joostvdw

Is it possible you bend the backing plate a bit? If it barely touches the rotor while driving this could squeek.

Whats so special about them bolts? Just get them at a hardware store, just make sure they can handle the specified torque. Oh and don't get SS bolts, they eat into the aluminium.

there are asian characters in it!? last time I checked, asia wasn't part of europe

I can garantee that that's not EDM, because I can't read it I do like the legacy though

I highly doubt its as simple as you make it sound, but it can certainly be done. the EA81 fits in the same space as the EA82 and uses the same mounting points, AFAIK the ea81t is MPFI but uses the SPFI mounting points, so you have to swap that with the engine, the SPFI system does not like boost. why hasn't it been done? I don't know, but something that's even stranger to me, people O-ring and put custom pistons in EA81T's but not in EA82T's and then complain about blowing pistons or HGs? Seems to me, somehow, people spend more money on the EA81T then on the EA82T.

I sorta figured you wouldn't rev it cold (you know better then that), but wanted to state it here nonetheless, it can't be said enough.... it takes a car atleast 10km's of normal driving to warm up properly

daeron, I hope you're not revving the engine while the oil is cold :-\ that's about the worst thing you can do to an engine (besides running without oil...)

and that mazda turbo has the same RH5B internals as the VF7 you can just swap the internals to the housing of a VF7 and in essence have a rebuilt turbo. edit: just read up on this and it seems this turbo has a bigger .AR on the hotside, perhaps one can swap the housings... would be a nice upgrade...

I can understand why the block itself melted, but where are the pistons? they're not made from aluminium? it's actually quite sad, those engines are probably very common where you live, but a proper ea81 would fetch you over $200 here, just because we don't have as many. oh well. have fun :cool:

that's alot :-\ sorry if this is strange question, but what do you use a CB for? I don't think I've even seen one, let alone use one :-p

I don't know how complicated this bushing is, but can't you get a machine shop make you a nylon replica? shouldn't be too hard or too expensive and lasts a live time.

I don't know how "watery" seafoam is, or how fast it evaporates, but if it's anything like water, don't dump it all too quickly into the TB as you may risk hydrolock, use a vacuum hose instead.

as far as I know the internals of the EA transmissions are very similar to the EJ series transmissions, so power wise I think it will hold, but! there are people who break the trannys on stock WRXes, so anything is possible... having said that, I would go for an EJ tranny, more and better clutch options, fits without a hassle to the engine and you have a viscous centre diff, which is never a bad thing

yes your mileage will suffer and it will run terrible, just do as GD said a couple posts up, that's the only proper way.

HA! you're speedo only goes to 180km/h, how cute :-p It is an RX turbo right? It should go higher then 180? On my XT turbo it goes to 220km/u I think, maybe higher. Never made it that high though (after 200km/u I have terrible boost creep, instant 15psi)

This is purely hypothetical, because I have no need for it and no need to damage my turbo either, but I just wanted to discuss it here. As far as I k now all an ALS (anti-lag system) does is retard ignition timing and inject fuel when you're off the throttle between shifts. The enrichend mixture ignites in the manifold uppipe and keeps the turbo up to speed (and thus boost). Alright, injection fuel is not to hard to do, just make a timer circuit (555 anyone?) with the right duty cycle. Sensing you're off throttle is not that hard either, just use the idle switch or mount a seperate switch. But you don't want the ALS kicking in when you're idleing, so, you need a way to sense that. By using the RPM signal, you can use a high-pass filter (RC circuit) to sense you're above 3000rpm (or any other rpm you like), and use those two sensor inputs in a AND circuit. Last but not least you need to retard the ignition. I'm not 100% sure on this, but I would think one can just put a RC circuit on the signal side of the coil and this retard it. Who's knows? Anyway, just kicking this around, I got bored during college and thought this up. There will most likely be a mistake somewhere, as it seems way to simple to me

the old name was xt6.net but never mind, I'm more interested as to where you read this? as I didn't see a new thread about it or anything?

I know that the 87+ dizzy has a sensor wheel with small slots (cam/crank position sensor) under a metal plate under the rotor, so you can't see it, but it may still be dirty or wet. have you checked simple things? like connectors corroded/wet? no vacuum hoses came off?

xt6.org? :-p

there's no reason why you can't pull the wires in the parking lot just watch out, it may get hot down there...

comment deleted never mind, I was thinking of an EA82 :roll:

why don't you weld on a nut? or let somebody weld on a nut, that way you'll have a flat mating surface (so easy to seal properly) and more thread (again, better seal) as I think there is going to be quite some pressure in the struts.

if you can find someone with an oscilloscoop and an SVX your problems may be solved might want to contact fadedbear on the subaruxt board, I know he's into electronics

just a little piece of info, D/R EJ tranny's were also sold in europe

I was searching for info about the blower motor and stumbled across this old thread of mine and decided it needed an update exhaust leak is fixed, the original gaskets and a helicoil in the head with new studs and nuts all-round did the trick. thing is, the thread looked oke to me, be apparently it would work itself loose one way or another, the helicoil stays put and has been doing so for the past 6000km