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jamal

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Everything posted by jamal

  1. if you throw in the FWD fuse it should work fine. Well, as far as I know but I don't think I've ever tried to go over 50 mph with it. This all assumes it's a non-vtd car.
  2. I don't think they need a TSB that says "if your alignment is out of spec it will wear out tires"
  3. Not having zero toe. Which is the response in pretty much all of the threads that come up in your search.
  4. Well, apparently it does sometimes. How well and for how long is not something I would want to find out first hand. Similar products to what you linked are available for a subaru. Like this.
  5. Without a rear drive shaft you are relying on the viscous coupling to make the car move. If it were not for the VC, the center diff would be open and you would just spin the rear output and not go anywhere. So all that is sending power to the front are small plates that may or may not stay stuck together and were not intended to transfer 100% of the car's power.
  6. No, you are going in a straight line so the front and rear should be turning the same speed. If all the tires are not the same and/or the pressures are way off then it could cause a problem. Normally the VC doesn't react until there is around a 100rpm difference between the front and the rear, at which point it provides about 28 lb-ft of resistance. What the curve looks like or where it goes from there I can't tell you, but it normally cannot transfer all of the engine's power and I would not rely on it to do so, even if it is "binding" and the car moves without a prop shaft. Nearly all 5-speeds have the same coupling, and Subaru makes a couple that are stronger for rally use.
  7. Even lowered to the point of max negative camber in the curve you'd be lucky to see -2 with the stock bolts. With 0 toe that isn't enough to cause uneven wear, especially with such low miles and especially if you go around corners with any frequency. An STi, for example, sees camber angles of +3 degrees or more in a hard corner on the outside wheel. Any other Subaru is worse.
  8. It definitely seems that your toe is not zeroed out. At pep-boys they have a 6-month 6000 mile warranty on the alignment. Take it back and at the very least they'll straighten it out for you. I doubt they'll give you a free set of tires but it won't hurt to complain and push for that.
  9. you can use your rear strut tops and it will not sag in the rear. However you will have nearly a degree less negative camber because the 02+ sedans have a wider track. What that means is you essentially have positive negative camber so the car will handle like crap and wear off the outsides of your tires. Just get a set of gr2's on ebay for like $200 and you won't have any problems.
  10. I don't suppose we'll be seeing those kind of discounts on 98-01 RS wheels.
  11. importrp.com and wrxbrakes (http://wrxbrakes.knsbrakes.com/) are both well known vendors. Otherwise autozone has pretty cheap and straight rotors. Hawk HPS and Axxis Ultimate are both reasonably priced ceramic pads that I have used and liked. They're a bit dusty but handle hotter temperatures than oem.
  12. Well, any size will fit in there. I'd just need to find another dash pocket or something to fill the space. My itrip wedges into that 0.5 din space below the deck very nicely and I've been meaning to make a little surround out of some scrap black delrin at work. Skip, I got the keychain on another forum a few years ago when I guy was selling them to sponsor his targa newfoundland rally car. It's also a bottle opener.
  13. uh, yeah, no thanks. I'm not really a fan of the random no-name e-bay products. I mentioned the alpine decks because they will control the ipod.
  14. I have no complaints, and it's great to just be able to load it up and not mess with CDs for a week or when I'm on a trip. I need some new front speakers but it sounds fine out of the rear, and I still need to redo the ground. I would also rather have a black changer with a tape deck out of an 02-03 because it would match the interior a little better. I've been thinking about trying to trade someone, but I have an ipod, and my FM transmitter doesn't work well in the city so I'll probably get one of those fancy alpine decks one of these days.
  15. You can pick up a WRX 6-disc changer on the cheap ($40-80). The only problem is that the harnesses are different so you will have to buy a reverse harness for you car, a harness for the changer, and wire them together. If you get the one David Carter sells (svxdc), it has the extra illumination wire that is needed for the dimmer. Most aftermarket radios and harnesses do not have this and will be full bright all the time. This should help: http://jamalb.net/carsite/cdchanger.htm
