rverdoold

wow, did not know propane could be used as refrigerant. Always love technical explanations . The LPG is in liquid form in the tank and also drawn as a liquid, but before injection it is changed to gaseous state. Since each cylinder has its own injector it is injected directly above the valve. This reduces the change of backfires. This can occur when the LPG is injected as single point injection or even worse as carburettor system. I looked up the manufacturer of the system and they say it eliminates the oil dilution by gasoline and no more wash down on the cylinder walls. This would then explain the lower oil consumption

Is there water in the oil? passed by a faulty seal on the dipstick or not fully closed filler cap. Also check the powersteering oil.

The system is a Bi-fuel so the cold start is always on 95 octane gasoline (unless i force it to start on propane). After 2, 3 minutes the system switches to LPG. This switching is based on RPM, coolant temp and some other variables. So when engine is warm it starts on gasoline and then switches in few seconds. Propane is injected on top of the intake valve on the intake manifold by piezoelectric injectors. The time of injection is crucial and controlled by a second ECU which stops the gasoline part of the car-ECU. In general the burn of LPG is hotter than the gasoline burn, therefore valves and valve rings (seats) have to be harder or will just wear quicker. It is advised to not pass 4k RPM. Last week i was for a 1000 mile trip in Germany and drove 90 to 100 m/h for 2 hours (then stop and refuel LPG not that tank was empty but just a rest). The consumption of LPG then was approx 22 MPG, (at 55 m/h it is 30 on LPG and 34 on gasoline). I love the LPG because it is very cheap in europe (around 5 eurocents per km). It burns very clean I never pull full through the RPMs and drive efficient perhaps this also influences the oil consumption. I checked again this morning it was about 2 tens of the second hole (dividing the distance between holes in 10 parts). This should be arround 200 ml over 10000 km.

We all know that subie boxers consume some oil. My gen 1 legacy used about half a litre (quarter) per 2000km (1600 miles). However my 1.6 impreza on propane hasn't used any in 10000km (6000 miles) or nearly none. It only ran no 70k km mainly highway. The dealer replaced oil last time and said he used high quality semi synthetic oil. Could not consuming oil be bad??

You can disconnect the fuel line at the filter and then hotwire the fuel pump in the boot. This is how I removed the 6 galons of fuel left in my 91 legacy before it had to go to the scrapyard.

Assuming subaru would not change it Europe. But i really can not imagine a Japanese manufacturer would change their whole computer support and error system for each continent. I will have to check the pins that are present in the connector.

So what settings I should use: Protocol = ISO and PIDS = supported Any other reasons why it might not work. (will have to try an other car though as well)

I asked it before because i had a 1991 legacy which had OBD1. 1995 is still bit on the edge of having version 1 or 2. I might have it try to see if you have the self test connectors 2 black (and 2 green) under the dash. If the black are connected the CEL will flash codes then most likely it is OBD1.

Sorry to wake up this thread!! However since i got a 1999 impreza plus (with ej161) i got myself a scangauge2 as well. I also had my car converted to LPG (propane today) and also got the scangauge today. I connected the plug in the socket under the fusebox lid on the kneebolster. It looked like an OBD2 plug and it fitted however i can not get the scangauge to work. I tried to change the settings to AUTO, ISO and some other protocols but nearly sure it is the ISO one. Then i tried the PIDS to supported but it also did not help. It keeps showing 'connecting' on the display. Anybody any ideas. Ah i also tried to run on gasoline and on LPG. when driving on LPG the fuel injection system is shut down and LPG is injected. However i do not expect the ECU to be turned off during driving on LPG.

Will have to check for wireharnass, were should the cruise computer be fitted, passenger footwell??

Seems simple, however over here Subaru is not a popular brand and finding one at a scrapyard is similar as searching for the needle in the haystack. They are Very rare over here. Dealer is asking 550 euros for OEM cruise kit, this is a lot of money for cruisencontrol.

