joostvdw

no starting while it's hot is a classic broken coil symptom, I'm guessing you have 2 coils (one from the donor and one from the driver) just swap them and see if anything changes

I would think 2 VF7's on a EA82T is more fun than a TD04, but that's just me and NO I don't think it would be wiser, faster, better than a single TD04, but way cooler, and that's all that counts

I don't mean ignition timing, I mean cam timing, with the timing belts on the front of the engine

have you re-checked your timing belts? also the intake manifold gaskets can be installed up side down and fit but they don't seal (don't ask me how I know that ) try spraying some carb cleaner around hoses and fittings, if you spray it onto a leak, the idle will jump.

I know from personal experience it will run 7k rpm don't know when the valves exactly float, but after 6k there is no power left (turbo is out of breath) so no need to rev it so high unless you want to time your 0-60 time, 60 in second gear :cool:

sounds like a nice line-up, but, I very much doubt you can get all 4 loose. On a good day your mods will net you about 200chp, to break loose all 4 you need at least 400chp, you will chirp the tires, sure, but completely loose? unless of course you have non-performance, skinny, old tires

In that case, go for it! But just like the guys above me, a rollcage is very highly recommended if not necessary. Removing the roof and windows on a unibody car won't benefit structural integrity

if you're sticking with the VF7 you should definately port your wastegate (unless extrude honing is just that ) because I have a stock EA82T with 2,5 inch TBE and it boost creeps like there is no tomorrow... so while your turbo is out, please, port it.

is the diff bathing in diff oil or in ATF? because if it has it's own oil supply and should it fail, just be prepared to do the solinoid hack on the way, to get the car into true 4wd and drive it home (with horrible torque bind, but the trans is toasted anyway) if it gets really ugly (diff completely locked up etc.) you can still put it in true 4wd, pull the front axles and drive it home in RWD. not something you want to do on the side of the road, but if it comes down to it, this is the way.

aah I see now, yeah it definately looks better with coupe doors instead of just welding up the rear doors you would also need the coupe front seat, they flip forward for rear seat acces this would be one of the first subaru shooting brakes! (XT wagon comes to mind..)

why would you want the front doors of a 2door? the front doors you have now are fine and I would think it's a major job (read PITA) to move the B-pillar back enough for the 2door doors to fit. if you just weld up the rear doors, you also won't need the rear quarter panels of the 2 door, they wouldn't fit anyway, because the wagon is longer. besides that, sounds great! go for it!

you can also listen to the injector put a screwdriver against it and listen at the handle, you will hear a very distinctive clicking noise if it works properly does the SPFI have a return line for the fuel system? if not, it could be that your fuel pump was changed for a one that supplies to much fuel pressure and thus making it run pig rich if it does have a return line, check the fuel regulator.

it sounds like it's putting out enough but, measure in AC (not airco, alternating current) this time, you'll check your diodes this way, I don't know the exact number, but ideally this would be 0V also, like gary said, check all the wiring, I know some cars have solid positive wires going to the starter and they get brittle over time.

bump, I would like to know this

alright, if you know what you're doing, I'll shut up it just sounded wrong in my opinion, but I misunderstood what the wires were really for (I thought they carried a part of the weight, instead of just stabilizing it)

I know I've read it somewhere, but can someone explain to me quick and dirty why studs are "better" than bolts? and the length difference, is there 1 bolt longer then the rest? or shorter? if it's shorter you can just cut it down yourself

if the bolts are really the weak spot (or actually the thread inside the block halves) helicoils will definately fix that, strange I never thought of it before...:-\ added benefit is that you can pick the diameter and pitch of your choice.

if you honestly believe that's the problem, maybe someone should try helicoils? that way you could also use some premanufactured ARP studs (instead of the $900 customs WJM was talking about) I know that motorcycle guys do this all the time, using helicoils instead of threaded aluminium because that's way stronger.

alright thansk for the info , it looks like it might not be that hard to rig something up to generate a "digidash sender signal" from a analog dash sender no where in the FSM do they mention the resistence of the sender itself? someone care to dive in their car and measure it?

bump, who wants to check their FSM? I have a XT FSM with the analog dash and it looks like the analog sender unit is of the resistor type and ranges between 7ohm (empty) to 95ohm (full)

pistons aren't the foremost weak link, I would spend the cash on O-ringed heads and/or treat them (cryo or ceramic) this should keep the HG in 1 piece and will allow you to safely boost higher also injection system MUST be adressed, stock injectors are not big enough, even with the pressure upped.

guys! he's going to turbo it, so no need to plug the line or whatever, just install the turbo

but removing the oil pan will give you a better angle of attack, even if the crossmember and bellhousing are as high (low?) as the pan.

if you have a turbo and want power just rev it up, that's why I shift so high I've even noticed it not using that much more gas but it drives tons better if you keep it around 4k, just keep it in fourth gear on the freeway, the engine is really happy at 4k and is remarkable quiet ultimately, yes, you will save some gas by shifting earlier and not revving it too high, but where's the fun in that

I'm trying to fit a trip computer to my XT, and I would like to be able to use the "range" function, I know it won't be accurate and I know it's useless, but I still want it and if it's on the computer it must work :-p so, it has a analog dash so it has the wrong sender, but I'm not going to change it because that way the dash gauge won't work. the question is, what do both sensor have as outputs? Can I modify my "analog" sender to give the same signal as the "digital" sender, could it be as simple as 0-10V (analog) instead of 0-5V (PPL signal, digital)? perhaps the FSM's give insight? Anyone care to look in the digi-dash-equipped-cars-FSM?