rverdoold

wow, I really wish over here we have: - Relative cheap cars (subies are very very rare) - cheap fuel - mountains - off-road areas Then I could also well spend rainy sundays

Your speedo is driven by a cable comming from the transmission. You can check up my log about regreasing the cable inside. maybe the notch is worn.

I took of the old filter and fitted the tiny new one after checking with an other car parts store. System is a bit different here than US. There are not so many parts stores and Wal-mart where you can buy simple car parts. Service intervals are every 12,500 km (about 7500 miles) much more than over there. THink it will run fine, will see.

Going to replace oil this weekend and got new oil filter: MANN filter W67/1, its hard to get hold on subaru filters and MANN seems to be pretty good from some filter reviews in europe (largest surface). However this filter looks so small. Sizes are 2.6 inch wide, hight is about the same and bolt size is M20 1.5 all these numbers seem right to me. Guess they just get small these days.

I have to regrease it every year: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=71564 only a 15 minute job

Will running rough (a bit on 3cyl) cause it to stall when cold? Think it is not problem of gearbox but more the engine. How much are spark cables in the states cause will go to Orlando, Fl in April for conference.

I dont think there is a misfire. It is just fluctuation in the engine speed. I haven't seen boxers which had a super spot on idle. As Nipper said spray some water if idle drops and increases quick than the ecu is responding to some loss in energy send to the spark plugs. Maybe also clean and/or test the PCV valve with the thumb for clicking noise.

Well that's an issue. Since the freaking martens attacked them couple of times i forced myself to take them out every day when i get home. I can't park near my house neither on the same spot every day. My cables have been eaten and cost here 30 (euro conversion) EACH . So i measured them and all are within the Haynes manual range. Stupidly i dont put the right ones to the right cylinder every time, should do that. Also i got some crashed car cables with 2x cyl 1 and 2x cyl 3 and using those now. Idle when warm is perfect, Idle when cold is also very good starting at 1100 slowly going down to 800.

So indeed rebuild 50k miles ago. I dont know the reason. Subies were (and are) still very rare here in holland. Most likely indeed it was the metal bits in the oil as with most of them in that time.

Thanks for all the replies. Nope no errors are shown (by power light). It drives fine it just happened two times and never ever had noticed it before. The tranny was completely rebuild about 50k miles ago. The stalling with the reversing could also be blamed on the engine. I always have this drop in rpms when shifting from park to a gear when cold and when it is too much it stalls. Although that only happened when I didn't drove it for some time and it was very wet (rain). Car runs rough then it just takes few moments. Normal behavoure is fine, shifts smooth in every gear, also manual, locks-up nicely when it should. But was just curious what it could be. Had pushed it in neutral when it happened and then no problems. Is the tranny locked when in park and engine off? I idea what happens when gearbox gets unplugged while driving (like loose connector)? As far as i know without the TCU connected it should run 3rd gear only.

My 91 legacy fwd automatic behaves strange from time to time. Few days ago i started it and selected reverse with foot on brake then car jumped backward so slammed the pedal and engine stalled. Moved to park and tried again same story, just did not want to crush the back in to the tree 1 meter back. So started again and left it for few seconds gave some throttle and response was fine. Shifted to reverse and no problem. Today started quickly (or normal) moved lever from P to D and drove away without problem. However had to stop after 50 meters and think it just shifted to 2nd. Had to stop and pressed brake, car started to force (like pressing the brake in a manual without pressing the clutch). So pushed it deeper and suddenly released gear. Went from 400 rpm to 900 (at 35F outside temperature). Then drove 40 miles without problem. Gearbox locks-up normally after about 12 miles (haven't seen shorter distance in this winter so think it is normal). I have the idea the transmission was locked-up in both cases can this be true. It drives fine, fluid is spot on when warm and engine running, was replaced 15k miles ago. Only thing i changes is that now i drive more often (last two months 2000 miles a month, instead of 500 a month) Car has about 180k miles. Milage is about 29 mpg (not joking).

Maybe a vacuum hose leaking. Had something similar with other brand car turned out to be simple rubber stopper disappeared.

My car is doing exactly the same (91 legacy with 2.0l 4eat). It just has to do that everything is cold. The strong smell is because of the very rich mixture, this also is the point for the low fuel economy. Driving with rich mixture is very bad for your catalytic unit. I usually start the car and have to drive 40 miles. For everything under 7 miles i take the bicycle (holland, yep). Sometimes when it is moist and cold my car even stalls when i engage gear. It also takes 10 to 15 miles to heat up the transmission oil to engage the torque converter lock-up (more fuel efficient). The shifting from D to N stopping the vibration just means that there is no resistance for the engine to pull on. The idle speed when cold is just in some resonance of the engine. Just 5 miles in the cold is killing oil lubricated mechanical parts. Maybe change to thinner oil, more suitable for the cold, cold is everything under 40F. I also try to never exceed 2500 rpm when cold.