I have a 1.6 MT 5sp 1999 impreza and would like to install cruise control and keyless entry. For the cruisecontrol: Going to choose for an electric system since this will eliminate the vacuum system. However I will have to install a clutch switch, a computer and a button. However i also need a VSS (speed sensor). I suppose this car has an electronic VSS (since i could not find any tachocable from gearbox. So where can i find the VSS cable. Or is this one free in the wireharnass (can i assume that if the harnass has CC in there the VCC cable is indeed connected to the VCC, or would i have to take the signal from the ECU). Installing a clutch switch will not be the biggest problem, and for the brake signal can i tap the the current brake switch cable or should i install an additional switch? For the keyless entry: I was planning to get a simple system (from ebay). However i have read that the drivers door is not a motor only an actuator. Meaning i would have to replace the driversdoor actuator to an actuator/motor! are these aftermarket actuator/motors standard shaped or brand depended (like http://www.emiata.com/images/2WireActuator.JPG or http://www.thetwistergroup.com/store/image.php?imagefile=D%3C%3E524N.JPG) Or is there a 2wire actuator present in the 1999 car also if they were not fitted with keyless entry system.

It is already going on for some time over here. However you don't see many on the road but that could be because Subies are not that popular over here. Check youtubie and make a search you will also find lots of tests and some animations.

I am installing my audio system in my 1999 impreza plus (the wagon version) and i want to check the speakers in the front and rear doors. What are the size of the speakers that fit in the front and rear doors (in mm) and is the tweeter also replaceble? Then how do i get there, removing the whole door trim by removing the screw at the lock and one in the middle of the door plus prying some clips around the door? Supposily the connector in the dash showed lots of wires (for 4 speakers) should i assume the wires are indeed already present in the doors (front i think rear i dont know)

Since my 91 legacy failed MOT (rust in wheel arches near shock mounts, rest of car looks great) I bought an Green metalic Impreza plus with the 1.6 and manual gearbox. This is my first manual subaru. I know it has a 50/50 split between front and rear so how about running with different sized tires between the front and rear will it be a big deal (or less than with the automatic)? Are there any other things i should take more care of having an AWD compared to a FWD automatic. I guess there is no separate front differential but a part of the gearbox itself is this true? Any other hints or advice is of course welcome. Car is 1999 impreza plus with EJ161 5mt, no A/C, no ABS, no airbags (europe) with ~60k km (35k miles).

i hope linking does work to the car database site http://www.autotrack.nl/owa_dima/owa/att_occ_detail.detail?p_spr_id=196696771&p_type_lijst=RL&o_id=1581451 If you go to foto's you will get photos (dutch is not that hard )

Today my 91 legacy failed the MOT. I am allowed to drive it till the 28th of this month (last tank of gas). Reason to much rust in both reach wheel arches near shock mounts. There were holes in there. So now currently looking at an Impreza plus 1.6 boxer manual hi/lo from 1999 with only 60k kilometers. However it does not have airbags, ABS and A/C. It is quite cheap to dutch standards. Does anybody have any experience with the 1.6 and manuals (only had automatics before, but drive a lot of manuals though). Is lacking ABS and airbags a bad thing?

For everybody who wants to save his ECU + TCU fill it with liquid silicon which polymerises. Its called Sylgard 184 and is designed to keep water out of electronics and have it more shock-resistant. I used it on friends sailing raceboat for the electronics and never had problems with it even submerging in saltwater.

I wouldn't be worried it did 138 m/h over 100,000 kilometers including pit stops. Or 155 over 1 km. But that was with prepared cars (most likely different ECU http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_Legacy#Speed_records

Guess you need anti gravity oil then though, or overfill oil for just in case

It is the lower strip which is out of rubber and probably with a metal pin inside i suppose. Will check the other subaru website. Thanks.

Don't put your mail address in a forum, however gmail has good spamfilters. Use personal messages! The euro EJ20 is: 116 BHP and fits as a EJ22 which is actually also sold a lot in Europe. As far as i know the wiring is the same on these two engines if equipped with same sensors (not all have EGR system).

Hi all, I have some rust lets say above the fuel filler cap but then on the driver side of the car. It is under the window (stationwagon), i would like to remove the paint and fix it before i have a hole. I assume the rear windows of the SW are glued in the car. However the weather strip under it hopefully not. To gain access i would like to remove the strip (between side panel and the window, so under the window). How do i remove this strip and can i place it back or do i have to replace it? Car is end 1991 legacy station.

Your engine was still running for 5 minutes while upside down?

That's bad. At my work we do make small chips and flowcells for biological analysis. We make them from a material named PDMS. It is sold under the name Sylgard 184 and 182 (Down Corning). You mix two components in a 1 to 10 ratio and then pour it of the structures to make the chips. However this stuff was invented to seal of electronics for protection against water and shocks. Maybe a good idea for off-roading. Wires can get wet, microchips not!