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jamal

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Everything posted by jamal

  1. Heh, that's what I was going to post. I've always used pennzoil 10-30, and 10-40 sometimes when I'll be driving through the desert during the summer. I was at pepboys yesterday and they were out, so I decided to try some Mobil 1 semi-synthetic. I guess I'll see how that goes. I use Proline ProOne filters.
  2. I don't think there were any mechanical changes until 97, when they put in higher compression coated pistons and solid lifters, and the ECU went to OBDII in 96. I'm curious if the P/S pump is the same from 93 to 95. I'm sort of not right.
  3. That price is ridiculous. I don't think one in good condition would sell for more than $5000. This has also been discussed on legacycentral. http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=18102 I wonder if the seller has posted there before...:
  4. Ok, so $20. The Xtravisions are going to last more than twice as long as the cool blues, and they work better. But whatever, do what you want.
  5. The automatic shoulder belt doesn't work. It's in the up and locked position, though.
  6. Awesome. One of these days I'll put in relays. I cleared my lenses by wet sanding with fine grit and putting on some clear coat, and I have a set of Hella FF1000 driving lights on my bumper, so I've got pretty decent light output (I drive a 93 Legacy). I still wouldn't mind some foglamps and/or cornering lights, though.
  7. Is it really that hard to spend another $10 so you can see better and don't look like a ricer? Also, yes, yellow foglamps work well, but only in fog or heavy rain/snow, and clear fog bulbs are fine. Foglights shouldn't be used driving around normally because they put a bunch of light right in front of you, so you can't see as well farther down the road.
  8. Well, I took this picture, too: My favourite part about the 150k pic is the tripmeter.
  9. That was in 97, btw, and the higher compression pistons also have to do with it being an interference engine. If you're swapping engines, you would also want to use a 96+ engine because it's ODB II. Short of an engine swap, you're not going to be able to make much more power. There are a few places that will do a WRX driveline/brakes/suspension/dash swap for about $6500 (good condition used parts included). Aerosim in SoCal is one of them. Please, please, don't do a widebody kit, most of them look like crap unless you want to spend a lot of money, and do as little as possible to the exterior of the car aside from a set of nicer OEM Subaru wheels (used WRX wheels and tires run about $200-$250). Every thing else will look all ricey. I suppose 2.5RS bumpers and sideskirts wouldn't be too bad. I'd suggest putting in WRX wheels and suspension. It will make the car much more fun to drive, although it won't be any faster. You could probably find all the parts on the nasioc classifieds for around $500. The hardest part about installing them is renting a spring compressor to change the rear strut tops.
  10. Don't get cool blue. They aren't as good as clear bulbs, and in my opinion, it looks retarded. Get some Sylvania Xtra Visions. They're one of the best bulbs you can buy, and are half the price of silverstars. Also the silverstars or cool blues don't last very long, because they're overdriven in order to conform with DOT light output standards. I believe there's an explaination on danielsternlighting. It has to do with visible wavelengths of lights. Oh, here you go: http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bulbs/blue/bad/bad.html http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bulbs/blue/good/good.html
  11. Wow, that's a lot of miles in a pretty short time. Hey look what I just hit:
  12. I wonder if the 2.5 has any correlation with the 2.2. In 97, the 2.2 went to solid lifters (along with slightly different pistons). I'd bet the 96 2.5 had hydraulic lifters, but they went to solid in 97. E: According to an endwrench article I'm reading, only the "first versions" of the DOHC 2.5 had the solid lifters with shims, although it doesn't say which.
  13. I'm going to be upgrading the brakes on my 93 Legacy in the next month, so I've been doing a bit of reading on the subject. Looks to me like the caliper is the same for your car (pads are the same), the 00-04 Legacy 2.5GT, and WRX, so the only differece is the rotor and caliper bracket. The Legacy GT has the same front brakes as a WRX, so you could probably find a set of WRX brackets used on nasioc pretty easily. As far as rear brakes go, the 01-04 Outback has bigger discs, so you could do the same thing by getting a set of those brackets. You will need 16" wheels to clear them. The bigger rotor will provide more braking power and be more resistant to fade. Only upgrading the front or rear will change the brake bias, which could increase stopping distance (too far forward), and/or make the car unsafe (too far rearward). Just putting on front WRX brakes or rear H6 brakes probably isn't going to do that though. In fact, just putting on the bigger rears might help, as the rears can do about 30% of the work to stop a car, but are probably only really providing 20% of the braking force. Josh made a really nice spreadsheet comparing some Subaru brakes that you can probably find on his website. You might just want to find some good pads, though. They'll make a big difference. I'll be putting on WRX front brakes, Legacy wagon rear calipers (they have bigger pistons), and a wagon brake bias valve. I think it will still be a little more forward biased, but for the price of the parts used, I can't really beat it. I'd like to do the H6 rears, but it's a little expensive since I'd need calipers, rotors, and brackets. My rear rotors are still good, so I just need the rear calipers and bias valve, which I'm getting used for cheap, and I already have the front set.
  14. All that would work, but turbo blocks are stronger, and you won't be able to run much boost reliably. You'd be able to make more power for less using a 2.0 or 2.2 turbo block.
  15. This gets brought up pretty much every day, and you really can't do much to increase hp. Stock Subaru airboxes already flow pretty well, plus they draw cold air out of the fender. A cone filter on a CAI is going to be taking warmer air out of the engine bay. There's also a reason most hoodscoops are blocked off on cars without turbos and top mount intercoolers: water can damage electrical components. I believe there was even a recall on early outbacks to block off the scoops. Really, if you wanted to make a significant amout more power, you could run some sort of aftermarket managament, and change the compression and/or displacement with different heads/gaskets/pistons/rods, advance the timing and put on more aggresive cams, port and polish a bunch of stuff, and run a freer flowing exhaust. By then it'd probably be cheaper to do an engine swap from a WRX or something. Oh, and check out the search function.
  16. All you need is the right upper spring perches, I believe. And, as far as I know, the best way to get springs off and on is to remove the entire assembly and rent or buy a spring compressor. It usually works best to loosen the top nut before you uncompress the spring (but not remove it), unless you have an impact wrench or a pass-through socket.
  17. No. If you've got 3.9, you need another 3.9. I think some of the 91 Legacy turbos had 3.9 lsds. Otherwise you'll need to change the front, too, which takes a little more work. Mismatched front and rear diffs means the front and rear wheels will spin at different speeds.
  18. What did it take to fit them? Did you have to pound the bump in the tire well out of the way for the rear sway, and did the holes line up for the strut tower brace?
  19. My dad's car got hit my lightning when he was in college. I think all it did was blow out a headlight.
  20. I like my Thule stuff. It was expensive, though I expect it to last as long as the car. I was too poor to buy two V2s, and I only have one bike. Maybe I'll pick one up when I have time to get back into biking. The time three of us took my car to go riding we used my friend's trunk mount 2-bike carrier and mine. The only problem I had was a lock cylinder falling apart, probably because I didn't maintain it properly. The V2 is the newest fork-mount tray. Here's the best picture I have at the moment. And here's a bonus picture with the ski racks.
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