jamal

So the top part is stuck in the knuckle? here is a picture of a balljoint that is not very good because I took it with my phone: I got a used knuckle/hub/bearing in working order for $45 shipped from some junkyard in co after I did an online search. That balljoint was $28 from subarugenuineparts.com Maybe this weekend I will finally get around to installing them.

The pads will work either way. Just put them in however they fit best if they get in the way of the clips or something. Anti-squeal on the clips and shims is a good idea. I like the spray cans although that stuff seems a little thin for slide pins so get a packet of grease for that.

That has been done too. When my wheel bearing went out I just got a used knuckle/hub/bearing from a junkyard for $45 shipped so if all else failed you could just replace the whole thing.

The $10 flex handle did a good job for me. What kind of ratches are you breaking? Some 1/2 thing from autozone will probably break a lot easier than a higher quality (Craftsman and up) tool. And you don't have jackstands? Get some- a set like is $15 at Sears. Please don't tell me you're working on the car with the scissor jack.

I have an 18" flex handle and a big 32mm socket for axle nuts that I got at autozone. I couldn't get mine off by hand so I took off the center cap, rested the handle on a jackstand, and drove the car forward a bit.

I buy a lot of stuff from subarugenuineparts.com. They have the best prices I've seen.

Trying to make something else fit is generally a bad idea because of the aforementioned offset problem. If the center of the wheel isn't aligned with the center of the bearing, a moment develops and causes higher than normal forces on the bearing. It will also make rubbing on the strut or fender more likely. The nice thing is that most subarus have used the same hubs, bolt pattern, and offset for the last 17 years, so there are a lot of OEM and aftermarket wheels that are compatible between models. These are the ideal width-offset figures: Width .... Offset 6.5" ....... +53 to +55 7.0" ....... +50 to +53 7.5" ....... +47 to +50 8.0" ....... +43 to +47 Most Subaru 16" wheels are 6.5" wide. 98-01 RS wheels are 16x7.

WRX driveline swap = $7000 or so if someone else sources low mileage parts and puts it in for you. What they do is take a trashed wrx and swap the entire driveline, suspension, brakes, harness, dash etc. A company here in socal does it for $6500 parts+labor. $13000 for the STi swap, and that incudes the 6-speed, dccd, and brembos. You drop off the car with the money, and a few weeks later you have a WRX in an old school body. If you want to go that route, you might as well pick up an old impreza shell for a few hundred bucks and ship it to aerosim or something. Then you could have a WRX in the lighter, better looking GC body on the cheap. That's what I've always wanted to do anyway. Like everyone said, don't bother trying to make power with the n/a block. You can get a few hp with stuff like exhaust and cams, but to get an significant gains you'd want to change out the heads and pistons and run some sort of em. You can run a little boost on them but I don't think it's worth it.

Okay, back to the front wheels being on rollers. There is no resistance from the rollers, and therefore no force exerted by the rollers to the wheels. Newton's second law anyone? The force exerted by the front wheels is zero, therefore all the power goes to the back. Edit: 2nd law.

Imagine the front wheels are on rollers, the rear wheels are on the ground, and the center diff is locked. Are the front wheels going to do any work to move the car forward? no. Is the car going to move forward from the full power of the motor going to the rear wheels? yes. A locked diff can transfer all the power to one end whereas an open or lsd cannot.

Also, the STi and VDC or VTD or whatever Legacies can do a little better. The Legacy uses brakes on individual wheels to keep one side from spinning, and the STi has two LSDs and a center diff that can lock up and send nearly 100% of the power to the front or rear. they, along with the AT WRX, also have rearward bias. On pavement with the FWD fuse I was getting front wheel spin all over the place on pavement. With it out I don't notice unless I have it in D and it's pretty slippery.

so are you saying that this could happen with part-time 4wd? How?

What he probably saw was someone go into a corner too fast and lift off the throttle abruptly. That's a pretty good way to spin it regardless of drivetrain. VDC can brake individual wheels, but I don't see how it would randomly lock one up at high speed. I've driven much faster than 60 in the rain and haven't had any problems.

