zyewdall

Nice. Loyales, or GLs?

Yeah, it sounds kind of like a loose tranny mount (or missing.... it happens ) or it also sounds kind of like a really bad U-joint or center bearing on the driveshaft..... Z

FWIW, I have been using the Kirkland brand batteries from Costco in my vehicles for a few years, and have never had a bad one (except for killing them by leaving the dome lights on for days without driving it.... several times -- not the battery's fault). They have various varieties from around 400CCA to 900CCA -- I generally go with whatever the largest one that will physically fit and has the right terminal type for the vehicle. On those zero degree mornings, it helps Z

Yeah, maybe.... because it sounds like an identical tranny to what came in the car was put in there. So, that shouldn't be causing any issues unless they messed up the exhaust putting it in, or the exhaust is messed up independently of the tranny. Z

Yup, that would do it... Z

Right now the local craigslist here has 12 EA82's (7 of them being dual range 4x4 wagons), one EA81 hatch, one EA81 wagon, and two EA81 brats, one dual range tranny and two EA82 motors listed. Most for under $1000. Gotta love Boulder Colorado

Yes, you can probably learn alot more with an underpowered car... because then you have to learn everything about how the car responds and how to really drive it... instead of just giving it more gas in whatever gear you are in I was watching vids last night of off-roading, and someone came by in a 60's landrover (with the 4 cylinder) and showed up several big jeeps that were just spinning dirt out trying to do a bumpy hill climb -- he may not have had nearly the power in his vehicle (probably around a third or less horsepower), but he knew exactly how to use it. Then... you can move on to the higher power one after learning to feel the car.

Yup, I was going to say, that the behaviour sounded exactly like a broken choke. I can't remember how these are set up (mine always worked, I guess), but a manual choke might not be too hard, and they work very well. On my '76 Mazda truck, it will fire within 3 or 4 seconds of cranking even on zero degree days, if I use the choke. Then, you just have to remember to open the choke before trying to drive it..... more operator responsibility.... but less chance for complicated old parts to break

Well... then... the bad battery connector or bad ground is not it. What were you jumping with the screwdriver? Were you jumping 12 volts to the little spade terminal on the starter solinoid, or to the big bolt on the motor itself? if you were jumping it to the bolt, I'd say that the solinoid is toast (despite them checking it), and is not properly sending power to the motor. If you were jumping it to the little signal terminal, I'd say the ignition switch is toast -- I've seen this on a number of loyales and EA81's (and my justy kind of does it now too).

It depends on what you want to do with it... if you want to rally it.. yeah, you want something with more pickup -- even a stock 1st gen legacy WITHOUT the turbo and with the 4EAT will feel pretty fast compared to the old EA series wagons.... However, if you mean driving on jeep trails where clearance, low gearing, and such is more important... then you'll want the dual range transmission, and the old EA engine will be fine (though, more fun with an EJ swap, true).

Sounds like a bad ground, or a bad battery terminal -- under heavy load, it becomes an open, and the car looses all power. I've had it happen before when the battery terminal was not tightented, just placed on the battery, and also when the ground between the battery and the engine block got kind of corroded. Z

Yeah, the standar carbed fuel pump only provides somewhere around 3 to 5psi, whereas the one for the fuel injected system has to provide more like 40psi. You might have to upgrade some lines as well. Z

maybe not... Greyhound used to run through Boulder a few years ago... not sure if it still does. Z

I've been suprised the ice that my suby can climb with four studded snow tires. At parents house in WA, the driveway turned into a glazed ice runway, with some 25% slopes -- the suby went right up, squirming a bit. My own driveway last night was getting quite icy (the warm weather is melting the snow... usually it just stays snow all winter). Tried it in 2wd, which stopped... then it could not start even in 4wd, and I had to back up and try it again -- no problem then. Yeah... steering is a bit useless -- that's what the ruts are for, to take over steering

Rustoleum specialty Camflauge paint is what what the store here carries in spray cans. $5.99 each. I've used the similar rustoleum stuff for painting cars, and the problem is that it oxidizes after a year in the colorado sun, and is matte and slightly faded on the surface, instead of glossy... but that should not be a problem with the flat camo stuff....

Our local Home Depot has a full line of flat paint designed for doing camo on stuff. All typical camo colors. I think it's probably krylon stuff? EDIT -- I might be thinking of McGuckins's hardware though, come to think of it. They carry alot more than Home Despot does. I'll stop by at lunch and see what brand it is at least, though so maybe you could look it up. Z

Ah, Wikipedia says that it can be Pitch Circle Diameter.... Though ***************Cat Dolls or Primary Ciliary Dyskenesia are more common uses for it.... according to google

Yeah... I was going to ask that too.... Z

Yeah... maybe it's just knock from low octane gas. Mine doesn't like the 85 on hills so I use the 87 (mid grade in CO). Also, CV's can make knocking noises going up hills too.... especially if they are non OEM rebuilds (in my experience -- the cheapo rebuilts only lasted about 15k before they were knocking under hard load -- not under turns though). Z

Yup. I only buy axles from Subaru any more, since Checker and Rock Auto ALWAYS send me the wrong ones (ironically, the wrong one they sent you, is the right one for my car (5 speed manual, non turbo). Z

Wow, that's a really good shape EA81 for not being a NW car. I like the roof rack and stuff too. Good catch

Yeah... in the NW, there's a gazillion of these cars, so you should be able to find a junkyard one for $100 or $150, I would think. Z

If you don't use it locally on the new "beast", I'd be interested in buying it from you.... was just looking at the SJR kits for $455... I thought there were more like $300 last I had looked (yeah... I know metal prices have gone through the roof in the past year...)

In the north american market, the '88 wagons were all SPFI EA82's, I believe. Overseas, there was more variation. Z

I'd take it home and fix it yourself.... Sounds like the shop just wants to replace more than is necessary. I can't really envision the rear differential being affected, unless you did a pole vault with the drive shaft -- which, luckily it looks like you did not. Like a number of people have said, these transmissions drain their oil if you pull the driveshaft, so that would explain the oi leak... probably don't need a new transmisison. Plus... it looks like you have several options for replacements on the board anyway. Z