  16. I have an 05 WRX cd changer and since I lost my cd case I've almost exclusively played burned cds.
  17. host them on something like imageshack or picasa web albums or something and then insert the direct link to the picture in tags. Keep them under 800 pixels wide unless they're thumbnailed. FAQs ftw: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/misc.php?do=bbcode
  18. Here is my mostly complete listing of the brakes on all the newer Subarus. The nice thing is that they are pretty much all interchangeable. The way things work is that there is a caliper, and a caliper bracket. The caliper bracket bolts to the front knuckle or rear backing plate, and the caliper bolts to the bracket. The rear backing plates are pressed into the spindle, and there are drum, disc, and 2-pot varieties, and 2wd rear disc backing plates are probably different as well. The fixed calipers, ie STi brembos and Subaru 4/2-pots, do not use brackets because they are not necessary and instead bolt directly to the backing plate or spindle. Most newer (~98+) calipers and brackets are interchangeable (meaning you can just get WRX brackets and rotors to upgrade an RS or Outback, for example). As I mentioned, the 2-pot Subaru and Brembo rear brakes use a different backing plate, and Kartboy makes adapter brackets for them. So, in conclusion, you can pretty much put any set of Subaru brakes on any other Subaru with very little hassle. Before "upgrading" it is important to keep in mind that many combinations will create a less than optimal brake bias and increase stopping distances. Legacy777 made a great spreadsheet with a bias calculator that can be found on his website. Anyway here are most of the different brakes found on modern Subarus. The information came from a lot of places like the brembo catalog, cars101, and various threads/FAQs on nasioc and scoobymods. Front Brakes 242x16mm - Smallest Subaru front brakes, found on FWD non-abs Imprezas (93-96). The caliper brackets are similar to those for early 260mm brakes (just shorter) and they use the same pads and caliper. These things fit under 13" wheels. Applications: 93-96 Impreza 2WD. 260x22mm - This is the most common front rotor size before 2000. It was found on most Imprezas and Legacies and uses a single piston caliper and bracket. Somewhere between 1996 and 2000 the caliper design changed depending on model, so while the rotors and piston area are the same, old and new calipers do not interchange between brackets. These fit under 14" wheels. Applications: 90-99 Legacy non-turbo/-GT/-Outback 93-01 Impreza AWD (non RS) 276x24mm - This rotor uses a two piston sliding front caliper and was first put on the Legacy turbo. There are three caliper/bracket designs. One for the SS/TW, an early Legacy GT/Impreza RS bracket, and a later RS/WRX/GT bracket. Post ~97ish calipers are interchangeable between brackets, and will also exchange onto the bigger wrx brackets. I have also heard that you can even put the later 1-pot calipers on these brackets. They fit under 15" wheels. Applications: 91-94 Legacy turbo 96-02 Legacy GT/Outback 00-04 Legacy non-GT 98-01 Impreza RS 02-06 Impreza non-WRX/-STi 98-02 Forester 294x24mm- This is the WRX front rotor. It uses a two piston sliding front caliper or the Subaru fixed 4-pot. There are two sliding caliper bracket designs: One is the same as the 98-01RS, and the other started use sometime in 02/03 (varies depending on model). Calipers interchange between these two brackets. 16" wheels are usually required. The 4-pots do not fit under 16x6.5 Subaru wheels but will work with 16x7 RS wheels (and possibly some forester/outback 16s). Both of these will also fit under many 15" rally wheels. Applications: 02-04 Legacy GT, GT LTD 02+ Outback 02+ Impreza WRX 03+ Forester Baja 316x30mm- This uses a two piston sliding caliper similar to the other 2-pots, although brackets and calipers aren't compatible between other 2-pots. 17s are required with them. Applications: 05+ Legacy GT Tribeca (5x114.3 bolt pattern) 2008 WRX 326x30mm. STi rotor that goes with the 4-piston Brembo calipers. There are two rotors, the 04 has a 5x100mm hub bolt pattern, 05+ uses 5x114.3, although caliper mounting remains the same so you could use 05+ calipers on a 5x100 car with 04 rotors. There were some changes to the caliper over the years that involved some sort of stiffening, so from what I can tell an 07 caliper would be slightly better than an 04. Rear Brakes 266x10mm solid- this is the most common Subaru rear rotor. It uses a single piston sliding caliper, of which there are a few variations. 