rverdoold

Video is rather dead! Every scooter over here uses a cvt annoyingly because the kids can do only one thing. Full throttle = full rpm for all the time = tons of noise. Interestingly the CVT is not an option in Holland, sorry it is only in the outback

OK it is around 10 to 20 F here and when i start it starts ok and then runs at around 300 rpm or so (lets put it that way NOT smooth). Then I shut it off and start directly again. It runs at the first revolution of the starter motor. Then it jumps to 1500 rpm slowly going back to 1200 rpm as it should i think. Why i have no idea. If I move the pedal a bit it does not like it. I changed the sparks abou 2k ago to the NKG standard running on propane but starting on standard gazoline. THe only thing i can think of is that the fuel injectors might be dirty from the driving on propane however that burns hotter and cleaner than normal fuel.

Otherwise the oilpump becomes lazy

What is wrong using 5w40 instead then. It is a very wide range oil fully synthetical though. Using it now without troubles from -30F to 65F (have not had hotter temperatures yet). I noticed that the cold weather knocking became a lot shorter and less loud.

Now driving in Latvia in the middle of the winter hitting easily -20 C at night. Warming up for 1 minute or so. I have a carton board covering about 70% of the radiator to reduce the overcooling at 100 km/h. Have not any scientific info if it is worth it. However the needle stays werever it was so it is not overheating.

My 91 legacy wagon failed MOT because of that rust. Outside looked really nice just very few rust spots. But could stick my whole hand in the holes where the struttower connects the chassis. I replaced the springs on my 99 impreza wagon cleaned it completely and put the proper black tar on it everywhere. It is the only thing i can come up with.

Our German friends posted a new test for larger 215 tires: http://www.adac.de/infotestrat/tests/reifen/winterreifen/2010_Winterreifen_Test_225_45_R17.aspx?ComponentId=40334&SourcePageId=31821 And somewhat smaller: http://www.adac.de/infotestrat/tests/reifen/winterreifen/2010_Winterreifen_Test_185_65_R15.aspx?ComponentId=40327&SourcePageId=31821 Keep in mind that a 0.1 in germany is best and 5 is worst!! Only have no idea if you can get those in US and Canada Other translations: ADAC-Urteil = Auto and driver association rank Trocken = dry asphalt surface Nass = Whet asphalt surface Schnee = snow on asphalt Eis = iced road on asphalt Gerausch/komfort = tire noise and comfort Krafstofverbrauch = fuel consumtion Verschleiss = wear 0.1 is slow, 5 is fast

Looks nice, miss my 91 legacy in white Unfair you Americans get: AC, Cruise and ABS nearly as standard. Make Mr. Roo his life nice

It is rather simple More efficient drivetrain. Less energy is wasted on slipping clutch (to maintain same speed). And more bhp comes out when engine compresses better (leaking valves). Although I think valves are not making a gigantic change. Well done!!! Always nice when the fuel prices are rising againg (at least in Europe they are)

Haven't looked at it that way, you got a point. I have one slow leaking tire. Advantage is that i know it and check the weekly (does not leat that quick) and keep tires on pressure. It is already doing this for 5 years and they are nearly gone so checking what to buy next after winter when the summer season starts again.

Of course it is true to have 4 matching tires but, the front diff is open so if the front left tire has a different inflation than the front right will it be a big issue. Since that differences is handled by the front diff? Same for the rear wheels. My rear diff is open so center diff is only harmed if both my rear tires are bigger then both front ones. (this is what i am thinking but is this true????)

I would advise to also lube the slide pins once you have them nearly open. I did that today and the lower ones on both sides where nearly stuck. It took me 1 hour to get one out. Unfortunately you can not use coppergrease in here. I got ceramic high temp grease for that.

Think it might be wise to change the oil and both flex hoses in the front. However those things go not for under 50 euros per piece ($70), WHY? in US the cost only 30 dollars. For brake fluid which one to use Dot 3, 4 or 5. and how to proceed. And how much goes in the brake system, it does not look a lot to me I think. Just open one bleeder and keep adding new till it is clean what runs out. Then Proceed with the others. Secondly, if the cap on the master cylinder is closed will the system drain when I remove a flex hose?

At the moment at 96k and had to make emergency stop in order to not damage my hood with a cyclist (his fault but still do not want to hit him). There is no abs so wheels locked, ok. When i drove away it felt a bit heavier, driving at highway speeds of 60 mp/h the steering started to shake (never had that before) and i stopped on the shoulder. Left fron wheel was boiling hot even some light smoke came off. Front right and back were fine. Lifted the car with the jack and turned the wheel for and backward. I could see the outer pad being free now. Drove 30 miles home without a problem. However at home the left front wheel was still significantly warmer than the right (spraying water on right left a film of water, on the left it evaporated off with some sizzing). I think the caliper might be stuck a little bit and going to take it off tomorrow. Anything I should look at? Normally I remove the lower bolt and fold the caliper up to check the brake pads. (now the brake pads can move freely in the holder, I removed a bit from the ears 5K ago) What will happen when i press the brake a little little bit when not mounted. I suppose the caliper comes out somewhat further. This will allow me to clean the caliper shaft and grease it with copperstuff. Secondly could old brake oil cause these probles with only 1 wheel. Can I test the oil. Since I have no idea how to replace it. Earlier it was said a worn flexhose could be causing sticking brakes. How can this happen I can not really visualize/understand how? Can you help me!?

