jamal

I hope you're kidding

Maybe there's too much oil on the filter. I've heard it's fairly common. Also have you checked replaced the other obvious stuff like plugs, wires, and the fuel filter?

did you check the code? The directions on Legacy777's site should work for you. Connect the black connectors, turn the car to "ON," read the codes. Very simple. There's a chart here with them all listed.

I didn't ever say that it was easy. And actually I'm not finding many well documented RS -> WRX/STi swaps here. I found some pictures of your type-r, though. Please post some examples of swaps then. Yes Nasioc has a very high proportion of idiots, but here are a couple of well documented swaps that were linked to in that FAQ I posted: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=289335 http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=481465 http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=428172 http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=291801 http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=179534 I seem to still be the only person contributing any helpful information to the topic. Like I said, taking my car to aerosim or chaste auto or whatever, giving them $6000, and getting my car back two weeks later with a low mileage WRX motor and transmission and dash doesn't seem all that expensive. The dash, instruments, and hvac etc seem fit in a GC pretty well:

I have a hard time believing that if you are sitting in mud or something stuck and spinning all the tires that the clutches can put up with it. Doesn't the inline switch do the same thing as the tcu when it detects slippage? I was under the impression that the voltage varies from 12 to 0 or something like that and when it's at 0 the clutches are at full "lockup." In anycase it would be nice to be able to have it set at that when the selector isn't in 1st and I suppose I have some more reading to do.

gee the main point i was trying to get across is that it is possible and that it is easiest to swap the whole harness and dash. He should do more research before getting into such a project and that there is a whole subforum all about conversions on nasioc. I don't really think a $1000 93 impreza plus $6000 (which is what I was quoted for a swap into my legacy) is terribly expensive for what you're getting either. also when someone comes in here and is like "yeah i heard a rumor that an sti engine will fit in a 97 or so rs," it makes me think they could stand to do some searching and additional reading, to say the least.

there is no 97 2.5 RS. anyway, yes it fits and plently of people have done full swaps. Basically they take everything out of the STi, like the ecu, dash, brakes, suspension, etc, and swap it into the RS. Replacing the entire harness is much easier than trying to splice wires together. Plus an RS ecu wouldn't run an sti motor and you need all the dccd stuff. There is a company here in SoCal called aerosim that will take your car and do a full WRX swap for around $6500 and an STi swap for $13000. If you're serious about it I suggest to visit the conversions section of nasioc and do some searching. Here's the FAQ: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=386462

yes but the crankshaft is different. With a boxer the opposing pistons move in or out together. With a 180 degree vee the opposing pistons share the same throw of the crank so they move left or right together. Neat boxer gif: Oh haha you just posted that V

the center diff has clutch packs that can lock up to varying degrees. The lowest is sending 10% of power back, and it can lock up to the point where it sends 50% back. So even when it's sending as much as it can to the rear, there's still some slippage. That also allows it to turn without binding up and stuff. It's kind of wierd visualizing how 50-50 split works. If it were capable of sending 100% of power to the rear, it would be as if the center was locked and the fronts were on rollers or ice or something. In that case the rear wheels would obviously be the only ones doing any work to move the car. There are like 3 or 4 endwrench articles on the 4eat. Check them out.

I for Impreza. I kind of like the double L Legacy badges.

I would say that a Subaru is much less expesive to maintain than a Land Rover. They're not all that hard to work on, either.

the awd is the same as many other subarus. An automatic has clutch packs in the center diff which vary the split from 90-10 to I believe 45-55. It can't actually lock up, however. The front diff is open, the rear might be LSD.

There a couple of lift kits available, and you could have fiberglass fenders made. Then you could import a dual range transmission and at least put in some beefy LSDs. What's you budget?

hmm well I am not having any idle problems. I didn't look in there and notice any goo, I just thought a quick shot with tb cleaner might help.

It's pretty straightforward. Take off the plastic cover, loosen the hose clamp that attaches the intake to the throttle body with an 8mm socket, and spray some TB cleaner in. Oh boy that's a dirty engine bay. I used this stuff. You might accidentally pull out the pcv hoses so make sure they're attached after you put everything back together.

Is there a problem with posting non-USMB stuff? Ranger83 just posted this link regarding Subaru wheels and tires that I think should be here: Tires & Wheels FAQ

I bought some throttle body cleaner at autozone and just sprayed it in there. It took the gunk right off. I opened and closed it a bit to get both sides. I suppose I could have also taken a toothbrush or something to it. Be careful to not put in too much at a time, though. I had to crank my car for about ten seconds before it started.

I'm not calling you an idiot and all you had to do was mention that search seemed to be broken. The people who are regulars tend to get tired of answering the same questions over and over again. Ranger83 I'm posting that link in the sticky because it's awesome.

rust probably

04 sti wheels fit. 05-06 changed to a 5x114.3 bolt pattern. Also had you searched you would have found about 12 million threads where people asked the same thing.

93 Legacy Bridgestone Potenza RE-92 205/55-16. oooOOooO I'm totally flirting with death.

That happened to me once. boy was my face red as I cleaned oil up from all over the driveway.

hahahaha wow. I love that from the dealer, an iridium plug is $25. From NGK, it's $12. It costs me like $10 and 20 min to change my plugs. Does it take them an hour to take the plastic cover off or something? I know it must be harder with DOHC, but still, $300+ just seems absolutely ridiculous.

hmm... probably. You could try re-bedding the pads or sanding the rotors. Although if they're 170,000 mile rotors, they might just be a little too thin by now. The Outback and WRX have bigger but not thicker front rotors, so by getting WRX brackets and rotors you can have bigger brakes, although the 00-04 Legacy has decent brakes already. A lot of other Subaru owners (like me) take the rear brakes because they're the biggest discs short of STi brembos (06 WRX and LGT are the same diameter but vented). You can find front WRX brackets for less than $100, and the rotors aren't much more expensive.

That is correct. If they're shuddering, you most likely have hard spots in the rotors. Turning rotors won't get rid of them, so once it wears a bit the vibration comes back.