90-95 Legacy sedans have a smaller piston than wagons and turbos, and there are a few bracket/caliper revisions. Applications: 90-99 Legacies/Outbacks with rear discs non-turbo 93-03 Imprezas with rear discs 04+ non-Sti Imprezas 06+ non WRX or STi imprezas Foresters with rear discs Bajas probably I think this is on non-turbo 05+ Legacies, and 05+ Outbacks as well. 290x10mm solid- This is well known as the H6 rear rotor. The caliper is the same as the ~99-04 calipers so many people buy these rotors and the taller brackets for a cheap upgrade. Applications: 00-04 Legacy/Outback non-brighton 266x18mm vented- This is the Legacy turbo rear rotor. The caliper is similar to the other calipers but is wider to accommodate the vented rotors. It was also found on the ver1 WRX (93-94). Applications 91-94 Legacy turbo 290x18mm vented. This is a new rotor size for Subaru (in the US anyway). It uses either a 2-piston opposed caliper or a 1-pot slider. The 2-pot will not bolt up to other subarus without somthing like the Kartboy brackets or having a new backing plate pressed onto the spindle. There are two versions of this rotor in JDM land- one is for cars with an R180 rear diff which has bigger parking drums. Applications: 05+ Legacy GT (1-pot) 06-07 WRX (2-pot) 2008 WRX (1-pot) B9 Tribeca (1-pot 5x114.3) 316x20mm vented. STi brembos. Also requires some sort of an adapter bracket or a whole new rear end since the STi has an R180. Once again there are two rotors for the different STi hub bolt patterns. Applications 04+ STi Drums Some cars have 9" rear drums. Some of them are: Legacy and Impreza Brighton models, Some 95-99 Legacy L models, some foresters and I think 02+ Impreza TS and OBS. (I'm not sure exactly) To swap out drums, at the least you will need new parking brakes, backing plates, discs, calipers, and brake lines. It is usually best to get a whole knuckle/hub/parking brake assembly out of a car with rear discs. If you want to put rear discs on your front wheel drive Subaru, you might be better off getting parts from a 90-94 Legacy, since even the FWD versions had rear discs. Parking brake cables, to my knowledge, are not necessary. However the cables for a drum may be longer than discs. Installing rear Subaru 2-pots or Brembos on a non 2-pot car: The Subaru 2-pots will bolt to an STi Brembo backing plate and there are 290x18mm rotors with a bigger 190mm parking brake hat. This was primarily so rally cars can easily switch to 4/2-pot Subaru brakes for group N compliance and rally wheel clearance. In turn Brembos will bolt to an 06 wrx/Subaru 2-pot backing plate, but need a rotor with a 170mm parking brake hat (which is available from DBA). Here's a thread about fitting the brembos to other cars with the new Kartboy brackets and DBA rotors. They are for sale from places like fastwrx.com. There are also taller parking brake shoes available in Europe but they are expensive. Some D-plate numbers I should note that the caliper bracket, and not the caliper, is what determines pad shape. So while there are a few different pads and brackets, in some cases the calipers are exactly the same. For example, an 05 WRX caliper will bolt to a 99 RS bracket, even though the brackets and pads are different. Front 1-pots 1990-1995 Legacy: D470 1996-1999 Legacy: D722 1993-1996 Impreza: D470 1997-2001 Impreza: D722 Front 2-pots 1991-1994 Legacy Turbo: DB1219? 1996-2002 Legacy: D721 2002-2006 Legacy: D929 1998-01 Impreza RS: D 721 2002-2005 Impreza RS: D 929 1/2002-7/2002 WRX: D 721 8/2002-2005 WRX:: D 929 Rear 1-pots 1990-1999 Legacy: D1186 2000-2004 Legacy: D1379 or D770 (I think they're the same) 1993-1998 Impreza: D1186 1999-01 Impreza: D1379/ D770 2002 Impreza w/ rear discs: D1379/ D770 1/2002-10/2002 WRX: D1379/ D770 11/2002-2005 WRX: D1004 2003-2007 Impreza: D1004 2006-2007 WRX (and previous Black 4/2-pots) Front: D1170/D460 Rear: D461 STi Brembos Front: D 1001 Rear: D 961 I should probably put all the car/rotor/d-plate combinations in a spreadsheet or something. Outback should be the same as Legacy. I'll look into Forester and Baja stuff later I guess. There are a couple of things that I'm not clear on, like exatly when caliper/bracket designs changed between cars or which 00-04 Legacies got the 294mm front rotors. I might also be wrong about some of the forester front brakes. Also I've been meaning to add brembo or oem part numbers for the rotors or something like that.
  19. Yeah kind of old news. Wish I could find a video of Markko Martin going 187 feet in Finland.
  20. No, no, yes. Show me a rod that failed in tension due to engine braking. Actually, just show me a rod that failed in tension. It doesn't happen. Either the rod bearing stops working and things go crunch, or detonation occurs, causing a melted piston and/or rod bending. The throttle plate is closed on the intake stroke. I was going to do the math and calculate the tension in a rod assuming atmospheric pressure in the cylinder at tdc but don't really feel like doing that right now. A truck's compression brake will actually have sort of a reverse v-tec thing that actuates valves differently when it is turned on to create more engine braking. They even have engine braking horsepower ratings.
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