joostvdw

I don't have these yet, but someone offered me them for a very reasonable price, I might just be tempted 14'' btw

what about the FT4WD D/R boxes that are in the RX?

+1 on the spade connector replacement, I "fixed" a legacy that way once

like sparkplugs for instance :-p (you knew you had that coming ) but like jeff said, perhaps the scrap from the filter got between the valves?

That's such a shame :-\ To be honest with you, I highly doubt it you could fix her. The leaking anti freeze is not of a big concern, but the leaking oil suggests that either the engine is badly damaged or the subframe shifted and mashed your oil pan. Either way, it's going to cost you a lot to fix. Also if you look at how far the fender is pushed in, I would be surprised if the frame rail is still straight'ish. So try to get as much from the insurance co. as possible and buy yourself another subie. Just be glad that the car took the most damage and not you.

I had a almost similar experience, I've been searching months for a stumble and checked everything once, twice, thrice except the timing belts, because a shop replaced them.... yes, you guessed it, one belt was 1,5 tooth off... after fixing that, it ran beautiful, and the fun thing is, all my other work wasn't useless, all the cleaning I did, new filters, re adjusting TPS and such, made the car run like new after the belts were properly installed so don't be too mad at yourself, atleast you know that the O2 sensor is working properly :-p

the humming noise could very well be your fuel pump, it's located between the rear wheels, it only should humm once when the ignition is on, unless the green test connectors are connected as for the air struts, it could be that someone converted the car to regular shocks and unplugged all air suspension hardware

alright, so after reading that and nosing around for a bit, I found out that our euro 98 (RON) is comparible to your 93 (AKI)

tried to weld a round bar to it?

I can get euro 95 or euro 98, but I have no idea how that relates to your system of gas ratings euro 98 (that's what I run in the XT) costs me about $7,20/gallon and with a car running 19mpg, you do the math

I think your RV is huuge anyway, paint on the brat looks good too, you might want to consider painting the cover too instead of leaving it white

sounds like the rear trailing arms bushing are dryed out, try shooting some lubricant on them and see if the noise disappears, if there is no real play in the bushings and you can live with the noise, you don't have to replace them, just put some WD40 or anyother lubricant on them once in a while

well I guess you're absolutely sure now that you won't loose your exhaust the method described by glfarnes will also work, but it's kinda destructive, but if that's the way to go then that's the way to go...

what've you been smoking/drinking? you make no sense

I haven't read it in any books or FSM's, but I have read it several times on xt6.net and usmb.org and heard it from some old subie techs, so I guess there is some truth in it on the other hand, it can't do any harm to leave it unplugged for an hour or so (I didn't say or mean hourS, 1 is enough)

your ECU needs about 1 hour to fully reset! so leave the batt cable off and go watch some TV after you've reset the computer, go have some fun, the ECU needs to learn the values (and most importantly, the extremes) of the sensors to fully and correctly control the injection system, after a bit of driving you'll notice it running smoother also getting everything up to operating temp isn't a bad thing either, the old O2 sensor may need some time to "restart" so to speak, the engine will need some time to burn out all the crap that settled there when it wasn't running right. so fill er up (that's where the $65 is going ) and enjoy the ride!

you can always try to good ol' torch too heat em up, that usually does the trick something else to consider if you have a welder, weld a piece of metal on the nut, the heat will work it a bit and the metal rod will give you plenty of swing to remove them if you don't have stuff like that, maybe you can try a "nutsplitter", I don't know for sure what they are called on your side of the pond, but I DO know for sure they excist and that they work pretty well.

you know you shouldn't drink and drive

yes, the air suspension computer is under the carpet under the drivers seat, towards the door, it's about 2 packs of smokes, fairly big

you have to be carefull when pulling of the masking tape, if you wait too long you'll "rip" the paint on the edges and it will be a ragged edge (NOT what you want) doo it too soon and you might pull some layers of paint with it too bad I can't tell you exactly when too pull it off, just be carefull... if it all goes wrong, wait a week, sand it down with very light wet sandpaper and then clear coat it, you might get away with it.

in the FSM it says to mount the PP with the markings more than 120 degrees rotated compared to the 0 mark on the flywheel I couldn't find either so I just put it on and never had a problem..

just go to a toyota dealer and get some exhaust studs and nuts there, it's the exact same diameter and pitch as subies (M10x1.25) and won't cost you an arm and a leg just don't screw around with american sizes in there get the proper bolts or don't bother at all.

nope, the 87,5 and higher don't have more room, they share the bumper (and mine also has the headlight washers) but they still have the straight XT4 rad support you definately need to modify it liek the XT6 one, huck has proven that a EG33 WILL fit in a XT6 without extensive modding of the frame and/or body (it will be a tight fit though)

HLA's arent' expensive! in fact, they are dirt cheap, like $5 per lifter, don't know the name of the company selling them, but someone is bound to show up with the link

hitting the valves is one of your least problems, it's an non-interference engine so you can change ALOT before you hit the valves