zyewdall

LOL Mine does great sometimes, and other times it pulls the same hill in a gear lower... same load in the car, same temp outside, everything, who knows. I'm started to get the hesitation below 2,500 occasionally on mine recently. Have you cleaned the MAF? That made it go away on mine last time. Z

I've driven for 10k miles after the outer CV boot ripped, just some clicking. And, I had an outer joint fail on a new axle with only 5k miles -- boot still intact. I had to drive in 3wd for a while because the vibration would make the tranny jump up and down if I put all the torque through the bad front axle. YMMV Z

My old Mazda pickup truck only weighs 2600 empty... but I can put 1400 lbs in there, so GWVR is probably more than the EA82. Wonder how much a brand new outback wagon weighs.... we have one as a company car and even with the EJ25, it feels slower than my EA82 wagon sometimes... alot heavier car. And in reality, much faster... just feels really big. Though not as big as the Izuzu NPR... that's about 8,000lbs empty

What I had heard is that 1st gear is not completely straight cut like reverse, but not as helical as the other gears. My 1st gear whines pretty nicely... but not quite the same as reverse whine. 5MT dual range. Come to think of it, the granny gear 1st on my dad's old ford truck whines too...

Take a look at my nose job thread a year and a half back or so... sounds pretty similar to what you are planning. Actually, when I saw the red and blue loyale, I thought you had his car... Z

It could have filled all the lines with air, and now it has to push all that air out of the injector. I'm not sure exactly how to bleed the air on a gas engine, but it's a big problem on diesels if you run them out of fuel (BTDT ). And usually you do have to bleed them. I would think that the injector in a gas engine, being an electrically driven injector not a pressure driven injector, might clean itself out eventually if you keep cranking, but not sure. Oddly, I've never run a fuel injected car out of gas, so I really don't know.... Z

Screen is the only thing I've found that will stop pack rats. I am trying to figure out how to screen the entire engine compartment on my dad's landrover so I can keep the rats from eating the radiator hoses, spark plug wires, and all the other wires. We keep poison in there too (up on top of the engine where the cats can't get to it)... but the rats just eat it and go on living it seems. Z

Sounds like a stretching clutch cable. 5 minute to tighten it up a bit and you'll be good as new.... my '82 wagon had to be re-adjusted ever month because the clutch stopped working. Finally just bought a new cable. If that's what's happening, even if you don't adjust it, it'll disengage enough to shift 1st through 4th. It'll just have to be started in 1st gear (with the clutch pedal in to keep it from lurching quite as much, as it'll still be partly disengaged). Z

Well, I did some googling, and it IS a puegeot.... probably a Puegeot 203 it seems. http://peugeot.mainspot.net/hist14.shtml Wow. I've never actually seen a puegeot that old before. Great condition too. Too bad it's not an old 4wd subaru though... that would be really sweet -- I love the looks of it, especially with subaru wagon wheels on it.

Take a look at these pics.... bizarre looking old vehicle that I've never seen before. But it has subaru wagon wheels. Is it maybe a puegot stealing some subaru wheels? Or some old subaru I've never seen? It was parked front end into the woods for the last 5 years and I always thought it was a VW bug. But... now that it's running around and visible from other sides, it's obviously not. The owner also has a fairly nice '82 brat (you can see the front in one picture) and a beater '86 wagon. I might just stop and ask him someday. http://server5.theimagehosting.com/image.php?img=strangefront.JPG&public_view=1 http://server5.theimagehosting.com/image.php?img=strangetire.JPG&album=0&public_view=1

Actually, I think the geo metro is a suzuki swift.

Sounds like a wet disty. Have to take it apart and dry it. I always powerwash my suby engine, and have never had problems, but I powerwashed the engine on a friend's mitsubishi pickup once... started, but ran like total crap on the way back to my house. An hour later it would not start at all. Took disty cap off, and it was all wet -- carefully dried it out with a paper towel, and it ran great again. Z

Yeah... I used to prevent this on my old suby by leaving the doors unlocked and the keys in the ignition.... I guess no one wanted to steal a rust covered multicolored dented '82 subaru wagon This was in a college town where most the students had rich parents... so my car was almost always the worst on the the block.

