rverdoold

it was cold in the morning I filled, about 18 deg C, later on the day about 29. Plus the heat from the diff and exhaust (i lost a piece of heat shield of about 3 by 8 inches have to figure out from where)

Just got back from my trip to the Alps and got to a little smelly problem. I drive a 1999 1.6 impreza which has a bi-fuel system with direct injected propane (or LPG). For starting I use gasoline till the cooling water reached a certain temperature and then the computer switches off the fuel system and continues with propane. However in Italy there is a village named Livigno and they sell normal gasoline almost half the price of where I live (tax free). So I filled it up completely at 3280 feet altitude. I continue my trip into Swiss over a mountain pass at 7200 feet and the car starts to smell of gasoline at the rear. I switched to run on gasoline to what I think to release the pressure in the system. Does gasoline expands at higher altitudes, enough to overflow or at least smell a lot?

It is always nice that when you use loads of force and they come loose your hand bumps into any sharp object around (especially when it is cold). So I wear heavy duty working gloves, I have found pliers to damage them if you want to re-use them.

On the Plus side a FWD does not have torque bind I managed to get 28 mpg with a 2.0 in a legacy wagon automatic. (now have 1.6 MT and get about 33 mpg highway with awd impreza wagon) So the 1.8 is good and rocksolid like the 2.2

Light coloured cars look awesome with black wheels. And fresh (blue, yellow) coloured cars look good with white wheels. I would go with the black ones (

Could it be there is a vacuum leak in the system? Testing as Nipper described should show if the booster is wrong. However I thought that after pumping the brakes you need to keep the pedal pressed and then start. It should move to the floor.

I had my cable was not smooth at the pedal side where it goes into the sleeve through the firewall. Every time I wanted to leave a roundabout (yes Europe) I pushed the pedal and click past the 'sticking' racing style not that I really wanted that. I re greased the cable with Vaseline (or any other acid free grease, copper grease might do as well) and graphite powder. This worked well for few years.

Sorry you are right it is holts!!!

Bar's stop leak to be more precise. But yes it is indeed a rebranded stop leak.

Was the Bar's leak stop not exactly the same as the 'subaru' coolant additive? And should therefore not give any problems I would say. The reason for the additive was to pass the magic warranty range on the 2.5 before the HG would leak badly. (or am i wrong?)

Is that bar not nearly on top of the gearbox? Must have been a big rock then Hammer the tool of choice!

I think it is the tube for intake when the external system is closed. So nice if you have sweaty feet .

In the off-road camper we have there are also two batteries. However!!! The main battery is used for the car, running starting ect. and the second for the camper (lights, fridge ect.) But we never want the camper to drain the car battery so starting would be impossible. To arrange that we have put a diode-bridge in between. So first alternator charges the main, then the second. So then it is 1 by 1 and not 2 at the same time. We have a jump cable + dash switch in between (via a relay) to jumpstart from the 2nd battery. In your case you might want to put the amp on the second battery only and have a diode bridge in between preventing your amp runs the main battery empty.

Or you can buy a 10 dollar OBD to USB cable from dealextreme and hook it up to a laptop using freeSSM to read/clear codes or Romraider to monitor and store live data from the ecu. It works on my subaru select (non-OBD) european impreza

WOWOW that is unfair, here they charge 20 euros then you get all rubber parts a rebuild cost 200 euros which is insane i agree!! I really should make a shopping list for next time I cross the ocean.

I have ruined a set of brake pads within 10k miles because the slide pin was stuck AND the brake piston was not going back anymore (driver side front). So now at every oil change I take the brake pads out and check the slide pins. It is rather easy: Remove the wheel and screw 2 lug nuts back to keep the disc positioned. Undo the 14 mm bolt at the bottom-back side of the caliper house and fold the caliper up (a little gentle hit with a teflon hammer might be required). Remove the brake pads on both sides and lower the caliper and mount back the 14 mm bolt. Now you should be able to move the caliper back and forward easily (slide pin operation). If not then one of the slide pins is stuck, undo the lower 14 mm bolt and pull the slide pin out with a bit of care at the dustcover which is just hooked on the edge. You really have to clean the slidepin hole very good with a stembrush (to clean bottles and pipes). And so for the top one you can leave the caliper hanging on the spring of the car. The lower slide pin had some sort of rubber endcap, I removed this one because i think it was the cause of the problem. I used special brake lubricant to put them back in. No copper grease here!!! Because this was not all of my problems i popped the brake piston out as well and honed the cylinder and cleaned the rust from the piston, regreased and put it back together. (before you take the brake piston out check if the bleeding valve opens) I guess you can also get re-manufactured calipers but here that is rather rare (holland).

ah, studs and struts. Should read better I put special springs which become stiffer when more load is on the car (due to 52 liter propane tank at the spare tire place)

Did you install the spacers on all struts? It indicates that for 1/2 spacers you need longer struts, however this thing mounts between the strut and the car so you only have less thread to mount the strut tower to the car or am i wrong. What struts would you put then, forester?

I agree, have a first gen (second facelift) impreza plus, it is just a japanese car like the others from 1994 to 2000 (toyota and nissan). Just good build quality but just missing those tiny design bits as we could see on the french and italian cars from that time. On the other hand my first gen Legacy was very ahead in 1991 when we got it. But in my opinion the impreza and legacy models all look different from the time series. If you look at a VW polo (euro), golf or passat all (yes ALL) the models look nearly exactly the same as the previous version. I liked the previous version of the impreza and this was is ok was well.

It is an ok car, it will drive fine most likely and with a good mpg rating. Hopefully the STI/WRX will get a bit more the look that scares the heck out of the little stones in the asphalt, afraid of being ripped apart with that massive grip.

Why would you want to mount the door mirror like that, it just does not look strong. Sorry, sorry 2012!! Cars are built to last anymore they just should have some looks, preferably a like the others on the market. I now get 28 mpg on propane and 34 on gasoline with a EJ161 and MT. For Europe the really should downsize those engines otherwise they can forget selling any. Oh wait that is why we have the 1.5 front wheel drive, then you are better of with anything cheaper than a Subaru.

Is the radiator getting hot? Maybe the thermostat is not working properly and it only has the short loop. Or the radiator pressure cap is faulty.

Nice shot!! Now one at night with bulb exposure of 1 min or so. Or with lightning.

an other option of software is Romraider, also for linux http://www.romraider.com/RomRaider/Download It suppose to do logging and looks nice from the screenshots. I have not tried this one yet but will soon. OK could not wait, so just checked romraider and also worked directly. This program can nicely log data, show in graph and cool gauges perhaps you want to check that as well

well your thingy is bluetooth so all you will have to do is pair it with the pc/tablet as a bluetooth serial port then you will get a port number which you can fill in in the program which indeed runs on linux i guess (i use windows). For me it worked straight away, only did not recognise the vin code maybe because it is european.