zyewdall

Where are you located? This one sounds a little beat up. Around here, there are usually about 5 or 6 gen one legacies for sale at any one time on Craigslist, so you can shop around a bit, and find a really good one for that price (or a beat up but still running one for $1000 or less). Auto's are usually a bit less because no one wants them here (though in the city, they're probably more).

Not sure on the interchangeability... however, 202k seems awfully low for a manual transmission to be having issues. Have you changed the fluid? Was there metal in the fluid when it was changed? I've never heard of the outback transmissions having early failure, so it just seems a little odd that they said it was worn out.

A compression test might show if it's a head gasket or an intake manifold gasket. Otherwise, it's not that hard to pull the intake manifold and check (though, if it's been leaking around the bolts, you run the risk of breaking off some manifold bolts that have rusted in place.... and then it becomes not an easy task to pull it and put it back on...) Z

yeah.. whatever, on Nasoic... I like this body style quite a bit, and have owned about 4 of them (two right now). Rust free is nice (I have one rust free one, and have owned a few rustbuckets...) The Loyale engine is the EA82 engine -- overhead cams instead of just overhead valves, so it has timing belts. A more powerful engine, but I believe it requires some hammering of the frame rails to fit in that car that had the narrower EA81 engine. everything else kind of just bolts up, depending on whether you wanted to swap over the fuel injection too -- then you have to transfer the wiring harness and computer and all. You could also just swap over the fuel injection and keep the same block as now. There's instructions for that on here somewhere. I wonder why it's so gutless? My 2wd 1982 wagon is pretty peppy -- much more so than the 4wd ones (lighter? different gear ratios?). The 3AT auto tranny probably has alot ot do with that... from what I hear, they really suck (I've never owned one).

yeah... that's kind of important, as it changes the answer... Is the second belt still driving the alternator, power steering pump, and water pump? If so, they you are good (till that one breaks, at least). On mine, which had outboard A/C, I never even ran the A/C belt, just the smaller one that did the inside loop. If you have the inboard A/C, the single long belt will still drive everything else, IIRC, but don't turn the A/C on (or the defrost, because that turns the A/C on too) or it will smoke the belt because it's just passing over the pully instead of actually going around it enough to turn it. It's about $12 for a new belt, and maybe half an hour to replace it.

Remember the rebadges of the japanese trucks too: Ford Courier Chevy LUV Dodge D50/Plymouth Arrow And the Toyota FJ40, 43, 45, 55 and FJ60 landcruisers (maybe newers ones too).

Those two cars are pretty identical since subaru's are pretty much giant lego kits. Except for two things... the manual and auto transmissions will have some differences (different axles, and different diff ratios, I think), and the '86 will be carbureated, and the loyale fuel injected. Other than that, they should interchange pretty well. I swear that they made about a dozen different water pumps for the EA82 engine though... depending on whether you had factory A/C, dealer A/C, no A/C, etc... funny that they basically made the same car for 10 years, but even one model year the water pump could be so many different versions. A/C compressors are similarly variable. But the basic engine is quite interchangeable, and if you wanted you could bolt the manual tranny drivetrain into the '86 with its engine and then put the SPFI system from the loyale in there. Just depends on how much swapping around of stuff you wanted to do... Z

I've had a GL with manual windows and manual door locks, too. 1987 CA model (SPFI). All the rest I've seen had the power windows and locks though. Hmmmm On the coolant... it might be just an intake manifold gasket, if there is no sign of the coolant in the oil or the oil in the coolant. Alot easier than doing the heads. I've done the heads in the car on an EA82, and aside from the difficulty seeing what you're doing, it's doable. Z

Also, check the center carrier bearing. When that went out on mine, it made horrible vibration (like a square wheel or something) at less than 10mph, and very little above that. It was only $100 for a whole replacement driveshaft (used) from superrupair so I didn't mess with replacing parts of it.

Is the 93 SPFI or MPFI? All the SPFI ones are the same, but the MPFI might not be. Check the timing belt first -- checking that the distributor rotor is spinning the best, as often it just strips off a few teeth where it passes around the crankshaft gear, and looks fine other than that. It will have a particular odd sound as it cranks due to no compression on two clyinders, if you're a conesouier of cranking subaru noises (or have seen a number of cars with bad timing belts)

Where are you located? I have an extra one but would have to ship it unless you're in Colorado. If you're in a subaru rich area like the NW, it's probably easier to just get another one. If you're in the east... no one's heard of subaru's, and maybe shipping it would be worth it. Z

So... my new toy (well, giant project right now, sticking new axles on it, and a turbodiesel engine in it), a 1967 Landrover 109 wagon. I'm trying to figure out what sort of lockers to put on it. My situation when I'd like them is usually deep snow. Maybe occasionaly some mud or loose rocks on a hill. Not really going to do much twisty off camber stuff where it lifts a wheel or dirt road rallying (rallying is what the suby is for anyway). Whats the opinion on types -- limited slip vs ARB locker? Just the rear or front and rear (it'll have a Dana 60 equivalent in the rear so plenty strong, but stock front is not that strong). The unimogs with front and rear lockers are nice in snow, I know... but is that overkill. Wait... I'm buying a safari landrover... forget not going overkill Cost is somewhat an concern, but this is my project/toy so I am willing to wait and spend a bit to get what I want (just spent $1200 on the engine....)

