zyewdall

:lol: I've been known to do that too!

Wow. I have no idea if it's compatible. I'd try retitling the post "EJ16 questions", which will get the attention of everyone here, because they'll wonder what the heck an EJ16 is. Perhaps someone will know the answer though. And yes, we want to see photos of the engine if you have them.

Hmmm. Throwing any codes? Getting fuel? Is it using any coolant? What if the intake manifold gaskets are bad somehow -- could be burning coolant and possibly have massive vaccuum leaks if so.

They just started? We've had it for at least 10 years as "winter" gas. Yes, it gives a little worse mileage because of the lower btus/gallon. But remember, in the wintertime your mileage will go down anyway because of snow tires, more warmup time, more accessories on, etc.

Not every turbo out there is a "modern turbo like subaru". Therefore this discussion is not useless. If nothing else, everyone reading it now knows that there are multiple types of turbos, with different care requirements. Yes, it's off topic for the specific question that was first asked, but what thread on here stays on topic

I think the one on the bottom is a DAIR100 http://www.dair.co.uk/ I bet one of these would fit pretty nicely into a subaru... about $5,000

Yeah, turbos (at least oil cooled ones like my diesel truck has) need to cool down for a few minutes after you come off the highway, or otherwise off high load. I always try to let mine idle for a minute at least if I have been under load. And I do use synthetic oil, though the owners manual doesn't specify it (I don't know if it existed in 1984). I remember when I learned to drive the 4wd articulated forklift at work, I was instructed that if I didn't let it idle for 5 minutes after working, to cool down the turbo, the turbo wouldn't be the only thing that was toast... ...$12,000 to replace it.

The other driving factor behind using diesel engines in airplanes is that they'll run on jet fuel -- which is cheap compared to aviation gasoline. Plus more readily available at airports nowadays... The german WWII junkers bombers used diesel engines -- they were having a severe fuel shortage in Germany, so perhaps that drove them to develope an alternative to gas engines for their airplanes? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Junkers_Ju_86

For a second, I thought that first picture was my car. Except mine was the silver blue, with dark mettallic blue underneath. Looked pretty sharp. I'm a big fan of the two tone -- my current one is the gray-brown, with dark green below the door molding. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=46066&highlight=two+tone For prep, I'd wash it really good, then rough it up with sandpaper to take all the gloss off. If you're really into it, a good layer of primer underneath would be good, but I just sprayed mine.

See if you can search for threads with diesel that I've posted in, and there's a bit of discussion. I can't remember exactly where they are any more, but I really really really really really want a biodiesel subaru. They are rumored to be developing a 2.0 liter HO diesel for the UK legacies in 2008. I wonder how much that'll cost to get my hands on one of them. I don't see any reason it couldn't be made strong enough. The subaru already has a short stroke, which is good for a high rpm diesel (my diesel rabbit will rev to 4500rpm happily, but the 2.3 liter turbodiesel in my truck redlines at about 4k). Maybe something like a EJ22T with the displacement reduced to 2.0 liters by shrinking the bore. And different heads, and an injection pump sitting up top by the alternator of course.

What engine does it have? The smallest engine we got in the Legacy in the US was the 2.2 liter EJ22. I know that there was an EJ18 and an EJ20?, but I hadn't heard of an EJ16. Or is it an EA71?

Yeah... I can't guess english bolt sizes by looking at them, because I am too used to working on subarus. I assume everything is a 10, 12, 14, or 17. My darned VW has 11's, 13's and 15's, which is bad enough, without throwing english on there too.... Luckily I have a hardware store with a large metric selection (even metric stainless steel )

Keep an eye out on craigslist for one in Denver or Boulder. I usually see quite a few a week go through there of the description you want. Sort of funny that there isn't any listed right now actually.

If using magnets, why not use the rear driveshaft? It'd be simpler and probably wouldn't move as much as the front axles (easier to mount the magnets). Unless it's a fwd and doesn't have a rear drive shaft...

Yeah. Maybe up to $1200 if you really want it and it really doesn't need any work. I got my '89 GL (189k, seized rear wheel bearing, and bad AC and misadjusted clutch, but great body and interior, and great running engine) for $500. $1100 by the time I put a new bearing and new snow tires on it and fixed a few other minor things to make it all good.

