joostvdw

I was searching for info about the blower motor and stumbled across this old thread of mine and decided it needed an update exhaust leak is fixed, the original gaskets and a helicoil in the head with new studs and nuts all-round did the trick. thing is, the thread looked oke to me, be apparently it would work itself loose one way or another, the helicoil stays put and has been doing so for the past 6000km

thanks for the effort guys but have you read my post at all (maybe I wasn't clear enough)? I want wide performance tires the same size as the standard tires, that's 185/70/13, I currently have 185/70/15 or something, too big, that's for sure. second question was if someone had pictures of 205/60/14 tires, as they may be too bulky.

I'm getting some 14'' peugeot alloys and was wondering what size tires I can fit to them and if someone had pictures of the different sizes? I want to keep the speedo readout somewhat normal so I came with these sizes 205/60/14 or 195/60/14, loads of other sizes are possible, but I can't find tires in those sizes :-\ p.s. it's for under the XT, so no offroad tires, they need to be "performance" tires.

in theory yes, but the stock injectors of the 1.8 do not flow enough for the thirsty 2.2. also, the computer can only modify the original map to a certain amount, and it's not enough to run at 100% with 2.2 injectors and 1.8 ECU (otherwise, why would people get an ecutek on their modded WRXes?) I can also imagine that the ignition maps on the 2.2 are different since the cam profiles and motor characteristics are different from the 1.8, but don't know for sure though. You can run with the 1.8 ECU and 2.2 injectors and use a SAFC for fine tuning. Or run with the 2.2 ECU and injectors, but I don't know if the other sensors are swappable (I'd doubt it). All this is based on EDM cars, I don't think they differ very much on this level from the USDM models, but you never know for sure...

but the 1.8 injectors won't flow enough for the 2.2 to run at full potential it will work, but not the way it's supposed.

I don't know if it's the same on the EA81s, but I know that the EA82s also light the "low-brake-fluid" light if 1 of the brake light bulbs is broken, something you could've easily missed, since you can't really check that on your own

why don't you make a blow-through style EA81T or even better, blow-through compressor... mmm...

when was the last time the clutch was replaced? It could be clutch chatter, in other words, the clutch plate grips, looses grip, grips, looses grip, that kinda thing.

rule of thumb is every 5 years or 70k or something like that, either way, your past it's service interval :-p you can visually inspect them while they are on the engine, if there are no frays and no visible cracks you'll be fine for a while it wouldn't be bad though to start reading and learning about how to replace them and set the timing correctly, the usrm has a comprehensive guide.

my XT is at a flimsy 143000km thats about 88k miles :-p

only the EZ30R has the AVCS, so if you stick with the older EZ30s you'll have no problem besides, I thought there was a standalone system that could work with that variable stuff, but I might be wrong...

this sounds like the dreaded small coolant hose under the intake, you can't actually reach it without removing the intake. oh and it did this because you free-revved it that's not what car engines are designed for and they don't like it. how would you feel running on a treadmill without resistance?

I must say, very nice brat you have there! but if you're thinking about painting it, if you look at your avatar, you'll see reflections on the side of the brat, at first I thought that was a very wide white stripe, and I think it looks hot! so, something to consider. unless you want to restore it to factory looks, then ofcourse, don't

justy transmissions do not fit, it's a transverse engine and a completely different design sorry, keep searching (check the ad's on the board here)

that legacy AT is the 4EAT and that IS heavy, so watch out when handling that thing.

yes and no You're right in the fact that we use different octane ratings, but that doesn't mean we don't have higher levels in other parts of the world. I know for fact that the germans have 100 (RON) octane and that is per the european rating system.

I've been fighting this same problem for the past 2 years I assume it has the moonroof, if so, check the "gutter" and check the draining holes AND the tubes going through the A-pillar and C-pillar towards the wheel wells, if these drainage holes are plugged, water will come in. if these drainage holes are fine, then good luck to you, and please report back if you find it, because I still haven't

something I've been thinking about is using a SAFC Some people have tried and the biggest problem I know of is that they work at +5v and the MAF works at +10v, but that's no real problem, you could make a voltage divider to get the signal to the SAFC at +5v and after the SAFC did it's thing with it ramp it up again with an amp to the needed +10v to the ECU. If this is done with the correct parts and filters you'll have no (noticeable) signal loss. The stock ECU will still control idle, cold enrichment, knock control and all ignition timing. (as always with an SAFC)

link works fine for me? awesome bike btw I'm actually not a fan of choppers, but you must appreciate the workmanship that has gotten into this bike

don't get me wrong, if you're going to swap engines/trannys anyway you might as well get the ratio you want, it's just not worth it to do all this effort for not so much result. all just my opinion, if you want to go for it, be my guest

a transmission with higher gear ratios is not going to make your six any faster. you'll still have the same power, you're just trading top speed for acceleration. the guys at FHI knew what they were doing when they gave these ratios to the corresponding cars, as long as you don't make any drastic changes (or need lower gears for offroad use) just stay with the stock ratios, not worth the hassle to change it all

remove the cap and suck on the vacuum line going into the dizzy, you'll see it move inside if you don't want to put your mouth on the vacuum line (which I can understand) you can use a big syringe instead

if that's the case, why do both of my trannys (I swapped trannys a while ago) only whine in first gear? maybe it's something S/R full time 4WD trannys do?

if you don't have to pass emissions but have to have a cat installed, just mount a hollowed out cat the missing cotter pin is easily fixed with a self locking nut (no need for a cotter pin) everything is actually quite seasily fixed, its just a pain to do :-p good luck with it

one other thing, don't use sanding paper on the pistons as they are metal plated, sanding them down will remove the plating and thus ruin the fitting inside the caliper (and they'll rust like there's no tomorrow) if they are rusted, replace the pistons and check inside the caliper for wear spots.