Sounds like it might be a bad center bearing on the driveshaft. This will cause really bad bouncing of the rear end at very low speeds, and then a vibration at higher speeds (starting at about 45mph in my car)

Dunno... maybe the A is the 1.8 liter block, and an E is a head -- the 81 is the OHV, and the 82 the OHC.... Nah. that doesn't make much sense either.... Then there was the ER27, right? Which is the 6 cylinder version of an EA82. Which actually is 2.7 liters I think. Hmmmmmm

Uh. Probably not... his set of crappy 16" or 17" tires probably cost more than my nice set of 13" studded snows And by fast, I mean I was going 10 or 15mph, and he was slowly sliding over into the ditch trying to start from a stop... I really do drive pretty conservatively in the snow, unless it's on a subaru outing, and we have lots of retreval gear and vehicles to pull me out of the ditch, in which case I test the conditions a little more.

Suceess :banana: New axle (well, rebuilt, but from the subaru dealer) is in there, all back together, and I took it for a spin. Sounds better than it did before, and none of the transmission shaking vibration that the bad joint was causing. Yipppie. Only took three days.... Z

Yup. I've put $300 of tires on a $50 car before. And then passed people in the snow who only had $200 tires on their $40,000 SUV I used to run all seasons, but after doing dedicated snows, I will not go back. I also have a 4x4 pickup, with good studded tires, and until the snow gets pretty deep (like a foot or so), the subaru handles wayyy better. Doesn't feel squirely at all compared to the pickup.

You've got an off-grid PV house? The QO series of Square D brand regular house circuit breakers are rated for up to 50 volts DC, in addition to 120vac. I use them all the time on smaller PV systems, and also on subaru's occasionally....

Yeah..... look at my thread this week on the %$#%$ roll pin..... and don't do what I did.

Ah interesting.... I had my terminology all wrong. Anyhow, it was the outer joint that slides in and out, not like it's supposed to... When I finally got the axle out, it fell apart completely. I had to grind one side of the axle all the way down to the transmission stub, then the roll pin finally seccumbed to being pounded out from the other side. You were all right about the various drill bits.... anything hard enough to dril it shattered.... But guess what.... the new axle I bought is a 25 spline axle!!!!! Not the 23 that my car takes. That's the third time that's happened to me on this car... what's wrong with these parts places not knowing the difference between turbo and non-turbo cars. I'm returning it, and getting a new one from the subaru dealer instead. Hey, while I'm at it, maybe I'll by a little bolt to go in there instead of the roll-pin next time And a proper drift punch for when I have to take the other side apart...

Ummm. Just saw this thread, and I've got plans to be out in Utah this weekend. Oh well... maybe I'll make a meet once it starts snowing (I've been hiding up in the mountains from the heat :-p )

They had a bunch of different designs, but on mine, the A/C compressor belt goes around all the same stuff as everything else... plus the A/C compressor and a second little tensioner under the compressor (the alternator is used to tension the other belt). I just took the A/C belt off completely, and am just running one belt. It's also the front belt that runs the A/C. However, it sounds like you might have the inboard AC (on mine the A/C is way over to the right, and the alternator is in the middle). In that case, it's different... my '85 GL had that, but I can't remember the details. Either way, the oil pump is driven by the timing belt, so no worries about that. Z

I think it's normal for the engine rpm to be pretty high when it's first started cold -- because the choke is on -- not a mechanical choke any more, but a computer implemented one. My SPFI GL will idle at 2500rpm or more for a minute or more when it's cold, but then slows down as it warms up. What it doesn't do is bog if you try to drive it before it warms up. And, if you rev it with the gas pedal, it'll change to idling lower -- like resetting an automatic choke by hitting the gas. Have you cleaned the MAF? I noticed that I did have a hesitation on mine before I did that -- though that didn't seem to vary based on temperature. EDIT -- by cold, I mean a sub freezing day. On a 60 degree day, it might idle at only 1500 for a little while before going back to 800rpm idle. Z

Some places seemed to call it the L-series as well (as in DL, GL, etc...) But Leone was the JDM name all the way from 1971 to 1994 from what I know. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_1600