joostvdw

EA82T when its cold, at about 3,5k (needle is upright then ) normally driving around, cruising at 4k shifting at 5k'ish flogging, redline (actually more like 6,5k, will go further, it just doesn't have any more oempf after that)

if you are planning on replacing the stub shaft on the diff anyway, you could always use your trusty grinder I would think the cups are fairly tough though, so keep your discs handy.

if all else fails, you can also lean out the car on test day, there is an adjuster screw on the MAF, after you pass emissions, just enrichen it and bob's your uncle :-p

yes, that's also very true, but as we all know now, he has a another set of heads laying around, so problem solved :-p

you say you increase the intake charge temp, but the exhaust gasses don't get hotter? how come? where did the heat go? the turbo on my XT gets red hot on the exhaust side after some flogging, and that's after MILES of exhaust (wel, not exactly, but you get my point) so I'm betting that liner is equally hot if not hotter. also, there doesn't have to be metal to metal contact for the liner to heat up, exhaust gasses will do the trick just fine. as a final note, I don't mean to be harsh or anything but your experiences with datsun engines, means squat on subaru's, especially since virtually nobody here has ever seen these liners in subaru's before so nobody knows how they behave. my advice, rip em out!

the stock uppipe on my EA82T has marks of molten metal blobs closest to the exhaust port, and it's all stock! (except the 2,5 TBE) my brothers peugeot 205 (non turbo) has in the "downpipe" as you may call it, a small divider for the cat, that is molten too so it doesn't take that much heat for metal to melt in your exhaust, I would be very carefull with those liners and I would remove them just to be on the safe side (you know, metal liner debris in exhaust, destroys turbo, metal turbo debris in intake, destroy freshly rebuild engine...)

if the exhaust liners are meant to be red hot during operation, and you are planning on running more than standard boost (and thus more heat in the exhaust) wouldn't you run the risk of those liners falling apart? I mean, they are getting a lot hotter then they are meant to get. (is this proper english? it seems strange but I don't know why?)

mmm the ghetto tail light perfectly fits in this picture I bet it is cool though inside the car :-p

guy-wires? don't you mean guide-wires? and another thing, am I reading correctly that you're going to re-route some of the weight on the hitch to your roof? I am sorry, but sounds like a stupid plan, don't overload a hitch or your car, that is asking for trouble

sadly, they do this all the time here in the netherlands, more than a dozen people have died over the course of 1 year as a result from this "vandalism" so I always watch the overpasses for people. as for the window, for the time being you could just stick on a piece of lexan, for a long term solution... it may be very expensive, but if you have no other options, I know that certain companies can reproduce a window in the exact same shape in polycarbonate or any other transparant plastic, they usually do this for racing applications, worth checking out anyway.

it depends on which model (USDM/JDM/EDM) he has, if it's an EDM he should be boosting to 0,7/0,8 bar

also check your ignition timing, if the timing is too far advanced and in combination with boost the engine will run lean/hot it should be 22 degrees @ 700rpm I believe

I've had a BMW E30 coil (bosch brand) in my XT turbo, seems to be working fine, noticed no difference over stock though (thought the stock one was broken), so the stocker went back in (ran it for over a month with the BMW one) I had to modify the cable from the coil to the dizzy but it fitted like a charm otherwise. I never measured resistence of the coil, so I recommend you do so before permanently fitting it in your subaru.

you're right, we use the metric system so there are probably another 5 cars or something with this thread, but finding them is the hard part :-\ as you say, junkyards don't really excist, we have "dismantlers" where you can "order" your parts and they collect it for you, no scrounging around or anything. the problem with finding someone who can search through his books is that there is noone I can think of, who has acces to the books of all the makes, in other words, I would have to visit the dealers from each make and then let them search through their catalogs or something nobody is willing to do this kind of stuff.... come to think of it, maybe... I know a company that specialises in rebuilding jap engines, perhaps they know something... I can ask, but I'm going to italy tomorrow for 10 days, so you'll have to be patient

disagree, don't destroy another XT, there are too little left :-\ and, to be honest, I think a wagon would perform equally well, especially if cages/lift can be added

please, don't show him pics/videos of a EJ-XT! j/k, if you want to see some, you should visit XT6.net, there are pictures of lazer (among others, he just pops to mind) of his XT with EJ20T, just do a search next time I have bundles of cash laying around I'm also going to get a EJ, but in the meantime I'll just cope with the EA82T :-p

I would guess I have a better chance at finding proper sized studs BUT, there is one slight (major) problem we don't even have 1/10 of the carshop you guys have, things like a mufflershop, import car parts, al those things, don't excist here, there are a couple of generic car parts stores, where you can buy the muffler for your 1995 VW golf, but that's it so sure, those studs excist, but there no chance in hell that I would actually find them

who cares what it looks like UNDER the interior pieces, it's fixed! just be sure to use lots and lots of sealants/bodycoat etc. because water is a real ***** and will creep in every nook and cranny and it WILL find it's way in

you don't have to drill out all of the old thread, as long as your new studs have the same thread as your old ones have, just make sure that it is 100% centered, but I guess since you're having a machinist do the work, that won't be a problem

yes, also put the clip back on

clutch and perhaps flywheel?

I seem to recall that heating the plastic will also turn it back to black, don't heat it with a flame, but with paint stripper style blowdryer :-p if you know what I mean. don't know this for sure though! so try it on some jy bumpers or perhaps on the inside or something.

they are super easy if you know what you are doing otherwise they are easy to screw up (thankfully, no damage can be done that way) all the info you'll need on installing them the right way can be found on this forum, do a search and all will be revealed :-p

my XT did the same thing when 1 of the cams was 180 degrees out, a mistake very easily (and very often!) made if push comes to shove and the engine is indeed shot, a replacement can't be that hard to find and/or expensive

if your exhaust is shot (has holes in it) it will make a popping/rumbling sound when you are braking on the motor.