jamal

04 yes, 05+ no. It's not quite a direct swap for an Impreza (you need 90-91 Legacy rear tops) and the STi has a wider track which causes camber issues.

Find out how wide the wheel is. It's stamped on there somewhere. Tire rack shows the range of wheel sizes for the ASX as being 7-8.5 with 7.5 as the optimum. So, I guess if you have 17x7.5s, go with 225. if they're 17x7, 215. Generally, if the wheel is 7.5", you'd want a tread width of about 8.3 inches as wheel should be about 90% of the tread width. The ASX 215/45 tread is 8.4" wide, and the 225/45 is 8.7. ASX spec sheet The tread width varies between different tires with the same section, so you should check it out on tirerack or something before making a choice. Also I hear the ASXs are pretty good tires. I was going to buy some but just got a whole set of slightly used wheels and tires instead.

that doesn't make any sense because the toe/camber change depending on the bump/droop. They'd be way off at full droop. You want the car resting on the ground when it's aligned.

if it's knocking, the knock sensor code won't come up. The code means there is a problem with the sensor itself. The knock sensor is basically a microphone that listens for a specific sound that is probably knock. If it hears it, it changes the timing to stop the knocking. Also, sometime in the 90s the knock sensor design was improved because the clips tended to break. If your sensor has a grey connector it should probably be replaced anyway (new sensors have a white connector). My CEL didn't stay on but the car still hesitated. When I reset the ecu and cleared the codes, it popped back on for a second. Then I replaced the sensor and the car is back to normal.

Yep. This will cause the car to not run all that great because it pulls timing. I needed a new one awhile back and was getting some hesitation at anything more than light throttle off the line. My replacement was $48.18 from subarugenuineparts.com and it's easy enough to change if you have some ratchet extensions.

The back of the legacy wagon is heavy and it needs stiffer springs.

And 02-03 WRX springs fit 92-94 Legacies. I believe front upper perches are required as well. Also all 04-06 Impreza springs have the same fitment. The rates will be different. Especially in a Legacy. Legacy wagons have a much heavier rump roast than Imprezas. Stock rear Legacy wagons springs are something like 190 lb/in, whereas the Impreza wagon springs are only a bit stiffer than the sedan. One other thing I've heard is that the Impreza wagon has slightly taller springs. Also I would suggest getting Impreza wagon springs for a 1st gen legacy sedan. My 04 sedan springs are a little lower in the rear than I'd like, and the rates seem to be a bit better of a balance. Oh, and even if you put Impreza wagon springs on a Legacy wagon, it will ride a bit low in the rear.

M8x1.25 also make sure the parking brake is off.

although there are more flat, straight, and open freeways. I lived in Montana when there was no speed limit. it was neat. I'd say 140 would be easy and it would start getting harder towards 150. I just saw a hp/top speed chart for an STi too. I wonder where it went.

Heh, and the funny thing is that I mostly only hear bad things about EBC. well, I'll be sure to post a review when I put on axxis ultimates.

no, you can just get a kit to attach a bike carrier to the racks. Lots of them are out there, what you choose depends on budget, the bike, and whether or not you want to take off the front wheels. I have a thule V2, which I like, and it was $125. It can also carry a bike with disc brakes, some others don't.

You can't really get Mintex in the United States. You can get Axxis, which are pretty much the same thing: http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=26140 I have some ultimates that I'm looking forward to putting on eventually when I swap my brakes.

I had a bad knock sensor and my CEL would come on for a few seconds and then go out, and I was getting some strange hesitation from low RPM. When I replaced the sensor it went away. It's code 22 on an odb1 car by the way. Also my knock sensor was $48.18 from subarugenuineparts

http://autocolorlibrary.com/cgi-bin/search/searchpic.pl?1991-subaru-pg01.jpg oh it only goes up to 2002. I swear I've seen another place that had newer ones.

I definitely don't think the cross bars would make a significant difference. The only things I notice are that my ski racks make a lot of noise and my top speed drops a bit with the rack on. It could be a bunch of things, although I'm mainly thinking struts. A trashed bushing somewhere or loose tie rods would probably be more noticable in normal every day driving. Struts gradually wear out so you don't really notice. Then when you put on some new ones it's like "wow, this is awesome!" 60k miles is getting there for struts, and I'm guessing you have at least that.

A 90 Legacy is an ODB vehicle and you don't need a scan tool. There is one available though. All you need to do is connect the black plugs, turn the ignition to on, and the CEL will flash the codes. There are two sets of plugs and a port for a Subaru Select monitor. The black plugs are for simply pulling codes. The green plugs are for active diagnostics. You could also make one of these: http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=16219 Also, how hard is it to use some punctuation and check your spelling? This isn't pre-teen chat.

Ooooh nice I want some. Generally the n/a Subaru motors don't make a great base for added power. For that it's much easier to start off with a WRX. The suspension is a bit soft and could be a bit better balanced, so it's something you could do work to. For example, a set of 04 STi suspension, which you can get for like $500 slightly used, will swap right in. The struts are beefy, the springs are stiff, and it will lower the car a bit as well. The ride, however, is not very cushy. After that you're basically looking at higher-end coilovers. There is a pretty huge aftermarket for suspension, so you should do a lot of research into what exactly you want out of the car before you start buying stuff.

http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/search.php

ooh ouch. take the wires back and order some from SubieGal or something. I got some from her for $23.56. but, yeah, generally a misfire is bad.

A popular choice for struts is the KYB GR2. I recall it being something like $250 for all four. Struts are really easy to replace and I suggest picking up a Chiltons/Haynes manual if you just need something cheap. Then rent a spring compressor. If you have a basic metric tool set, a jack, jackstands, a breaker bar, and PB blaster you're pretty much all set.

the boot on the bad cv is most likely torn, so that would be a good way to check. There is a place I've seen advertised here that sells remanufactured axles, or you could get one from somewhere like subarugenuineparts.com. They're significantly less expensive than a dealer. Replacing the axle isn't all that difficult.

Maybe. ODBI you can check yourself. ODBII came out in 95 and requires a code reader.

The 1st gen Legacy set the first speed endurance record for Subaru and then there were a couple more. A turbo diesel Mercedes E-class recently set a new one. Legacy speed records: One Two Three Forester record The Subaru global site is awesome. wait, you bought what?

yeah unless you're going less than 20-30 the temperature in the engine bay isn't a whole lot higher than outside. It does stay a bit warmer behind the motor though.

And that's not getting into the negative effects you'll have with dynamic camber and toe. That low will cause problems for sure. Looks like the control arms and lateral links would be above level. Glad I'm not the only person not saying "dude that looks sweet" What is this, the members car gallery at nasioc?