Well, there is the issue of legality, which I'll leave up to you, and safety on those hills -- I assume you are talking about flat towing it with a driver in the loyale to brake? Without the engine running, going DOWN the hills is what I'd worry about. How good are the brakes in the loyale with no power braking? Legacies have alot of power compared to a loyale, and should be able to tow it at 15mph or so easy. I use my GL wagon to push other cars around sometimes, and it'll push another GL wagon up a hill fine (okay, I went 20 feet, but getting it started is the hardest part anyway). Remember, towing ratings are based on towing it at highway speed. To give you an idea of what you can do if you are okay with being slow (and nuts), a friend of mine towed a 16,000 lbs school bus half a mile up a fairly steep dirt road with an old 4 cylinder toyota pickup -- going 5mph in low range, and getting it started on a flat spot at the bottom. If you don't want to actually maintain highway speed, and don't have to start on a hill (which could toast the clutch), it'll be fine. Legal, I don't know. Putting it on a tandem axle trailer would be totally legal, but I wouldn't even think about pulling that with a legacy -- the trailer would weight at least as much as the loyale, and the combo would be more than the legacy ( = very bad)

Wow, you've got a better (worse? ) carb than mine had. The really high idle can be caused by tightening the nut on top of the air cleaner too tight -- bends the piece inside the carb that it attaches to and somehow adjusts the idle speed. The stalling after its warm is probably internal vacuum leaks of some sort. Mine did this too. A new carb is the best way to solve all of this, but I was quoted $300 for a rebuilt one. If the body's good, I bet someone on the forum will buy it for lifting and modding, and you could get an old beater legacy for a point a to b car instead. They're not guaranteed to be hassle free, and will actually be a little harder to work on some stuff if it goes wrong, but it'd be at least 10 years newer, so if you don't have time to work on it, might be better.

I've never heard of breaking in a clutch either. Engines, definitely, but not clutches. A loose hillholder cable shouldn't cause any problem at all. Alot of them don't even have it hooked up at all. The hillholder spring does pull back on the clutch fork, but it's mostly the much stronger springs of the clutch itself that keep it engaged when the clutch pedal isn't pushed. If the hill holder cable was so tight that it was keeping the clutch from engaging all the way, then it could have burned the clutch out. But it would also have been keeping the brakes from disengaging because the other end is pulling on the hill holder cylinder. This is always what happens to my hillholder if it's adjusted wrong -- brakes lock up. Was the hillholder working before you tightened it? After you adjusted the clutch freeplay, does it adjust very close to the top, or well towards the bottom of the pedal stroke? Perhaps it was the clutch pedal keeping it from fully engaging? :-\

Except that putting in 20W50 (summer) 5W40 (winter) cuts down on the amount of oil burned quite a bit.

Remember to derate the horsepower for your altitude. Driving my EA81 around at 11,000 feet elevation, I figured it was down to about 50HP (assuming it could still produce the stock 72 HP at sea level, with 220k miles....

EA82 SPFI with 206k miles. 1 quart every 1200 miles. 50 years ago, a quart every 500 miles wasn't considered that bad for a high mileage engine.

Yeah, I concur that the indicator light it out of sync with the lever. You should feel two separate clicks when pulling the lever up. A good test to see if you are in low range is to start from a stop in 2nd gear. It'll be really easy if its in low range. If not, it'll just about stall the engine.

I'd say 90% sure it doesn't need a new clutch at all. It needs the adjustment nut on the clutch cable tightened, or worst case, a $20 clutch cable. My '82 GL used to readjust itself all the time, so every month or so it would get so it engaged about a quarter inch above the floor, and grind going into first or reverse. 5 minutes with a wrench, and I was good to go for another month. $2,200 seems high even for a nice rust free one like that. I might pay $1,800 if its really in as good a shape as it seems (and they adjust the clutch properly )

The owner's manual probably also assumes you are doing mostly stop and go driving where the oil doesn't really get up to full temp very often. If you do alot of highway instead, a heavier weight is probably good.

Pretty similar to an EA82 wagon, but with ALOT more power. I was riding in a friend's Impreza 2.2 last weekend, and man, did it have alot more power than my GL -- accelerating up hills in 4th that my GL would be readlined in 3rd, but without a hope of keeping RPM up if I'd shifted to 4th. You don't notice the added power of the EJ22 as much in the Legacies since they're heavier cars, but the Imprezas are closer to the weight of the EA82's I think. Gas mileage is similar to the 4wd EA82's, but probably not as good as the 2wd EA82's.