rverdoold

For preventing the next iteration. In Europe we have those nasty rodents that eat cables as well (Minks). I have 2 ultrasonic rodent Repellents in car and worked for the last 15y without issues. Once we got a rental from work and, bang within 3h the little one was already eating cables.

The car was basically cut in half. I think they should be happy nobody was riding in the rear seats. https://media.dumpert.nl/dmp/media/image/8/a/5/8a5078af-c981-567d-15fe-12057f0e4864/image.jpg

I can imagine a couple of things: Something on one of the seats setting seatbelt warning for a moment. Driver awareness, i know Subaru can have a driver awareness system/camera that does track the pupils of the driver and see if that is on the road in front or on something else during a sufficient time period (i know this because the company where i worked sold this system to subaru). You are not holding the steering wheel sufficient enough (again, there is a sensor that monitors if the driver holds the steering wheel with sufficient pressure/squeeze, also this sensor comes from my former work). a feature or a bug Good luck

The switch is a membrane type on the top of the block. It uses the block as a ground and 1-wire for the indicator in the dash. (the switch is somewhere under the alternator, next to the EJ25 logo cast. 25240KA040 could be the right one) - Check for leaks, and check oil level with the dipstick first! - Check if that wire/connector is connected. Or pull it off and ground it with a piece of electric wire. Start and see if the light goes off I have had these fail between 4 and 12 y of car age, the are simple to replace.

How are the brake line? The flexible parts at the strut. Cracks inside there can prevent the backflow of brake-fluid. Or the slide pin are not moving freely.

With that topic title I was going to suggest to take the car to a drive-inn theatre and watch 'The exorcism' . Tail lights are prone for remaining moist, also check the rubber grommets on the housing.

Aluminum or aluminium is cast using sand/glue casts. Due to the rapid change of temperatures there minor cracks at the liquid aluminum and sand interface. Once the sand or mold is stripped away you see these little burs. Some brands polish them away, others leave them. You can see on machined parts (32222 written photo) there are no cracks in the aluminum where the top is machined off. There are also other marks on the engine that shows how often the master cast is used, usually a grid with dots. Manufacturers have learned how many times a master can used. Also during the master sand mold pressing step some sand from the previous mold preparation can stick onto the master, this leaving some 'extra' sand for the next mold. All these steps result in these small cosmetic lines. If you are willing to spend loads of time you can remove them. (see: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hJkwUVSpNPw)

Generally in Europe A/C only became standard around the 2000s to 2010s on most cars!!!! We have wiper heaters :D

I would not idle to long. When in the polar areas of Europe we had no issues at -25c. Jus start car, put kids in and drive away slowly. Don't leave it idling for long time at cold, the oil lubrication is simply sub optimal. A block heater and oil pan heater are most ideal. I had a block heater that at least made the interior warm up quickly. Driving on ice and snowed roads, nice clunking sounds from the frozen suspension needing time to warm up too.

It is actually more interesting to crash test older cars. That then shows what the rust does to the structure. Here I think the SVX remains well stable, indeed there are quite some newer cars that would not be that good. Airbag remains stable, footwell probably collapsed. I think here the wide boxer engine might help a bit in absorbing the forces and spreading them out.

Not for the faint hearted, the swiss DTC group did a small overlap crash test with an SVX. On the good note, it seems that for a 90s car it does very good. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dT5PD1stTO0 (DTC does all kinds of weird crash tests at speed with retired cars)

The e-boxer is available in Netherlands. I think it is not different from the crosstrek hybrid. And I have seen some people mounting an electric motor instead of the engine.

Unfortunately every one makes mistakes. But as long they are recognised and solved instead of made bigger it should be fine. But now, since the gearbox will be out, maybe have the HG also done as you could have the potential ej253 as well.

Yep that is what Europe wants ! Still hoping on a hydrogen combustion boxer engine, you should not always care about efficiency. Fun is a more important factor.

Very obviously something has gone wrong. But no movement in D seems no line pressure in the transmission (4EAT assuming). And that is most likely due to no or low oil (ATF). Did you check the oils. Engine is on the front, ATF is on the Driver-side behind the engine, front diff is a mini stick on the passenger side. But once listening again, and if oils are fine on the dipsticks. Then it could be that the upper shield of the exhaust is resting on the drive shaft to the back. Those plates show in this vid (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UolUF1XXBsw).

There has been a study on 'pay per km' driving in the Netherlands. In 2000!!!!! It was rejected due to privacy. BUT actually what had happened was something completely different of course. Most lease car owners have to pay a part of the value of the car to their taxable salary if they use a company car privately. (obviously this % is depending on the emissions again, (think back of the diesel scandal!)). Now, if you did not use the company car privately this percentage was 0. But you would have to prove that you did not do that by a km registration on paper. Just imagine suddenly having a GPS in your car or 1000s of toll gates registering you are actually using your car privately. So some political parties had said, 'with us this will not happen' and the votes were won. I really would like to have a outback 3.6R but tax and sales price shows it is impossible, + the cost at the gas station (2.10 euro per Liter = 11 dollar/Gallon!!!) see why we are forced to electric driving here?

