rverdoold

I removed the pressure from the release valve or radiotor cap by putting a piece of wire under the pin. This removed the pressure from the cooling system and drove 50K miles with it without ever filling up the cooling system. I had used bars leak stop once. I think my HG went but i never overheated the car. Stopped driving it after it failed MOT for rust in the back suspension.

Can you not get towbar mounted bike racks in USA those are so much easier and bikes are secured properly. And you can open the tailgate by releasing the centerhook if installed. Like this: http://www.service-on-top.nl/images/EuroWay_F3.jpg I guess it is more Dutch or european to cycle. Here I think 80% of the people have one. Cost between 75 and 300 euros depending on built and amount of bikes. I have one for two and my father for three when we go mountain-biking outside Holland. No problems going 100 mph in germany. At the stop put it down like in the picture and get the food from the trunk.

So took of the wheel today and was not able to easily turn a bit. I could hear the disc scraping the pads. So for sake of testing tested the other side as well. And there was without scraping. So moved over to the left side again. Removed the calliper bolt and removed the first pad. That was worn but still 2 mm left or so. But the inside pad could hardly be removed it was very stuck in the anti rattle clip. Managed to get it out and it was worn but not evenly. The stuck side at least 1 mm more than the other. The grinder pin was almost touching the disc as well so ready for replacement. Took out the clip and bended it a bit so pad would fit normally again. Than had to depress the calliper to get it back on. But to do that i unscrewed the canister but the freaking cap fell of and slide down on top of my underbody protector . So had to screw that one off as well NOOOOO. Ok got it back got the calliper back and put everything together. Of course i undertorqued the calliper holder bolt by 17 Nm (figured that out after driving 30 miles) (got lost in US to Metric conversion). So for the fun can take the wheel off again and uptorque it. Feels like a very bad day. Left the underbody plate off since will change all oils next week for maintenance. Now will have to change pads as well. Question: Can brake drag be caused by the pad stuck in anti-rattle clip?

Sorry for waking up this older thread it had been put in hibernation last winter I guess. As a European i am relative unlucky in choice of product. (which are even very expensive over here). But i can get the Valvoline Synpower 75w-90 full synthetic over here for a slamming 20 euros a liter (about 25 usd per quart). Is this the stuff i want to put in my gearbox and diff??

I bought the car at 59k KM and it is at 85k now. Going to do major service at 88k. I guess it still has its first brake oil in there and first pads as well. Think will take the pads out and regrease the backside with copper grease. Last time i changed brake pads on my previous sub i slowly pushed the piston/cylinder back with the cap from the reservoir. I guess that was the quick and dirty way and incorrect? Flexlines are easy to replace at least they look like that. Is it worth installing speedbleeders?

I have a 1999 impreza wagon 1.6 5MT (front disc rear drum, no ABS) and have the idea one of the brakes are not working as they are designed to do. They stop the car so they do work. However during my last trip throughout europe I had a couple of times the idea i was smelling 'clutch' but it could not have been because it usually happened after driving for some time and then stopping. So I would go for smelling brake. So what did i find out: the front left rim is much more dirty than the right one (in the sense of brake dust) I mean left is nearly black while right is almost clean. The smell was coming from the left wheel side. After stopping the disc heat dispersion on the left felt warmer then on the right (i did not touch the disc to see what degree of burn wound i would get) I have to get the brake pads out but it seemed that left was worn more than right. oil in the reservoir is above half way between min / max Brake booster works (there is vacuum) on sand can lock up bot front wheels (i think, it did not drag the car to one direction) While normal braking to a stop the car is not really dragged/pulled to a direction Any ideas what this could be Could be that the left brake caliper is not retracting enough so the pad stays in contact with the disc and what could cause this? EDIT: As far is i know i do not have a hill-holder (at least then i never got it working)

What tyres are those and what size (on stock wrx suspension?)

You must like the Dutch Some cars look really great in white and so does this one.

I would guess it is either the filler neck or the vent hose. The venthose is located at the right side of the diff at the back side of the tank. (same side as the pump). Once located there is a big hose (filler hose) and on the left of that the vent hose. Both hoses go up and then the vent hose connects at the filler hose nearly under the top. You can try to poke a rubber hose through and make sure there will be no static spark when you do that.

Since I was not sure about them I marked them and with lots of pain got them off. And later on again . For sure next time will replace struts by myself in a weekend. Labour prices are incredible over here.

This weekend I replaced the coil springs with stiffer and slightly longer ones specially made for the impreza. It was not that hard only figured out one strange thing; I was reading some from here and RS25 that the bolt and nut on the bottom side of the strut does the camber position of the wheel itself. I checked mine and both upper and lower bolt were identical and there were no markings on there or anything. I marked them and for the good order put them back as they came out. What I did find was the cap which goes on top of the spring had markings. Namely 4R, FF and 4L. I assumed since this is determining the camber since it was changing the angle of the whole spring strut combination. So for the right I used 4R and for the left the 4L (thinking that FF is front wheel drive). That is also how they came of the car. I made some pictures which I can post later for any interest. The ride hide changed from 16.5 cm to 20 cm (measured at the jackpoint in front of the rear wheels) I have no idea what it should be for an impreza but i guess is that 7.9 inch is quite high.