There is an other selftest for the cooling fans (if ODBI), at least in a Legacy I. However i suppose it is not much different in the old impreza. If i connect the CEL readout- connector (black one under steering column) and the green T-shaped connector next to it (its for long test run) the cooling fan will turn it self on and off at interfals of a few seconds. You can also do the self test and see for more errors in sensors. Only if OBDI though good luck. Its the so called D-check mode

Same for me they are running fine and will go to 3rd winter. Maybe on an other car though.

I go with Nipper, Had a blocked muffler once and gave very similar results/problems. How is the throttle response in neutral, quick or hard to get in the higher range. Problem is that the air can not get out as quick. Hope its the muffler and not the cat since cats are very expensive. (not the onces that say miauw).

Really don't forget to undo the rubber hose first. I forgot that the last time and had to peel out the clamp from there which is really nasty. I described it in the proper order as far as i can remember, and if you want to oil the paper to add the graphite powder just whipe the engine oil dipstick twice or so. A combo to also check the engine oil multitasking amazing issn't it.

The justy is actually a copy from Daihatsu the Sirion 2. The engine is a 998cc 3 cylinder made by daihatsu as well. (just note subaru and daihatsu are both toyota companies). Further on this engine is used in the toyota aygo (citroen C1 and peugeot 107). The engine is good for such a small engine, at least the toyota and copies are getting good milage and i have seen them second hand for sale with milages above 150k km so they do run fine. They will never work propern on propane (are sold in UK) because valves overheat. The roofrack i haven't seen any, also not for the daihatsu, just check at a showroom model if it has a grove or edge where a roofrack might fight in. good luck

I had the same problem some time a go and last week, easy to regrease the cable which is a lot cheaper and really worth trying. Its the cold that does the trick in making it noisy. Try my work procedure it might help you http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=71564

I have the same problem. And for sure my HG is blown, where i dont know and i also have no oil residuals in my coolant. So the HG is leaking probably very lightly. I fixed my leaking radiator by using a special polymer on the plastic part which was leaking and since i forced the system to run presureless. I put a copper rod under the radiator cap now the expansion fluctuates into the overflow tank. Currently i am driving over 10k miles like this without any problems in hot and cold weather. Currently driving 500 miles a week on interstate like roads and no problems. Looking for an other car in meanwhile because parts are hart to get and expansive, plus a mechanic is even harder to find since subaru is more or of rare car brand here. I wish i could replace my HG sometime. Good luck.

disconnecting the lower coolant pipe is much easier than re-sealing those two plugs. It's just one hose connector. To fill up the system connect the hose (of course) jack up the front of the car and remove the venting cap on the opposite side of the radiator. Now slowly poor new coolant into the radiator main filler hole. This works fine and is very simple. (and just for sure, make sure coolant has cooled down before working with it)

It is much easier to disconnect the lower coolant pipe from the engine with the car lifted up from the back. I heard that putting the plugs back might result in leakage.

I have a 91 legacy automatic and never had had any problems of transmission oil getting into my radiator/coolant. Keep in mind that the smell of transmission oil is completely different than that of motor oil. (just smell the dipstick, sorry for me being a chemist and using the nose as a tool). However i have blown head gasket and that is why my radiator got a small crack in the plastic side of it. This was caused by the increased pressure from the little bit of exhaust gasses coming in the cooling system. I never had the engine overheating, neither the needle ever went further up then the middle. To see if your HG is blown you can try a few things: - rev to 2500 rpm with cold engine (not frozen though) with the radiator cap removed if the coolant starts to come out by really flowing then it might be possible the HG is bad. - Remove radiator cap and put a piece of metal on the edge so that when you put the cap back the overpresure valve is open. Now you should be able to see airbubbles in your overflow tank from time to time (mostly all the time but i don't see them every time i look) These are generated by exhaust gasses. - measure compression of each cylinder will tell you I am not going to fix my nearly 20 year old car. Currently i am driving 5.000 miles with a depresurized cooling system and probably already 15.000 miles with a bad HG. I drove the cooling system like that in cold and warm weather and never had problems even up to elevations of 3.000 ft. The car is not using coolant (loosing, i fixed the radiator with sicaflex) and oil is normal.

Downshift in time?!?! there is no time to realize that. Once wheels lock up its already to late to do anything else. I know it too well, kissed a tree, but ok airbags did not set off so thanks to seatbelts. Best tips i can give: Studded tires if you still wan to drive Stay home with nice warm tea Go by foot

I don't like kids with too much time to hack websites. Especially websites which really have nothing to do with politics or other things. Most likely the guy lost a drag from a subie in his slow civic or lancer Thanks to the people who brougth it back to live again (a bit fancy though)