rverdoold

You got it converted already?

Is there actually any wear on the inside, maybe the cover touched (has been rubbing) the cam-sprocket. Good no damage to the belt.

The top part snapped off?!? wow Thought most subarus had at least a plastic underbody under the front part of the engine bay. No radiator / fan damage?

I want to change the spark plug wires after 12 years for my 1.6 impreza. I know they have not been over there but the block and heads are the same as a 1.8 only the pistons are different as far as i know (the have the same bore). The 1.6 was shipped in europe from 1992 - 2003 when it got replaced by the 1.5r. The 1.8 was short lived and only found from 1991 - 1996 in impreza and legacy, but that aside. The options I have: Original wires from the dealer: get charged about 30 euros per piece!!!!! Then there is ebay/amazon and other internet shops which offer more friendly prices (about 50 euro a set), but which ones to take. I know it is either OE or NGK, so NGK it is. However they are many different ones: 4 straight coil connectors: NGK FX58 found on us website for 1997 1.8 impreza L 2 straight and 2 bend coil connectors: NGK RC-FX49 http://www.ngkntk.nl/nl/productzoeker/produktfinder/PKW/ZUENDKABEL/SUBARU/IMPREZA%2BSTUFENHECK%2B%2528GC%2529%2B1.6%2BI/RC-FX49/18643/ 2 straight and 2 bend coil connectors: NGK RC-FE39 http://www.ngkntk.nl/nl/productzoeker/produktfinder/PKW/ZUENDKABEL/SUBARU/IMPREZA%2BSTATION%2BWAGON%2B%2528GF%2529%2B1.6%2BI%2B4WD/RC-FE39/18638/ 4 straight coil connectors for 1995 1.8 and all 2.0: NGK RC-FX31 http://www.ngkntk.nl/nl/productzoeker/produktfinder/PKW/ZUENDKABEL/SUBARU/IMPREZA%2BSTUFENHECK%2B%2528GC%2529%2B1.8/RC-FX31/18645/ Did the heads change during the times for the soch. I know my old 2.0 from 1991 had the spark plugs under an angle from the top. My 1.6 the spark plugs are in line with the pistons so they go middle in the valve cover. And besides from the rather empty engine bay they are definitely straight from the coilpack

Was it also not that motors driven by chain rather than a belt need thinner cold start oil because the chain also runs in an oil bath.

At sea level here and temperatures between 40 and 85 F I try to have between 37 and 39 PSI in 205/55 R15. At winter between -30 and 40 F I have between 34 and 37 PSI, if I need more grip I reduce to 28 to 30 PSI in 185/65 R14. I check sub-weekly since I have notice one of my summer tires is deflating slowly. And it makes a big bang on the fuel economy!! My summer tires have a max inflation of 55 PSI stated on the side. I assume that above that = over inflation. I am doing this for the last 5 years and never seen weird tread wear on any tire. This on a 1999 impreza bi-fuel so extra 60 to 80 kg on the rear axle for the propane tank.

It has already been proven here that VW is not making cars to last long, but only appear superb on the emission marks. The 1.2 and 1.4 TSI have cracked heads as does the 2.0 TDI, in long term tests. BWM and merc are doing much better from the german brands on reliability but for many many reasons I would not want one of those (merc could still). But all that counts here in Holland is the CO2 per km on paper, so most people get tiny car and then drive it such way the CO2/km is nearly twice as what it can be. A big fail by the government. ... 5k miles is different in km, I usually stick between 10 and 12.5k km and then just a weekend when the weather is nice. There are months I drive 4000 km and there are ones where maybe 400. Problem here is, holland is a plain rip-off country thanks to ebay i can get the same parts cheaper from UK where the subaru community is much bigger.

I never fully understood those interval differences between USA and Europe In USA everybody (well not everybody but ok) changes the oil between 3.5 and 5k miles. While in Europe for subaru 8k is recommended (not mentioning VW weird nearly 19K miles). I usually stick with 7.5K. So oil changes are more frequent. But timing belt here is 60k and there 100k (or not). I know driving conditions are different, but there it is Hot and cold too. And I would say less stop and go traffic (that is why it is hard to find cruise control on any car from before 2002).

Spray some WD-40 at the U hook area, wait few moments and then try opening it while pushing on the hatch down, then pull strong. I had it once, it was stuck because of some wood (blame the dog who took it in) and the hatch opened driving over a speed bump.

Those wheels look Mad!!! 'Go away or I'll run over you' Unfortunately the General Grabber AT2 does not fit on the stock impreza in 15''

So here she is: A 1999 Impreza plus 1.6 AWD. The 1.6 was the basic version with no airbags, ABS or A/C. But with dual range gearbox. The engine is bi-fueled with LPG using direct injection. Now about 76k miles (I got her 2 years ago with 30k miles) Here in Latvian winter at 0 F searching for christmass tree in the forest Using my winter tyres on 14 inch alloys i got for free (in mint condition) just moved my winter tyres from steel to alloy Long wide white roads in Latvia Getting propane at low temperatures is nice because it fits more and you get more. Not being bothered about the back of the car Latvian midsummer decoration. With 80% dirt roads and some rain it got nicely dirty. Here on summer rims 15 inch. No interiour shots, it is just so standard.

I am not a sedan lover, but this model subie sedan looks superB in that blueish purple and in some orange golden (dunno the real colour name). Will have to make some images of my car.

maybe you can find (at least here we have them) companies that deal in tires. So they recycle and sell new + second hand tires. Maybe he has something laying with matching radius in 175 so you can try.

