joostvdw

you really should continue in your other thread, this will keep things easier to follow for us you can ask a moderator (via PM) if he/she (do we have female moderators here?) can merge the 2 topics As for helping you with your problems, we really need to know what kind of performace parts you put on, parts numbers, brands, anything you know. As the common consensus is that performance parts for these cars do not exist, so you very well may have something that is not meant for your car/engine.

europe also got DR EJ trannies, just FYI

looking nice (Y) have you decided yet what you are going to do for fueling this beast?

The kids with the trash cans could be the hydraulic lash adjusters, or what you might call, lifters. Was the car parked for a reasonable amount of time? I ask because these lifters need to pressurize and fill up with oil. Also running some sea-foam (or other engine cleaner) through the oil could help (the lifters may be stuck or dirty) as for the injectors, I'm still puzzled with what type you put in it :-\ maybe some pictures will enlighten me?

You said you put in performance injectors and lifters? What kind of lifters/injectors did you exactly put in it? If it ran fine before you did these mods, it's obvious, switch back to the original parts.

I believe the part you're referring to is called a transmission mount. good job on fixing the wagon and very nice of the dealer to give you a discount

I was told that if the PCV valve rattles if you shake it (meaning the valve is free to move) then it's oke. Just spray it down with carb/brake cleaner or soak it over night if it's real bad. No need to spend $20 there.

Nobody said that, so don't be a smartass, we don't like them here. The parts manufactured for subaru are far superior in quality than some of the aftermarket parts now available. That's why "we" recommend certain parts to be OEM only.

My 88 XT (I'm guessing it's the same for your car) has a switch on the latch in the trunk, just flip it and it's key operated only.

I have one thing to add to this discussion, Don't put a HID kit into old halogen lenses, these old lenses diffract the high intensity light too much and WILL blind oncoming traffic, even when they are aimed to the ground (!) Only use clear lenses with a proper reflector as a base for the HID kits. In the Netherlands (and I believe actually in all of europe) factory HID equipped cars must ignite them facing downwards (ignition on HID is a lot brighter than normal operation) to avoid blinding oncoming traffic. That's one of the reasons aftermarket HID kits are illegal, and I think that's a good thing. The roads here a lit enough to almost not need headlights

why do you call this "euro" spec lights? it's not like all cars in europe have these lights or something it's just a clear lense assembly

If the piston tops are black from carbon, there is no coolant in the cilinders, so you are right assuming the HG is oke (unless there is increased pressure in the cooling system, but you didn't say so) I know the EA82s are more prone to head cracking and in the exhaust port in particular, this can be repaired by a proper machine shop, but it might be easier/cheaper to find a replacement. Look into the exhaust port and look closely at the splitter between the 2 cilinders.

I think that the only thing you'll need to keep it running cool is a big good quality rad, and even that might not be neccessary. I've driven my XT turbo for extended periods (30mins atleast) at 125mph and the temp gauge never moved over 50% that was with a new single core rad and new OEM thermostat. We all know turbos get very hot and thus so will the coolant. Since yours is NA you would be fine with a stock two core, BUT since it has to be reliable in very high temperatures, I would play it safe and put a bigger one in, just to be sure.

maybe you van extend the seat reals and make something like a gurney-bubble only behind the drivers seat, this will allow you to put your seat further back without mayor structural changes again, I don't know anything about the brat's structure, so this may not be possible

the problem is that he could be running dangerously lean on old HGs buy/use a boost gauge so we know what kind of boost he is talking about, we can't help you any further without this knowledge just an FYI the EDM version of the EA82T has the vacuum line to the wastegate actuator directly on the manifold, no solenoid or WGDS as it is called in the picture.

the fact that the heat is rpm related leads me to suspect the water pump, the fins can be corroded and thus not pumping enough coolant around for the engine to stay cool in traffic

I worked for a bit at a road service company (the people you call when your car breaks down) and one of the things I learned there is how to fix coolant hoses on the fly first, wrap self vulcanising tape tightly around the rip/gap/hose, warm it with your hand and mold it into 1 piece, then tightly wrap electrical tape over it, lastly, wrap duct-tape over it, the different types of tape work together, just like reinforced concrete and this will hold for several 100 km's just don't use it on new BMWs, their cooling systems runs at 7 bar

I agree with everything except this, I have a trip computer in my non-digi dash XT and only the "range" button doesn't work (as you said, fuel sender is incorrect) it was just a matter of figuring out where 5 wires went and with the FSM that's not hard at all

you did say your front axles were replaced in the last couple thousand miles, with what brand did you replace them? NAPA axles and the like are known to sometimes fail unexplainable within the first few miles. Some people never have any problems, some people constantly bring them back for replacements, so check them out.

if you won't be able to lengthen the cab, you could lengthen the whole vehicle by cutting the brat in half and welding in the cabin pieces of another brat (or perhaps a wagon/sedan, don't know if those pieces differ) of course, if not done correctly the car will still be unsafe

same here :-p but this wasn't quite accidental right? oh and WTLW is an acronym which means "welcome to last week" meaning, the news/fact/info you are posting has already been posted in the last couple of days/weeks

that's exactly what I was thinking a while ago, but nobody listened It shoudnt be too hard with a couple of quite simple electronics.

your clutch may need to be readjusted, since it's a very new clutch things need to settle down properly

are you going to weld new brackets for the wastegate actuator? or do you have other plans

If you have a bigger AFM, its just a matter of remapping thet UAFC thingy for the new flow of air (with a wideband preferrably) and you'll be good to go