Indeed that is what I also was thinking. I have played with various settings. Changing interface connection from auto to ISO and others. I also changed PIDs to supported but it did not work for me. The only things which I can think of now is that my Propane ECU is taking over (I have a second ecu for propane injection this one also handles the gasoline injection now). I will ask the manufacturer what it does. Secondly the european ECUs could be different (but I would not think so). Or thirdly there are different cables. I am sure the device works on other cars (toyota, ford and Opel (GM) EDIT: Here I found it my subaru works under ISO 9141-2 (or K-line), this is what linear tronic told me: The ScanGaugeII does not support ISO 9142-2, but does operate on ISO 9141. Your vehicles may not be fully compatible with the ScanGaugeII. So i need a device running on the older (slower) protocol. I heard the KIWI MPG might do that but I need confirmation. I really think there are different ECUs in the world. Probably US, EU and JPN does anybody here know something about this?

I bought a Scangauge-2 for use in my 1999 impreza. However it does not work. Apperently my impreza is SSM (subaru select monitor). There is some freeware software for on internet. Search on subaru select monitor and usb and you will find that openport is a working system. I gave it up. The SC-2 works in other cars so it is not the device.

I do not have a forester but an impreza of the same age with a propane installation instead of the spare tire. I figured out that my car is also sagging a lot especially after I filled up the 48 liters of propane and the still remaining 20 liters or so of gasoline. Few weeks ago I ordered special progressive springs for heavy loading. They are made in holland so no use for you but you can check the google translated website here. http://translate.google.com/translate?js=y&prev=_t&hl=nl&ie=UTF-8&layout=1&eotf=1&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.carsupport.nl%2Fhulpveren.htm&sl=nl&tl=en I have the Pro springs and they are shown in the third graph on the bottom of the page. There you can see the springs act normal until the load gets higher then the resistance (stiffness) also increases. I am sure these springs are also made in the US.

I am already loosing faith in finding any more off-road capable tyres fitting a standard impreza. Pirelli has some in their listing (scorpion ATR 205/60 R15) but they are nowhere to find. I drive almost 80% normal asphalt but the remaining are gravel dirt roads.

Once it is out do not forget to remove those leaves and things in there

Do you have a quick link? I am going to install stiffer springs that hopefully will reduce the sagging.

I am soon in need of new tires. Currently I have 205/55R15 and speedo is off (100 km/h on GPS is about 108 km/h on speedo). It is a 1.6 MT stock impreza the rear springs have been replaced with stiffer ones to reduce the sagging from the propane installation in the boot. It is very hard to find some what more off-road tires for an impreza. Most are for SUVs Until now I found the: Continental Conticrosscontact AT at size 205/65 R15 94T (T is 190 km/h but top speed I got was 174 km/h) And the other I found was the Dunlop SP60 in the same size but 89s so lower load index and speed marking. I have read that people manage to put General Grabber AT 215/75 R15 on a lifted impreza (forester struts) but with rubbing and modifications. I have mudguards and do not want to remove them. Will the 205/65R15 fit without rubbing. (standard should be 175/70R14 but those I do not have anymore) Conticrosscontact AT

Is it? Never knew that. My EJ161 (1.6) holds 4.5 liters (or 4.75 US quartrs) Which is the same amount here for the 1.8 and the normal soch 2.0.

I have a similar effect on my 1.6 99 impreza manual. However mine is running on Propane, but starts on gasoline. So basically a full gasoline tank lasts for about 12000 km. I figured out that the problem is mostly there when the gasoline tank is getting empty. It starts fine and jumps to 1500 rmp then drops to 1200 and then to sort of 300. When i apply some throttle it jumps to 1500 and stays there for a sec or 2 then back to 1100 and runs fine. (occasionally it jumps to 3000 after starting for some seconds). I think it is because i run propane and when the engine is shut off (from propane) the fuel lines are low and it takes more time for the fuel pump to give gasoline just before the start. I tried to turn on/off the key before starting it. Just to get some more gasoline pressure on the fuel line. But i am not sure it it helped. You can try that perhaps. After i have driven 5 meters it runs fine and switches to propane after approx 1 km without any hesitation or problems. I have read it could be the temp sensor for the ECU, the throttle position sensor and some more things. good luck

Does this car has a seatbelt pre-tensioner? Or is it a automatic belt with lap-belt? Because the canister in the door pillar (whatever you name it in English).

In europe the intervals are longer 7 to 9000 miles for subaru, and VAG group even says that with long-life oil it lasts 20000 miles in their VW and Audis. I always changed with semi-synthetic 5W40 or 10W40 every 7500 miles as long the oil was rated API-SL. I have seen an interview with an ex-worker of a dutch oil company which had ran a car for twenty years only short distances and they never had replaced the oil. Only the filter every 7500 miles and it ran for 120k miles no problems were found. Still curious about a scientific research for this.

It should come out upwards once the bolt has been removed. It could be quite stuck though. Try to give it some turning and pulling upwards. I would not spray anything on it because it is nearly directly above the timing belt (where for sure you don't want oil on).

How warm is it over there. I remember it took me 15 to 20 km to get it locked when temperature was around 0 C. (Of highway driving). And that was normal operation. I used to check it by giving little press on the accelerator the rpm would just increase 50 to 100 when not locked. When locked it just stayed where it was.

In holland are the current: Impreza: 1.5R, 2.0R, 2.0sport Forester: 2.0 and 2.0 turbo Legacy: none So basically all 5m/t have a dual range and no diesel and no 6 speed. This always have been like that. So should be able to import a gearbox