rverdoold

I replaced all the coolant. You can not mix them well. Standard these cars are shipped for -38 C (about -36 F). So that should be fine. I changed it to -55 C (-67 F) because it can get cold in Scandinavia in winter. I mixed pure blue stuff with distilled water, I aimed for -45 but got mixing somewhat higher. I tested it at work in -80 C freezer and it got slushy at -70 but never got crystals.

Does anybody know if there is a 220v version, I have never found one in europe.

My old legacy did not have a front underbody plate, rust killing loads of things on the bottom side of the engine. However my 99 impreza has a plate from front bumper to engine mount bracket I have significant less rust under in the engine bay. Thanks for the info, will have look at them.

You mean the door lock switch on the inside of the door. When I push it feels like I am turning the cylinder. Although when I push that one all other doors lock as well. So it is actuating. Really do not want to open the door and see there is one.

Happens, but for sure it will never happen again now

Did you clean the rotors with brake cleaner or any other super oil/fat remover?

It is very common problem on subarus just watch the 'Engineering the world rally' from discovery channel in 2006 or 2007. (should not be that common, maybe animal liked to sit there)

I was thinking of installing key-less entry system. However does the driver door has an actuator with standard all-door locking system?

size should be 14.5 by 6.5 inches. Is standard air filter for subaru. Any car parts shop should have it.

Can you give some extra hints. Model and Engine type. As far as I know Subaru used two types of air filters. Rectangular one (# AA070) directly mounted before the throttle body. And one more squarish (#AA020) mounted in a box on the passenger side crashbeam/wheelarch however you name that place between the headlight and the shockmount. And aperently the newer legacy/outback have also one (#16546AA10A)

Still think it is bad contact, most likely the seats. Would not harm to have a look under the seat where the wires go in. I am not sure but the seat pressure sensor (detects if a person is on the seat) is regulated by the airbag system. Not fully sure if subaru has a double system. 1 to show the seatbelt light and one that determines the weight of the person for airbag staging and timing. We had a problem with a Citroen car and side airbags and cables. Fixed it by cleaning the connector and putting a ring of duct tape around to make sure they would not loosen again.

Did you clean the inside where the slide pint goes in. First I cleaned it whit a rag and screwdriver but that did not do what I wanted. The old grease had become very hard. So I used a drill almost matching the size of the hole and turned it carefully by hand, till the old stuff was out. Then added pure ethanol to dissolve things left, one more time with drill. Bit more ethanol and then with the rag again. It was full of rubbish. After that they slide smooth.

Rusted slide pins are a horror too. I once needed an hour and a teflon hammer (teflon ends) to undo my jammed slide pins. Since then abnormal hot wheels any more. Not sure if you can use copper grease for the slide pins. I used some special brake grease, resisting high temperatures. Some types of grease damage rubber shoes around the slide pins.

Could be there is a loose contact. Since the 2008 model has seat mounted side airbags it could be that by moving the seat for and backwards something happened with the connector. I think 2008 cars are still under warranty, a code readers should be able to figure out what error code is given.

You really need the 0-W30. Ifso 0-W40 would be better option because it still can be used in summer as well (depending how hot the summer is). But full synthetic 5-W40 I used last year in -30 C scandinavian winter and now in +35 C italian summer in the mountains as well. No problems whatsoever.

Are you sure the valves are not deteriorating or leaking on the alloy wheels. Valves can easily be replaced by deflating and pushing the tire in (well yes for a tire shop, unless you have a large soft bar to push the tire in) 1: Yes alloy wheels can be fixed, usually they are sanded and acid treated before repainting them. This is quite costly over here in europe. 2: Why would there be an offset, just get 5x100 (think for 99 models) steel rims from junkjard, clean them and even respray them in the colour you like. Lugnuts you can reuse from the current wheels or get them from a dealer/webshop/ebay.

Car technician friend once told me that a minuscule little amount of play is necessary in the wheel bearing to make the disc 'wobble' a bit enough to push the pads back in order to avoid brake dragging. Did you replace brake pads too? Maybe your brake pistons are rusted and stuck in the seal rings.