A colleague of mine had problems with his forester gearbox getting into 4th gear and now all synchros are gone. He has a 2000 2.0 normal forester with gearbox SG TY755XS1AA. He would like to replace it with the SR TY755XS2AA The only thing i can find is that the 1AA is mounted between mid 99 and mid 2000 and the 2AA is mounted from mid 2000 till 2002. Will these gearboxes be interchangeble (at least the 1AA is a dual-range) The only thing that matters i think is the final drive ratio i think (and dual gearing) Will the final drive of a forester always be the same? Cheers Remco

Ok figured out something: VSS 1 is mounted on the back of the gearbox. VSS 2 is mounted on the front but not in every country. (looking in wiring diagram shows vss2 is conected via the door system but not in europe). Cruise control module connector B94 should be located in front left footwell. Will check if that is true this weekend. there should be a 20 pin connector. However i count 18 in the haynes manual for the legacy. But that shows it should be a green/black wire somewhere on the side of the connector. I think the cables will be 'hot' because it is just a pulse signal. Or might there be a cable behind the radio, which is used to turn the radio louder with the speed if supported. (read for other car forum)

With my 91 legacy there was a cable comming from the 4eat/front diff, this one i used to grease from time to time with graphite and bit of oil. But now there is just a cap sitting. So i assume the speed is measured at an other place. I was thinking that there might be wires from the ecu to a possible cruise ecu which will be not used since i do not have cruise control. But on this cable should be a VSS (at least i think so). The brands i can get over here are Waeco (is quite good company) and john gold (a dutch supplier of most likely chinese made material). It is fine to install but just the idea that i will have to mount a magnet and a reader on one of the drive axles does not suite me. However i think i will be able to take the signal (it is just 12v pulses i think) from the gearbox if i can find the VSS (or pulsegenerator)

Waking up an old thread Ok thinking of getting an aftermarktet cruisecontrol system. Installing the actuator and electronics seems quite easy. + some wires at brake and clutch pedal. However i need a speed signal! I can wire a cable to an axle and put a magnet around the axle to determine a speed signal. (included in the cruise kit). However is there any cable i can use that gives a speed signal. Preferable i do not like to strip the cable at the ecu. its a about a 1999 impreza 1.6

Funny in holland this is even a part of the theoretical exam for obtaining a driving license. I tried once to replace the indicators with LEDs but they do not draw enough to make relay fully switch and thus blinking quick. So left it as it was.

In my 91 legacy i had a FWD in combination with the 4EAT, when wet i had to be easy on the pedal. Often wheel spin but what i really liked was the way to drive it. The gear of choice could be directed with the kick and position of the right foot. I also manged to drive very economical with it, just get it in locked mode. We used it a lot for pulling and driving in the Alps (brilliant roads in Swiss). Now i have a AWD dual range 5MT with a 1.6 The engine is a bit light i think for the weigth of the car but it drives ok. DR is very nice in off-road and in trafic jams although the clutch is the part which has to cope with that. Somehow i love the lock-up torque converter. Last week i pulled a 1.5 ton trailer using the low gears for getting away with no problems (1.5 ton is more than the car is). But it is more fuel efficient than the 4EAT.

I remember last time and from my previous subie when opening the filler cap it was sucking in air thus the tank was under vacuum. (currently i only get gasoline every 12000 km cause of propane). So maybe it is leaking some vacuum somewhere. As previously stated what happens when you just remove the cap and place it back. or indeed even drive without the cap. Fuel will not be running out i think.

Miata calculator is a brilliant tool. want a bit higher tire as well so most likely will go for the 195-65-15 just will have to see if they fit the steering as well.

Of course would be nice to have them matched, also curious how to. I know on our off-road camper we can read the pulses from the VSS and then simply calculated with the tire diameter the revolutions per km and there you go. It should be possible.

I had two subies with this. On the first one a 91 legacy AT it was touchy in several ways. First the cable of the gas pedal or throttle itself was bit sticky so i had to apply bit more pressure than what would be necessary. So i pressed a bit and did not move pressed bit more, cable got unstock and lift-off. Fixed it by re-greasing the cable (handyoil + graphite) and cleaning the throttle body valve. The second was after driving releasing the pedal would result in some direct shock of slowing down (worn engine mount or other things). The second car a 99 impreza has it when running on gazoline and switching to propane when cold. Usually depress the clutch and increase rpms a bit and then it is over as soon it is a bit warm. Since i started driving on propane it runs a bit less on gazoline. I guess valves have to be adjusted a bit.

My impreza speedo is about 9km (6 m/h) to fast compared to two GPS instruments. The odo is also more, about 2 km per 100 km. The tires i have are 205-55-15 and are far from standard which are 175-70-13 i think (1.6 AWD). However there is a tricky thing with GPS speedo. A GPS can only indicate accurate speed in a straight line with continious identical reception. So if you have a curved road it will most likely indicate less distance in the same time results in lower speed as well. Next tires i will get will be 205-60-15 or even 195-65-15 if they fit with the standard suspension. On our off-road camper it is hooking up to pc and filling in the tire size and it is spot on. I have no idea if it is possible to change gearbox VSS pulses linked to the tire size.