joostvdw

nope, that's with no cat, a small centre muffler/resonator (don't know the difference really but it's about the size of a 2l cola bottle) and a rear muffler but, all the mufflers are see-through, if you get what I mean.

always wanted to quote myself here it is! small .mp3 file in a .zip MOV01597.zip

I have a 11mb video clip of my XT turbo with 2,5 inch open exhaust, I will try to rip the audio out of it, the sound may not be perfectly realistic, but it will give you some idea

I removed my lower control arm just recently on my XT because I had to replace a ball joint, and to be honest, it was a breeze, you will need to buy 1 special tool, a balljoint remover, which will cost you roughly $20, it looks like a big pitch fork :-p but it works like a charm. It's only 4 bolts (subframe, 2 from the leading rod, front stabi) and the balljoint, even with home mechanic tools it can be done laying on your back. you do want to jack it up and remove the wheel though, I didn't and I can't say that was very smart

since we're more or less discussing LSD's here, what will I notice if I mount one on my FT4WD XT? Of course, I don't off-road it and I don't rally it either, only street-driving. Will I notice anything at all? I am known for my "sporty" driving though

yeah you're right, in europe the XT's standard came with 13" steelies, those 14" were an luxury option and thus very few people got them I know a set here in Holland, but the guy won't sell :-\

those wheels came on the XT turbo in europe, don't know about the states, they were optional 14" alloys

there you go, hope this clears things up a bit

I have a ft4wd tranny in the shed and will take some picture after I get the hub-pin (or whatever you may call it) out of the hub...

I think I have found a XT turbo two-row rad :banana: oh yeah, this is the first time I needed parts and could just find one at the first radiator shop (oke oke, second ) I rang. It's about 180euro's which is $230 or something like that, sounds reasonable?

hey, I currently have a single row radiator in my XT turbo and I need a replacement. The only replacement I have found so far is a Loyale radiator, so does that fit? And, what models were standard equipped with a dual row radiator?

I don't think that an increased oil flow over the diff will do any harm, but the decrease in oil on the bottom MAY do some harm, IMO you won't really notice anything, this is probably one of those things FHI invented to increase life-span from 150k to 200k or make it more economical or something not really something to be bothered with

sounds like brake master cilinder to me too, since it's vacuum operated and your engine stalls when you brake, seems logical to me you could unplug the vacuumline to the brakebooster and then see if you car stalls if you brake, if it doesn't (you have to close the line!) the master cilinder is the problem

also, does your horn work? the ECU shares a fuse with the horn, so that's a quick and dirty trick

I believe the harmonic balancer, is actually a dampener, to dampen the shocks from the engaging AC compressor to the crankshaft. the reason why NA ea82 don't have them, I don't know, perhaps you looked at a non AC?

how about measuring the new ball joint and THEN drilling the control arm to the correct size? you don't want to screw this up because it is sort of important

I'm not really a neighboring country but still wanted to say something... you can buy cars here from the yunkyard, they don't care as long as they make money from it, but you can't drive them on the road legit, because they're registered as junked and the plates (and corresponding paperwork) have been destroyed. So the only reason someone would do that, is for a parts car that you can put on your own property. I some occasions, if you're quick enough though you can buy the car with the plates and paperwork, because the junkyards get the titles, so as long as they don't destroy them, you can buy the car legit.

or european, L-series in fact, I've heard many names for the same car, L1 and L2, L-series, leone1 and leone2, the names here, loyale, gen1 and so on, and of course the AU members call them brumby, vortex and what not

can't you just bend the bracket out of the way? your already going to have to fab something for the e-brake cables so I don't think this would be much of a problem?

this sounds like the carb isn't getting enough fuel to run the main jet and you keep it running on the choke, soo, check the fuel pump (perhaps swap it with a known good one?) and the pressure regulator. Oh and don't forget, fuel filter, easiest fix.

if you want to do a quick a dirty check on the oil, hold a lighter under your dipstick (once you have removed it ofcourse ) if there is any water in the oil, it will sputter and crackle, if it's clean, you won't hear a thing (and might burn your fingers...) and before you change your headgaskets, be sure to check the intake gaskets, I totally agree with daeron on that, those ***** leak for no particular reason and cause headgasket'like symptoms. Use OEM intake gaskets only btw.

I'm currently running GTX magnatec which claims to have magnetic additives which cling to the cilinder walls and protect during cold starts... only thing I have noticed was TOD were it wasn't before :-\ so my advice on oil, stay away from additives and just use good mineral oil. I did however tried a additive in my tranny, because it was very rough and noisy (bearing going out), 1000km later, the tranny shifts noticebly smoother but the bearing only got louder and I think I would have gotten the same result with running ATF in it...

My point is that the cams have to turn the same speed in correlation to the crankshaft, so it's all about speed and ratio's, length of the belts don't have anyhting to do with that. As long as the ribs on the pully's are the same (ratio's on both cams) they will spin the same speed. but apparently the sprockets on the crank are slightly misaligned, so that has to have a reason, the only thing I could think of was that the cilinders don't fire batch but 1 at a time, so 1 cam has to be timed slightly different from the other to make sure the valves open at exactly the correct moment. sorry if I don't make sense, it's still kinda foggy in my head and english is of course not my native language.

that's what I said right? the cams have to be timed different and they solved that by changing the cracksprockets. at least that's what I meant :-\ anyway, looking forward to your findings, I've been tracing a stumble for ages now and this could be it...

let me get this straight, I assume the cam sprockets are the same diameter and have the same amount of teeth, they both have to turn at the same speed ratio to the crankshaft, so if the teeth on the camshafts are equal, the teeth on the crankshaft have to be equal too, then you can vary the length of the timing belts all you want, if the teeth ratio (crankshaft/camshaft) stays the same so the sprockets on the crank should be the same.... and they're not. the difference has to be the timing of the 2 camshafts, the cilinders fire after each other so the timing of the cams has to differ the time the rotor takes to reach the other contact point in the cap. that's not much, but to have your motor running perfect, you have to consider this in the camshaft timing, it is very likely that subaru made the cams and sprockets the same and decided that they would create this timing difference by placing the keyway in the sprockets at a different place, so question remains that we don't know which sprockets goes first, but atleast we know why they differ. it would be possible for someone with the proper tools and a open block to measure and find out which sprockets goes where, but it would be a tedious job.