jamal

also they will either not fit because of the strut or rub on the fender if you go too far from what is recommended. I always see people asking "hey will these wheels fit?" and when they're told no, they put them on anyway. A week later they're complaining about how they rub.

"doe's?" iirc earlier 2.2s had HLAs and then sometime between 95 and 97 they went to the solid ones.

do you have a sunroof? I've heard there's some sort of a drain for it that can leak into the trunk.

I was under the impression that the 00+ Legacy/outback had a completely different rear suspension.

hi again. nope.

rotors don't usually "warp" per se. What tends to happen is pad material will be deposited unevenly from overheating the brakes. However, I would think that was much less likely to occur with better pads you're using. Here's what stoptech has to say about it.. I tend to agree, and they have some other very informative articles on brakes. If the above isn't the case, the rotor could get a bit warped if the lugs were tightened improperly, or it could be caused by improper pad bed-in.

if the ball joint still moves through its motion smoothly and the boot isn't cracked, try taking the ball joint out of the control arm instead.

haha that's ridiculous. I'm pretty sure all you need is a reverse harness for a WRX/most any other 93+ subaru, and a harness for your car. They're available at many places for around $5-12 each. Then you just need to match up the correct wires and solder (preferably) them together. The diagrams should be available at http://www.the12volt.com. The one problem you might have is getting the dimmer to work because some harnesses don't have both illumination wires. It was discussed a bit in this thread, which also has links to where you can buy the harnesses.

well if you were asking about early 90's legacies and imprezas, I'm assuming you have a limited budget and maybe a newer RS or WRX is a little too much. If you want potential for good power, you should start with something turbocharged from the factory if you don't want to do a swap. That leaves you with a 91-94 Legacy turbo if you want to spend less than 12k or more on a used wrx. The only complaints I have about my 93 Legacy AWD are that it's non-turbo and automatic.

They're 2-piston, right? Pretty much any legacy or impreza caliper from 97- or 98- on respectively will fit. Obvious exceptions are the STi, 06 WRX, and Legacy GT. What changed for 97/98 is the way the caliper attaches to the bracket. This picture shows the two different brackets (new style is the bottom bracket):

I wouldn't be surprised if they rubbed/didn't fit. There isn't a lot of room under the spring perch. The biggest tires I've heard of on a BC/BF are 225/40-17, with rolled fenders. Some other people have tried that size and rubbed, and a 215/40-18 is taller. I have stock WRX 205/55-16s with a 55 offset on my 93 Legacy. They're narrower and slightly shorter than a 215/40-18, and they rubbed slightly on the rear fenders before I put in camber bolts. If I rolled the fenders and had a little less +offset, I could probably fit a 225 easily, but my struts have more clearance that the stockers. On stock struts I only had about 10mm between the perch and the tire. Do you already have the 18s? can I suggest you go with 17s? A 17x7 with a 215/40 most likely won't rub, and you can get WRX and LGT take-offs on the cheap. Also it will probably be lighter. 18" just seems a little too big for those cars. How wide are the wheels?

word. Great fog lamps. They're like $60 a set or something. maybe searching here and nasioc and e-mailing susquehanna motorsports (rallylights.com) would come up with something. Otherwise you could probably get a replacement out of a junkyard or something for a lot less.

BOLD CAPS EXCLAMATION MARKS!!!! WRX came out in 02 in the US, although yes, those seats do fit. The one problem is that the 02+ Impreza seats will be higher up, so if you're tall, find something out of a pre-02 Impreza. The 98-01 Impreza RS had pretty nice seats that will bolt right in.

Well, warped rotors aren't actually warped. They have an uneven deposite of pad compound, which causes the vibration and hotspots on the rotor. These hotspots can cause parts of the cast iron rotor to turn to cementite, which has different abrasive properties. So, once this happens, even if you turn the rotor and get rid of the thickness variations, the vibration will come back. If the vibration is just starting, bedding in new pads can stop it. Improper installation and crappy rotors could be causes for actual warpage.

speaking of useful links, here's stoptech's explanation for "warped" rotors. The white papers have a lot of brake information.