Uugh. Honestly, I would have taken the 6 year older subaru over any GM product at any price. But I was raised on Fords..... I've done engine swaps with nothing more than a hoist of some sort and a good socket set (come-along anchored to ceiling joist of a carport, once -- subaru engines are pretty light). Z

Wow. That's a deep drift there. I've only seen stuff like that in the northern cascades when they open highway 20 with the rotary in the spring. Z

There's alot of us guessing... and some who actually know like Gloyale I've taken my old '82 wagon up to aboug 12,500 feet, and it did okay (well... even more complete lack of power than usual..., but still ran fine, and made it over the pass). Z

Hill holder was the first thing I thought of too. I was going to suggest than maybe only the 4wd cars had the hill holder, but I just looked at my '82 2wd wagon, and it's got it too.

Probably different sized jets?

$50 1982 GL wagon -- first subaru I owned. I learned to drive a stick with that car, though I never did really learn that it wasn't a jeep. Drove it from CO to WA and back once. You could see through the doors there was so much rust, and it looked awful (someone smashed the fender in in a parking lot once, and I didn't really realize it till later, because it already had so many dents), but it always started (wouldn't always idle, but never failed to start) and even after leaving a few larger pieces on the road (exhaust, trim, etc), it still drove itself to the highschool shop class that I donated it to at the end.

They're 3.4kW (DC rating). They're currently producing more energy than the house needs, but I'm also working on an electric car, which will take at least as much as the house likely. The price, I can't remember exactly -- I design solar arrays for a living, so I got all the parts wholesale and did it in my spare time. The utility rebates usually pay for about half the cost, but I think they were more like 3/4 in my case. Street value of that array before rebates is about $25k.

1stsubaru.com is where I've bought them before, but usually I just end up going to Superrupair, because their right here in town, and are an approved subaru dealer. No need to pay shipping and wait... the waiting is usually the worst part.

Yeah... I've always taken mine in to have the wheel bearings done. Except now, the local shop that I always used to take stuff to when it was a little more than I wanted to tackle (or when I'd rather pay someone $300 to work on the car, and go hiking instead of rolling around in the mud all weekend under the car) closed, so I don't have anywhere cheap to take them too any more...) :-\

I've never had a CV joint whine -- it's usually clicking during turns. Might be the wheel bearing. If if is the CV, get factory replacement axles -- the aftermarket ones don't have the best reputation, plus they'll be for the wrong car if you don't get them from the dealer -- checker and napa always send the wrong ones.... replacing them is not bad at all, as long as you don't run into trouble with the roll pins -- use the right size punch to drive them out, not a nail or a bolt or whatever you have laying around....

Well -- depends on what direction you're going. going and facing uphill, it's pretty good. It will bash through deep snow better than the 4wd truck with studded tires. If you are trying to back uphill though, forget about it -- weight isn't on the drive wheels. Also, if you pick up a big load of snow in the scoop, it moves the weight forwards off the drive wheels, so you better be facing uphill, because it won't back up otherwise. I keep thinking about how to stick the front axle from a jeep under it and drive it somehow... course, then, I'd have a front differential to drag -- right now, it's got about 14" of clearance all the way under it.

Nah.. not melted yet Down to about 18" of superslop now....

Okay. Got some serious snow this weekend -- the first one all winter here. 34" on the flat, though about 48 inches fell (compacted the lower layers before it finished snowing). Heavy wet stuff too.... Pics... (not completely off topic... my Justy is in one of them) Saturday morning. Hmmm.... where's the house? The Sasquatch only has about a foot on it from friday night -- I had it all plowed out at dark on Friday. Took 4 hours with the tractor to get out to the highway (about 50 feet) and get a parking area cleared a bit. Hey, look, I found a subaru. There's actually two more subarus and another pickup truck in this photo.... somewhere.... Parking spot all shoveled out Sun came out Saturday afternoon and the snow started sliding off the solar panels ... the power was out for about three days, so I tapped into my battery bank (I'd never actually hooked up backup power, even though I have all the equipment....) Look... I found the D-50 And a VW rabbit -- I had to put a new starter motor in it, but then it started, first time since about a year ago when I took it apart for some maintenance. Pulled right out of the snowbank even being 2wd... cast iron diesel engine right above the drive wheels is nice sometimes Tried to drive up a friend's road in the D-50 Sunday afternoon -- with the warm temps it's sunk about a foot from the highest, but still no go... slushy slime above the bumper....