You mentioned, however I think that there will be no big difference in fuel consumption between 175 and 185 or rolling resistance. The other thing is that I run 205-55-15 in summer and 185-65-14 in winter (nearly same rotation) and do only notice a little increase in winter. Which I address to colder weather. Ok I admit that it does not take in account the improved fuel consumption because of the smaller tire, but in warm winters (not freezing) it was the same, may +/- 3% max and that is for 205 to 185. Therefore my opinion about 175 to 185. I do notice that the 185 winter tires tend to slide and skid easier on wet roads (no abs) although I am comparing two complete different types of tires. I feel more confident taking a corner fast in the wet with the 205 then the 185.

It would not be for the Germans to have sought this out of course!!! Oh well, unfortunately the pdf is in german. But: http://www.adac.de/_mm/pdf/Breit_oder_schmal_23603.pdf But if you look at the image at the bottom the + - and average symbols everybody understands (i hope). This is about summer tires done in 2009. Dimension is same as in english, brand does not matter all michelin. Nasse (bremsen, handling und kreis) = Wet road (braking, handling and turning) Aquaplanning (langs, quer) = aquaplanning (streight and diagonal) Trocken = dry road braking and handling Komfort (vederung) = comfort and suspending (guess lower tyre is really bad in this). Gerausch = is noise in and outside roll wiederstand = is rolling resistance They did not test the 175 but honestly I dont think there will be a huge difference with the 185, except that on wet roads you are pretty screwed. I will have to buy new tires next year and this test made me go for 195-65-15 instead of the 205-55-15 i have now. I prefer to have little more response compared to little more fuel consumption. I think it is way more important to have the right tire pressure. I run always at 2.8 bar = about 40 psi in the 205 tires. My winter tires are 185-65-14 and run on 2.5 bar = 36 PSI. I notice milage difference when tires are about 4 to 8 psi under the usual.

better grip on ice and snow I assume. I was looking for 175 but could not find them in 70 high with right load marking (only 82, i want 89 or higher) so went with 185 in 65 high.

Ozone i would not do it will rust your car. Suffocating not a bad idea, park the car in closed garage and start it, when it dies there is also not enough O2 for the mice. Then open all doors to outside and WAIT some time before going in.

Subaru and other japanese manufactures uses fish oil for the same reason. I had lots of problems with spark plug wires being eaten by rodents. Until I installed a ultra high pitch sounder in the engine bay. It is always on (well every 5 sec or so). And had never problems since. These things are called Marderschreck in Germany, have no idea if they are available in us. Sold on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.nl/KFZ-Ultraschall-Marderschutz-Marderscheuche-Marderschreck-Kemo-M100N-NEU-/290607675652?pt=DE_Autoteile&hash=item43a9913904#ht_638wt_905

Could it be europe motors have different heads, because all I have seen here are HLA or screw adjustable valves. Only the turbo WRX has buckets.

The 2.5D was only available in the normal outback 2.5 (we had outback 2.2 as well) but they are quite rare over here because they costed a lot. Basically we had 1.6 and 1.8 (same engine, different pistons) the 2.0 and 2.2. The 2.5 is rare.

Subaru most likely does not have valve issues. However there are basically 3 adjustment systems: 1 = the HLAs as in the 1st gen, 2 = standard valve adjustment rings and 3 = adjustment shim/plates. As fas as I remember the # 3 is used in the turbo models and can not be adjusted, you will have to remove the cams to change the plates. But most likely you have a 2.0 with # 2 valve system. The valve lubrication is for engines which were not designed to last or to run on LPG, e.g., the VW 1.4 FSI needs it but the old 1.6 not. Fiat has no problems because the LPG cars have different heads. On subaru I have seen it only on 1 turbo, but subaru NL says the turbo or the 6 cyl can not run on LPG, or at least should not. Try to have the connector made in the bumper or properly. Mine (dutch system) was made in the side and started rusting after 2 years, so took it out and resprayed it properly.

GPL, LPG it is all the same. The contents varies on the temperature 40/60, 50/50 or 60/40 mix of propane/butane. I was in Italy in August for holidays and had not problems whatsoever. I have the tank installed instead of the spare wheel and costed 1650 euro including re-registration and complete installation. Problem in holland is the differences in road tax for gasoline, diesel or LPG. The latter is higher, after 38000 km I paid off the installation and all more KM are bonus and cheaper. Well that was 1 year for me so no problemo. I know vialle and Landi have direct injection systems. The only thing you hear are the piezo injectors ticking at idle. Are you planning to use Valve lubrication, like Tuneap? I know for lots of cars it is used but never seen it with any subaru. Our 2.5 outback (2005) also did not had the system and drove fine for 200k km (we sold it). Did you had a subaru before on propane, I can send some images of the system. Problem with methane or natural gas is that it can not be liquefied (well it can but not as easy) like LPG so you only get half the distance on the same tank size. Plus it is harder to get compared to LPG/GPL. Ah, it was not me speaking Italian, I know the basics for holiday including; getting food, most important espresso and cappuccino and above all Gelato.

Kick that trunk monkey and his whole gang off the back of the car!! I know that (or it seems) subaru vacumises the tank (at least when I open the filler it always sucks air in). Could it be that there is a vacuum leak then.

Buongiorno Which propane systems are possible in Italy. I have a Landi LSI system from Landi (Luccio autogas). This is Vapour Sequential Injection system is similar to direct injection as gasoline or common-rail diesel. I have it installed on a 1.6 impreza and have valves adjusted every 30k km. Have a 52 L tank and manage 9l/100km on mixed highway or even 8l/100km when driving carefully.

I had no troubles climbing 8500 feet mountain pass at 12% increase in 90 F with the mixture i described earlier.