joostvdw

thanks for the offer! but hopefully I won't need them for a while I've got them today and installed them right away, removing the uppipe was a breeze, you just have to jack the car up real high (like, subaru jack with about 1" thick chunk of wood under it at full stretch) I've been driving around for a bit and by the sound of things, it's not leaking anymore, let's just hope that it stays this way the subaru gaskets had a lot more contact surface and I'm positive that they are way better than the aftermarket I had. thanks for the advice everybody!

i'm trying to fix this right now on my resistor block, the middle one is broken, but the other ones read massive amounts of resistance, like, 1.1Mohms and stuff :-\ what the hell is wrong here? does anyone know the resistance values for all three coils? then I can just replace them with normal resistors and be done with it...

how about a update? pleased with the handling? (I sure hope so )

alright, I've just ordered some through the dealer, and they were about $23 or something... $3, yeah right resistor block for the blower motor was $35 btw, is that oke?

135hp? that shouldn't be too hard, my car puts out 136hp stock, with a bigger exhaust that should come close to 140hp? unless you're talking whp, then I'll just shut up

that entire back end thing was hypothetical but you get what I mean. that kit from crossbredperformance doesn't look that bad, it's only 600 euro's... I do btw have 15" inch alloys, so I'm still going to have a look, I'll probably find out what you guys already know but I want to see it with my own 2 eyes. thanks for the info anyway!

yeah, that right, $3 but since I live in europe I will have to go bother the parts manager at my local subaru dealership again, although the gaskets I put in were all metal with metal ring inserts (!) so they ought be fine

hmm, and you couldn't possible convert the EA hubs to the over-the-lugs-style of the EJ series? in the rear I would keep the original XT discs with 200sx calipers for the e-brake, because I knew about the mini-ebrake-drum you have to realise it is probably cheaper and easier for me to do a lot of machine work than to have the entire back end from a XT6 shipped here.

I have been thinking for a bit, and if I were ever to swap a EJ20T into my XT turbo, I would like the braking upgraded, since going 5 lug is almost impossible (due to parts availability), and since the spline count is already sorted, I would like to keep the 4x140 pattern (and thus my current hubs, rims, axles) so, could I just redrill the WRX front discs for the EA pattern, and perhaps mount WRX calipers at the front, 200sx (for the handbrake) at the rear? that should solve the brake problems right?

I torque them down by feel and use some non-subaru (there not meant for a subaru, just went to the parts store and asked for "something-like-this") gaskets, OEM subaru gaskets are probably a pain to get, long order time and way too expensive. I just thought of something, maybe I could weld on the sides of the flanges, so that they are wider, possible weld in some bushes so that it is 4 bolt, that should solve my problems.

the passenger side exhaust gasket keeps leaking, this is what I've been through: - replaced the gasket, leaked after 3 weeks, - then replaced the gasket again with some firegum (malleble gasket or something, don't know the correct english term), started leaking after 3 weeks, - last time I took off the entire manifold, filed the mating surfaces down to make sure they were 100% flat, again new gaskets, malleble stuff, and now, after 2 months, AGAIN, leaking it's constantly blowing between the head and header between or through the gasket, it's a near stock ea82t, and so is the manifold/uppipe, no cracks, tears, welds, whatever could I make the flange into a 4 bolt instead of 2 bolt?

Since we're discussing struts here, let me hijack for a bit I'm also going to change front struts on my FT4WD XT, and I also want it to sit a little lower, so FWD XT struts are still the way to go? Year doesn't matter? And can someone measure their springs for me? I can't find a complete strut here, so I have to compose them myself, shocks are not so hard to find, but springs/top hats are a whole different story...

just think of it this way, there are always people worse of, think of marcelo (3 XT's in his country, he owns all 3), think of me (9 XT's in the country, perhaps 4 daily driven), I've been searching for suspension parts for the last year, and the only thing I've got to show for it are NOS koni shocks for the rear. you don't have it half that bad

I assume your steering rack is tightened properly? and it didn't have this problem before lift right?

it's a real bummer to have something like this happen after all the work, glad to hear your okay... if you would really like to, you could cut the front clip off and weld a new one in, guess the frame rails and such are still intact, but I guess finding a new suub is way easier

the noise you're hearing are probably the HLA, (hydraulic lash adjusters) and they can make noise if they're dirty of when the oil pump sucks in air through the gasket, a very common and easy to fix problem. please use the search "TOD" of "tick of death" that should yield you a couple of topics, and I even believe there was a recent one...

is it SPFI/MPFI/turbo? pre 88? after 88?

because you can't torque them down with the original headbolts and ARP studs run into $700 region, so no, not really a viable option (unless he has money to burn?)

If you run into a problem with smog testing, you could always turn down the mixture: if you have a carbed engine, that's easy, is you have MPFI, also easy, on the MAF sensor, there is a white flatheadscrew looking thingy, on the front, next to the big connector, using a forked screwdriver, you can turn this in or out, that will adjust your mixture just set it lean for the smog test, remember the number of turns, when you've passed it, turn it up again and you're golden, just make sure that the car runs, just

my '88 XT turbo has FT4WD and center diff lock, maybe that's somethin that came with the 87,5 face lift session?

what do you think of a turbocharged flat-8 with desmodromic 4-valve heads? think that would be the ultimate engine, of course coupled to a AWD STI drivetrain in my fully restored wide body XT, mmmm

and THAT you can lock too! the wonders of subaru atleast, on a XT you can :-\

I have the same problem with my 88 XT (position 1 & 2 not working) but I do have a solution, maybe a bit daft but hey in the RC world there are variable motor controllers, ranging from 10A to 40A, If you would use the 20A/12V series, you can variable control the blower motor then add a simple 555 schematic to generate the correct pulse width modulated signal to control the controller and by using the original switch with 4 smaller resistor you can in turn control the 555 schematic to turn the motor to 4 preset speeds, or you can add a potentiometer (rheostat) and control the speed variable as I said, this may be a bit over engineered, but it will work and it will be exactly what you want, costs +-$40 depending on you skills and available parts...

nobody knows?

hey all, I know WJM has fitted imp/leg camber plates, but does this lower the car? and can you use the original air struts? I ask this because I want to lower the XT but keep the air susp, rears is easy, but fronts are a bit tough to figure out...