I think it explains it in the owner's manual. Mine shows how to replace most of the bulbs. The light cover probably just pops off.

it's attached to the airbox, and you have to be really careful. I used a q-tip rubbing alcohol, and I don't think it made a difference.

check out the nasioc conversion forum FAQ. The 2.2 block and internals are awesome, but they're getting harder to find and heads aren't that great for a whole lot more power from what I hear. An EJ20 is more than capable of 300hp. I think getting JDM motor with a complete harness would be your best bet unless you plan to use a standalone EM, which is expensive. I would avoid the TT motor for something that will fit in there more easily.

And stoptech is your friend for all brake-related questions. The white papers they have are awesome.

I would say yes. The thing that may differ is the up-pipe and how it mounts to the turbo. From an FAQ on nasioc:

I drilled a hole in the firewall right near the brake booster for my lights. I got one of those boxes of rubber grommets and then sealed it with silicon.

yeah, but anyway don't get that set. You cannot drive with those tires if you want the AWD to keep working. There is at least one decent set for sale in the SCIC classifieds at any time. And what pads/fluid do you have now?

yeah those are the wheels I have on my car right now. 02-05 WRX front and LGT rear are the biggest brakes that will fit under them. I hear the 06WRX 4-pots fit with a 3mm spacer up front. With that set you'll need new tires, as different tires wear and grip differently. Otherwise say goodbye to the center diff. $200 is a good price for a set with matching tires with good tread. Check the classifieds in the regional forums on nasioc to save money on shipping. The only Subaru wheels that don't fit are 05+ STi and SVX.

Before you do this, there are things you can do to improve the existing setup. A semi-metallic or ceramic pad will withstand much higher brake temperatures, and fresh fluid and stainless steel lines will improve the feel. It's best to put on good pads and flush the fluid, and if you stil run into brake fade (which I doubt will happen with street driving), get bigger brakes. I believe there are also some performance oriented brake shoes available for the rear. A single diaphram brake booster also does a lot to improve pedal feel (some Imprezas had them). Getting disc spindes is a good start because otherwise backing plates and whatnot need to be pressed out. Then you'll need to get new lines (I think just the soft ones though), and figure out something with the e-brake. I'm not sure how that's usually done. The e-brake is in a little drum inside the disc so you'll need all that stuff too. Oftentimes shops that build rally cars and stuff will sell entire rear-ends for pretty cheap. I would look into getting one of those because they're usually in good shape and will have everything you need. It would probably be less without the differential (which may or may not be the right ratio). As far as what you want to put on, something like the Impreza RS setup would be more than adequate I think. They use the standard rear brakes that most Subarus have (exceptions being the 06 WRX, STi, LGT, and 00-04 Legacies). For the front the RS brakes are something like 10.7" and use a two-piston caliper. I think they're the same brakes that are on most Outbacks, 2.5GT Legacies, and Foresters. I don't know what the bias is on a car with rear drums though. Legacy777 has a good brake math spreadsheet on his website that allows you to compare different brake combinations so check that out. Having all this extra piston area will increase pedal travel, which can only be fixed with a new master cylinder. I'm planning on putting big brakes on my car, but I currently have good pads and they withstand heat very well. With my old junky pep-boys pads I ran into fade quite often and had smoke pouring out of the wheels once. Now that I have a set of good pads I don't run into that much anymore so the big brake swap, which will run about $600 total, is on hold for awhile.

On top of the block pretty much right under the throttle body. Round sensor with a bolt through the middle. You'll need some crafty socket extension work to get it in/out.

Most Subarus have adjustable rear toe. My rear lateral link bolts are cammed. And yeah, it's definitely more of a toe issue than camber. You could run -3° of camber and not have that much wear if the toe was at 0.

So are you trying to die, or just hoping you'll blow a few tires in the middle of nowhere?