Now the picture of diesel scandal should become clear. The tax is paper based, so of course if VW is able to make a diesel have only 85g/km co2 emission (on paper) then they will sell massive amounts. Diesels with <90g/km co2 were previously tax exempted. But now not anymore, but the sales where done. And 90% of these are leased cars so they have 0% care about the car or fuel consumption as it is included in the lease contract. But the diesel scandal is of course not only VW, all european manufactures have a decent blame there! Now regarding actual consumption the OBW was rated at 215g/km and I was always at 182g/km so easily making the consumption and emissions whilst other brands could never get to that. Problem now is that VW has to pay billions in fines, but actually the government is the problem. Most fair would be to have a lease car construction where you are only allowed to consume 15% more than the spec. I bet less people will trash their car.

I never understood that the hybrid cross-trek was never for sale here. Maybe toyota doesnt allow it. But only now you can get a hybrid outback and forester. But regarding tax it is to late. Only fully electric or plug-in are now tax interesting.

I got a very decent trade in value. So not complaining regarding that. The tax structure is country based. There is a but of course, we have the one of the best roads in the world, superb quality. And after Norway the highest amount of electric cars (due to massive tax benefit).

Dear ultimate Subaru forum users, And especially long time users like GD, Nipper, 1 Lucky Texan (and many others of course as well), But after well over 22 years of driving with various Subaru cars I will step out and lock the doors of my 2009 OBW for the last time in two weeks. I have had three cars in this time, an old 91 legacy EJ20 4EAT 2WD followed by an 99 impreza EJ16 MT running on LPG and later a OBW BL 09 4EAT VTD running on LPG. In the Netherlands/Holland driving these high CO2 cars is, even on LPG, a very expensive habit. This is then also the main reason for changing to a 2017 Toyota Auris 1.2T CVT. Here road tax goes by weight, emission and fuel type. Gasoline being the cheapest, then LPG and then Diesel. And car insurance is determined by new car sales value. And here is the trick, or unlucky part. A car has a base price, and then for every gram of CO2 per km above 105g you pay 235 euros extra (per gram!!! 26k euro tax, then 21% normal tax on a 31k euro car). Hence a 215g/km Outback has a very high sales price. About double of that in USA! This is of course the main reason why most cars in Netherlands are Mini and Micro sized cars, according to US size standards. An other problem is the rare-ness of Subaru in the Netherlands, of the 2003-2009 OBW only 2500 have been sold. YES!!! The market is so small and spare 2nd hand parts are impossible to source. Additionally, original spare parts are insanely priced to the added very high workmanship price. And due to the rarity, almost no un-branded garage knows much about the tech and tools. The OBW just became a little bit to expensive to drive on both road tax and maintenance cost. In general I have not had any significant breakdowns or issues, showing reliability and durability is there. Even running on LPG had no major consequences on reliability, and many Polish and Italians will agree to this. The worst problem I had was with the OBW and was due to a leak in the exhaust pipe making the ATF temperature sensor go mad. The seal between the front and back pipe came out. Instead of reading high the sensor read low and force the gearbox to run in 3rd gear. After, re-setting and fixing the exhaust it never returned. We have been through many places, both very temps, and low temps the OBW always worked. I will miss the very limited 25y anniversary model with all (yes all, including HID and self levelling suspension) options, red leather upholstery of very good quality (not a single wear mark after 160k miles). Maybe, hopefully, I will be back in future, that will be electric then, as there is no other way how any ICE car can remain affordable here. (Current electric cars pay no road tax and if you make your own electricity you drive for free). I am looking forward what the Solterra will bring. But with this all I want to thank you forum members as always being a valuable input, helpful and friendly. See you hopefully in future. Remco Picking up the trailer on holiday Getting LPG at -16F in Latvia. After I first got it, about 4 years old. Interior

With the ownership of Toyota I absolutely do not understand this car. In Netherlands we would get a 50% road tax bonus for any plug-in hybrid but only non-plug-in version is being sold here. 50 miles electric range would be interesting, especially here were that fits in most driving for 80% of the people.

It is funny that tires can always be all over the place. Last year I bought a set of Maxxis tires as they were almost best tested in the German car and driver club (ADAC). They do yearly independent testing. For summer tires: https://www.adac.de/rund-ums-fahrzeug/tests/reifen/sommerreifen/235-55-r17/alle-testergebnisse/ https://www.adac.de/rund-ums-fahrzeug/tests/reifen/sommerreifen/205-55-r16/alle-testergebnisse/ Winter: https://www.adac.de/rund-ums-fahrzeug/tests/reifen/winterreifen/205-55-r16/alle-testergebnisse/ all season: https://www.adac.de/rund-ums-fahrzeug/tests/reifen/ganzjahresreifen/235-55-r17/alle-testergebnisse/ You dont have to understand German language that much, 0 is best, 5 is worst. Test show that all-season is worst in any case. My assumptions are that tires are shipped around the world so europe will get almost the same as in US/CAN. Except that some tires from use are not available in europe or just hard to get, like General tires.

Hop Hop back at the study desk. YOur exam will be on monday! Enjoy

More curious now what caused the clunking. A bad CV will usually only because of wear in one direction (forward). Since this is both direction it could be something badly assembled or missing in the CV joint.

What car is it. COuld be curious to put a OBD reader on it and see what the ECU sees as temp. Then you can decide if it is Temp sender, wire, grounding or indicator.