NGK copper plugs are good and what I use. Also I have a purolator PCV and haven't noticed any problems (and hey, they make good filters). I don't think you have anything to worry about.

I was saying that because I don't really have enough power to pull that off. But, yes, I do need more camber. I'm sort of shopping for camber plates.

I'd just get lots of understeer... on pavement.

well, no. Using the throttle and countersteering tends to bring the car back in line better (unless you're only spinning the rear wheels). Even if the tires are sliding, they still have grip. The coefficient of friction of a locked/sliding tire is still about 70% of that of a rolling tire. Using the throttle is is going to create a force in the direction you want to go. Think of the tires as free body diagrams. If you're only countersteering, you have two lateral forces you're trying to balance out. Accelerating will create a force in the direction you want to go. How a car slides mostly depends on weight transfer. If the rear tires are sliding, you want more weight on them. Accelerating does this, giving them more grip. I've had my car in a slow slide where it continuted to rotate after I went to full opposite lock. Hitting the gas was the only thing to do to straighten it out. Why? because all four tires worked to pull me back in line, and weight shifted back onto the sliding rear wheels. Also as far as the pushing/pulling off of ice, I rather be pushed AND pulled.

ah hahahaha. Right, forgot about that. It's absolutely correct. Power to weight is key. Ditch the interior, A/C, carpet, spare tire, and all the crap in the trunk. And you can do a WRX driveline swap into pretty much any newer Subaru for around $6000. Aerosim in Costa Mesa will find the parts, do the work, and even put in the dash.

Duct tape racing strips and speed holes. Even with money, there isn't a whole lot you can do to make a non-turbo car any faster. It already breathes pretty well, but if you were to find some borla headers assuming you have dual port exhaust and had a shop fab up a bigger exhaust you could probably get a few more horsepower. If you shopped around and got the header used, you could probably do it for like $300. You could probably also get some delta cams, which I believe are $60 per side. That's about it for more power. The other thing you could improve is the handling and braking. There are always sets of used suspension, wheels/tires, and brake stuff from other subarus on the classifieds here and at nasioc, etc.

That's why I change my oil myself. If you buy Mobil 1 synthetic at a parts store it runs about $5 a quart. Add $10 for a Mobil 1 filter and you've spent $35 on what they're trying to charge you $75+ for. Crush washers are like $0.80 at the dealership. I use the new Mobil semi-synthetic stuff. Seems pretty good. They have two blends for 5000 or 7500 miles and it's not that expensive. I use the 7500 stuff because it has more sythetic in it but I don't really want to switch to full syn. Of course they would make that claim. That way people will change their oil every 3k miles, while you could probably go twice that with no problems. Nothing wrong with pennzoil 10-40. You could probably run 10-30. That would actually increase mileage slightly.

I've had my 93 Legacy for 6 years now and I'm up to 160k. Overall it's been fantastic. Lately I've started doing road rallies so I put on new wheels, new suspension, and some big lights (big brakes coming soon). I thought it handled decently before I put on the STi suspension and rear sway bar, and now it's amazing. I've driven it 90 for hours at a time, off roaded, jumped the car, and generally drive it very spiritedly. Although at the moment it's throwing codes so I'm going to have to replace a sensor or two. I suppose you can't expect that stuff to last forever.

Well, with too much power in a corner, FWD understeers, RWD oversteers, and AWD sort of goes sideways. If the back starts to come out and you're not already spinning the tires in a RWD car, more throttle is the best way to get it straight again. It shifts the weight to the rear tires giving them more traction, and in an AWD car you've got all four wheels trying to get the car going where it's pointed. Braking when the rear is loose, on the other hand, is bad. Weight shifts forward, off of the rear tires, and it starts to rotate faster. Even lifting off the throttle mid corner can initiate this. The one time I slid into a ditch, throttle would have kept me on the road.

Hotness. But, if it's a turbo, it's a 91. have you been to bbs.legacycentral.org? Hey I've been to quadra island. I have some distant family or something on cortez and we went out there when I was little.