halfway across the globe Btw, I also have 2 bikes and a moped What are your plans for the radiator? I once saw an EG33 equipped brat which had the grill moved forward about the depth of the front bumper so there was room for a custom alu rad but that'll cost you some serious money..

Ah yes, I forgot about that, most non-turbo 1.8 subaru's here (all 5 of em:rolleyes:) are MPFI.

NA heads WILL work on a turbo engine, but they lack the oil feed and return lines for the turbo on the head, so it's very unpractical. In theory you could drill and tap these holes, but getting all the metal out will difficult.

try changing the fuel filter, especially if you've put some sort of cleaner in the tank. After that, you could swap the fuel pump, I've seen this before on an XT turbo, same sort of problem, no CEL, but turned out to be a faulty pump (you can just listen at it, if it's very loud, time to replace)

You could try fitting the complete EDIS-4 system, it will work on it's own without signal from any management system and will have a decent ignition curve. Your biggest problem is going to fit the trigger wheel to the crank, but it can be done.

Sounds like you've got the cooling part covered then I'm not on any of the dutch fora, little to no knowledge or interest in older subarus, so I tend to hang around here I have an account on both subaru youngtimers forum and on SCN, but hardly ever use them. My accounts are JoostXT and Joostvdw I believe, but you're better off e-mailing me. Keep me updated on the mega-squirt, I'm real tempted to do this myself one day.

Hi Stefan, I'm also one of the lucky dutch owners of a EA82T, but mine is where it belongs, in the front of a XT Anyway, these engines are very failure prone and everything needs to be spot on for it to run fast and long. The main issues are heat management (intercooler, oil cooler and large radiator, everything a stock EA82T doesn't have over here and engine management, the injectors are too small and designed for 110hp engine, not 136hp, or 170hp for that matter. After that, keep up with the maintenance and you should be fine. If I were you, I would put a standalone engine management in it, (probably megasquirt since it's cheap) and replace the injectors, or at the very least up the fuel pressure. Something else to look at is the fuel rails, especially when you're running at the limit of the injectors. The stock fuel rail is not very good at delivering fuel equally at all injectors, thus starving the passenger side head. If you ever need help or anything with this engine, shoot me an email, I'm happy to help and quite knowledgeable if I may say so myself Succes ermee!

I always thought burning oil gives a blueish/black smoke? White sounds like coolant burning off. But it's easy to check, just drive it around town and do your thing. And keep an eye on fluid levels, you'll quickly see which one is disappearing. Did the car have a blown head gasket when yo bought it? It could be old coolant in de catalytic converter burning off..

As you can see from my join date and my post count I'm obviously not here to raise my post count and look impressive My addition to the conversation was pointing out GD was not being an rump roast for being an rump roast (although he does seem to like doing that) but he was asking for scientific confirmation. As for your real life experience, I'm glad it works for you and I'm not doubting you telling the truth. But with these kind of technologies or mods, which sound sketchy to me, I like to see hard evidence (dyno printout/fysics explaining how/why it works) before I'm sold.

You can test for coolant in the oil with a lighter, just light a flame under the dipstick with some oil on it. If it sputters there's coolant in it. If it does nothing, it's clean oil (uuh, oke, maybe not clean, but atleast there's no water in it.) As for milkshake in the oil filter, you could clean up the mess, drive it for a couple of miles and see if you can find the source. This type of sludge buildup can also happen when crankcase breathers are blocked or the PO ran if often for short amounts (and not revving the engine).

I'm sorry, but first you challenge him to be specific and scientific, like you're used to. And when he does so, with direct and specific questions on how it works, you just say "it works, believe me". Doesn't sound very scientific and "researchy" to me? Also, he's not debating facts, he's questioning where they are coming from, also something you do all the time when doing scientific research, trying to understand what the hell just happened (more power with an spacer) and must importantly how does it happen.

I think Scott meant 4'' total. 2'' bodylift and 2'' lift from the outback struts.

If this is the case then you don't have to worry. It's not that hard. You'll need wire diagrams of both the car you're swapping in and where you're swapping from and then decide which wires and sensors are essential for the engine. Stuff like fuel tank temp and pressure (which some models have for safety) are not needed.

You can easily revs these engines to 7k, THEN you'll have an engine whine It could still be ignition though, on boost the increase in pressure can "blow out" the spark, in other words, the spark is too weak. Spark plugs can also fail under boost/pressure. The chance of all four failing is very small though. Hot wiring the fuel pump will not bypass the overboost protection (fuel-cut) since the ECU will just not open the injectors. This however is so severe it feels like you've just mashed your brake pedal making you head-butt the steering wheel Does the stumble coincide with the passing of 0 PSIG? The fuel pressure regulator should switch "modes" so to speak when you pass 0, check if it's all properly connected and working. Easy check is disconnecting it and see if you'll notice anything Also the vacuum connection shouldn't smell like fuel (obviously).

^agreed Getting an external voltage regulator with over-voltage protection will save your digi dash from any voltage spikes or problems. This can be as simple as 1 12V IC VR with a capacitor to smoothen the voltage spikes. If you don't know how to do this, perhaps contact a electronics student. He'll probably whip it out in 10secs and if you give him some beer he'll be happy (I know it works like that over here)

Try replacing the ignition coil, they are known to give these problems (stumbling when hot)