How does the ECU know a misfire occurred at a specific cylinder? My impreza 1.6 was missing a lot in the morning. I know the sparkplug cables are getting old because it only happens once in a while (1 week, sometimes overnight) it has been standing for some time in the rain. When it heats up (5 km) it is running as it should. It is very occasionally. However it is hard to get hands on a set of original subaru spark leads because dealers = stealers over here (well most of them, they charge 25 euros/ a cable). However until now I never ever got a CEL with a misfire code, only once the knock sensor. So what does the ECU thinks is a misfire? (additionally, can I use NGk wires those i can easily get?)

What size range you have your mind on. The SX4 is in europe a small family in US it is a mini I think. Larger cars with (automatically)-switchable 4wd will be SUVs like Nissan Murano, Xtrail (not sure if on US market) and the rogue (quashqai in europe). Toyota has the matrix awd as mini then, and some bigger ones as well. I think most awd systems on the market are 95% fwd with an oil friction system. A disadvantage of that any awd system powered or not is the energy needed to turn drive shafts. As far as I know that can only be switched off in some pick-up trucks to the front. Here is 100k test of the quasqai/rogue in germany googletranslated:http://translate.google.com/translate?sl=de&tl=en&js=n&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&layout=2&eotf=1&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.autobild.de%2Fartikel%2Fdauertest-nissan-qashqai-1012065.html&act=url It was the better SUV tested so far, it scores somewhat better then average

There is the climbing (most simple version) and the cross (same as sedici with lockable center diff and LSD in the back). But these days, mileage is the biggest selling point (use to be safety but that is sorted more/less now). Bigger cars usually do not have good mileage however I get about 30 mpg on propane and 35 on normal fuel with an 1.6 impreza 5spd if I take it easy. 24 mpg if drive faster on highways (difference between 59 and 71 m/h) (top gear is way better then 5th gear but they made the video) The sx4 awd system in lock seems to work quite good. The car itself is also relatively light.

Most 'cheap' 4x4 use a oil-friction locking system and are fwd most of the time. The SX4 is quite popular in europe and so is the fiat clone (well developed together). I drove the fiat panda 4x4 (no you are not looking for a tiny italian car), but must admit that the 4wd was working pretty well in slippery conditions. But still it is not a permanent system. If you are not focused on subaru (but you should not!!!) you can look at VW passat synchro and that is where it ends. Forget the volvos their awd system is no where near the subaru system. An 2000+ outback is nice keeping in mind the 2.5 HG issue is solved, the 4th gen (2003-2008) is very good. just for fun: But it will get very good milage.

It is annoying indeed. I was looking for new tires but decided to postpone it an other year by putting my winter tires on there for MOT check and then back to summer tires for 1 more month and then back to winter tires till the end of next summer. Then the winter tires will be shot as well. It is kind of evading spending money

Is the measurement performed on a warm or cold engine/CAT? Unburned fuel comes from continious correction from the O2 sensor after the first cat. If the car is warm (actually it shows with 2500 rpm run) that the emmissions are fine. I think the idle rpm is low. Changing sparkplugs to NGK or bosch might indeed help. Cheaper plugs (I consider NGK as not expensive) may have poor insulation 'leaking' spark energy hence poor fuel burn follows to low idle (although the computer should correct for this)

It is a liability issue, however having a tire blow-out at >110 mph, you will be lucky to survive it. I am not sure if the rubber compound is different between H and T but for sure the strength of the canvas carcass is. Additionally a higher speed rated tire most likely also has a higher load index (side wall strength). If you are not a fast driver then get the slower rated tires. But you will have to state it when you sell the car on that it has under qualified tires. Here in Holland it is out of the question, a shop will never ever fit under rated tires. In Germany you can not even get other sizes than stated in the car document.

We had a 2005 Legacy Outback 2.5 automatic converted to LPG (direct injection). With the build in navigation system and sun/moonroof. If you are taller then 1m90cm then look for one without the sunroof. I (1.92) always had the idea that my head was very close to the roof lining. A problem with the series (recall) was the rear-door locking mechanism but that is checked with most of them. It was one of the few cars we bought new and drove 170k KM with without any weird malfunctions or breakdowns/problems except one wheel bearing started making noise and 2 LPG injectors were shot. A good car (we did it away since it was a company car and we sold the company)