zyewdall

Depends on whether your A/C compressor is inboard or outboard of the alternator. I've had both... depending on whether it was factory A/C, or dealer A/C I think. If the A/C is outboard, you can easily just get rid of the longer belt that goes around both the alternator and the A/C and keep the shorter belt that only does the alternator, but if it's inboard, the alternator belt has to go around the A/C compressor first...

if they go bad? I was told that they are required because it's a 3 cylinder engine, in order to reduce vibration, which sounds like reducing engine noise. Z

Unfortunately, I have to second DaveT here...

At the very least, I'd crank it for a while with the ignition wire off, to get the oil moving around everywhere before you start full rpm and ignition and such.

:lol: Maybe not... That 20 foot extension ladder I had on the GL for a while cut about 2 to 3 mpg off it... and would probably hang over both bumpers on the justy it was so long.

I haven't tried them, but I am seriously considering trying them in my old mazda pickup truck. It's got the old points and condensor ignition, so could probably actually use the boost.... not sure how much difference they'd make in a modern electronic ignition car. And, it's quite underpowered (EA82 subaru seems downright speedy compared to it), so I'm sure to notice the difference if there is one If I do, I'll report back... Z

It's at the shop getting the rebuilt engine. Pics next week after I pick it up. Z

Not a real scientific test... but my old EA81's (all carbed) felt like they had a tad more low end torque than the EA82 SPFI.... like at 1800rpms. Of course the EA82 SPFI has way more power on the road.

Reviving a dead thread.... I just bought one yesterday. 1991 4 door. Sort of schmurple colored. It is getting a brand new (rebuilt) engine from TNT in Denver with a 3 year 36k warrantee, and the rest of the car is great. no rust or dents or such and the interior is nice too. $2100 all together, but I was looking at alot to get the GL back to tip top condition too... Engine is still fine with 242k, but needs brakes, a wheel bearing I think, a water pump soon, radio is being sketchy, windshield cracked pretty bad, and I really really want A/C this summer (as does my dog -- newfie malamute mix)... which the Justy has, and the GL needs a new A/C compressor -- not so cheap.... Plus, commuting 57 miles a day round trip.... 29mpg vs ?? in the justy? I'm hoping for at least high 30's. Plus, my neighbor is taking a job at the same company as me, so we can carpool. Even better. I'll probably keep the GL as a backup... or maybe fix it up just for the urgent things, and sell it to one of my friends who's still commuting in a pickup truck..... that's gotta hurt. I wonder if the 13" alloy wheels off my VW rabbit will fit... looks like the 4x100 pattern on it... :cool: I'll post some pics next week after I pick it up. I'm thinking of making a brush guard for the front, to make it seem more formidable to big SUV's Even my GL looks kinda big parked next to it.

That's awesome. Gotta love sawzalls and vehicles.... zzz

When I asked at Superrupair, they said $800 for an EJ22 and wiring harness, all parted out already. But this is also in Colorado, where used subaru's still sell like hotcakes at higher prices than alot of other places. A decent condition 1st gen legacy wagon here still sells for $1200 to $1800, though occasionally you find a dead one for $500 or under. Z

Currently my subie only has a ham radio. Though it needs a CB as well (the loggers use the CB to let you know when they're barreling down a one and a half lane road towards you at 40mph......). The advantage of the ham radio is the wattage -- 65 watts on high power. I can do simplex for over 50 miles, and can often hit repeaters even in narrow canyons where it's hard to get reception on anything else. For an antenna, I've got a magnet mount 5 foot whip in the center of the roof -- if I run into anything (parking garages usually) it just pops off, no damage.

I don't know. Even the new F-250 pickups (or at least the F150's) have independent front suspension with CV's and axle shafts on the 4wd ones. Not to mention all the toyotas and stuff since 1985. They're a lot more beefy than a subaru axle, but similar design. Wonder how easy it would be to take the IFS from a Tacoma and put it in a subaru with a diverced T-case? You can break even solid axles if you throw enough torque at them.... I know a guy with a heavily modded cummins turbo diesel in a lifted 4x4 E350 van. He was running 44" highway rated excavator tires on it for a while, but kept grenading rear ends and driveshafts and such, so he went back to 39" or 41" truck tires.... I was following him down a jeep trail in my stock '82 GL wagon one day... sure I had to pick my line carefully and was taking some undercarriage and rocker panel hits... but I kept up fairly well considering

Most people, if wheeling a cherokee, a tacoma, and a subaru in the deep snow, would put the subaru in the back, and let the others break the trail... I love that the subaru was the one that had to break trail for the others. Yeah... sounds like it's it a little rough on the body and transmission... I've rarely heard of killing dual range EA82 trannies unless doing a divorced transfer case.

Yeah, come to think of it, I don't know of many cars other than carbed dodges that CAN'T pass emissions here in Colorado... wonder why they even bother testing if the limits are so high. Z

Is is hard to make subaru's pass emissions in California? I've never had any problem making them pass the test here in Colorado, dyno test always comes in at less than a quarter of the allowed amounts, for both EA81's and EA82's, carbed and SPFI (even with the check engine light on it was still fine). Either I've lucked out and had ones that run well... or Colorado's limits for 80's cars are really high. On the fender, isn't it the same as an EA81 wagon -- should be easy to find a good one in CA. Not sure about the door though. Z

I would. But then again, I have a spare engine sitting around, and I have a weakness for subarus..... I like the yellow one better though. Z

Yes, a subaru will still run 3 quarts low. But, it's probably best not to do that I run the synthetic 10,000 mile stuff in mine, but it burns about a quart every 500 miles, so it doesn't actually stay in there very long. It runs so much smoother on synthetic, that's why I do it. 237k miles on the original EA82 right now. Starting to hear a little TOD on a cold (less than 20F) starts recently though... Z

Yeah.... looks like a mini honda ridgeline or chevy avalanche -- neither of which I think are very attractive. The Brat looked cool, so I'd say Toyota didn't steal the brat... :-p

'88 and '89 GL's.....

Last time I filled up in Oregon, I pulled up to the station, and the attendant looks at my subaru and says to me "that's the ugliest car I've ever seen". Retard. THe new 6.7 liter cummins dodge trucks don't sound like diesel's any more -- my old mazda pickup with a small exhaust leak is way louder.

Yeah, black is hard to keep clean -- possibly even harder than white. On the other hand, my GL wagon was weird charcoal gray/brown -- exactly the color of pavement/dirt. I guess that's easier to keep "clean"....

I went to superrupair and ordered a used one -- they ship used parts all over, but shipping would probably kill you on something like a driveshaft though.

I just put in a used driveshaft, either $50 or $100 I think. I am not actually sure that you can get the carrier bearing off the driveshaft, which was why I elected for just replacing the whole thing. Maybe you can though.