rverdoold

More curious now what caused the clunking. A bad CV will usually only because of wear in one direction (forward). Since this is both direction it could be something badly assembled or missing in the CV joint.

What car is it. COuld be curious to put a OBD reader on it and see what the ECU sees as temp. Then you can decide if it is Temp sender, wire, grounding or indicator.

Keep in mind that the trunk or rear gate is made of aluminium and not steel. That might dent a lot easier. I would go for roof or towbar carried bikes.

A little explanation: The water pump has 2 or more seals. Between those 2 seals there is a little space and room with a weeping hole out of the block. This prevents mix up of coolant with engine oil (other engine design) or spilling over the timing belt (here). (correct right?)

The oil pressure sender on top of the block (behind alternator) can go wrong. They faul and eventually fail, but usually the other way around, not showing a light at all. By shorting the connector to the block the light should go on. It could be that there is a short in the sender. Unplug the single wire cable from the sender, and see if the light goes out. Then short it on the block somewhere else and see if the light goes on again. This is a cheap part to start with to change.

If by RPMs 2nd gear is allowed then the TCU will put it in second gear. If you go fast enough and 2nd is not possible anymore by RPMs then TCU will put it in third. But as far as I remember the 4eat will do about 75 miles/h in 2nd max (somewhat depending on engine type). After it finished accelerating through 2nd will it go into 3rd or 4th? Or you probably already stopped kicking down as you will be speeding already.

Any brake related error codes will disable the cruise control. CEL (check engine light) is only on to tell you error codes are stored and maybe still present.

There is a Recall in europe on the fuel pump connector for the 2003 - 2009 legacy/outback series!

After hearing for years my subaru (2009 OBW euro) was not part of the airbag recall now they finally decided that it is a part of the recall. But reading the letter it shows that there are 2 more recalls due on my car. 1. Passenger airbag module 2. Fuel pump wire assembly (replace fuel pump wires as they can cause a short). 3. Brake line excessive rust, check and replace brake lines when needed. #1 is not a suprize but #2 is, anyone heard of that one in US?

Sounds like the starter pin is actuated by the electro-magnetic coil (the pin that is driven by the starter motor to the flywheel) but the starter motor itself is not getting power. Or power through to spin.

So basically the abs system is messed up by missing info because: The front speed sensor knows the axle rotation to the or in the front diff, so actually the front axles. Now, normally both front axles spin at equal speed, measured by the abs tone ring in the wheel hub (abs speed sensor). When you take a turn the left and right side axles will rotate at different speed but that is know by the steering angle sensor mounted to the power steering module. So: VDC comes in place here, when for example the diff spins with x-revolutions both front axles should do the same. If 1 wheel has no grip the diff uncouples and sends all the power there (least resistance), abs/vdc computer sees that and brakes (abs) the spinning wheel -> to transfer power to the other front wheel. (electronic diff 'lock') Parking brake could be on front wheels these days but I have no idea Strange thing here is both front and back Left abs sensor is messing up. Could be that the fall back of missing front speed sensor is the abs wheel speed sensor between front and rear. Maybe you also have a somewhat deflated tire.

Further I assume it is a cvt rather than a 4EAT (4 speed). But in case of the 4eat it is quite hard to reach as it is on the upper left side of the transmission case. You could disconnect the transmission harness and reconnect or even spray the connector with wd40.

It is the front speed sensor giving an error. There is a speed sensor mounted on the front housing of the gearbox assuming it is an automatic. It could be as simple as a disconnected cable to a bad sensor. Try to reset the ecu and see how fast it comes back.

I would bet on a vacuum leak somewhere in the inlet manifold system. Or timing belt is off a tooth but that should not result in surging.

Could be couple of things to start with: Coolant temperature sensor incorrect Manifold pressure sensor incorrect Throttle position sensor incorrect Vacuum leak (this would also result in normal rough idle) Those sensors can be tested on resistance, vacuum leak can be checked by closing the air-inlet before the filter with a or something that can close of the inlet. The engine will starve of air and stop. But if there is a leak it will make a hissing sound.

My 2.5i head seeps too and looks way worse than this. I monitored it for the past 3 years and came to the conclusion the engine makes per 10k km 1 L oil disappear (leak or burn). I see this as a non-issue. Maybe just monitor the usage of oil.

Could it also be if its an automatic that the ECU does think it is NOT in P or N. Quick try is to put key in On and cycle through the gears ending in N position. Not sure brake needs to be pressed for starting in N of P with handbrake on. Check if the brake lights go off when brake is applied and tried to start (second person or mirror), if so there is a short or battery is broken. For all other electrical, most help above is logical.

My PowerSteering (PS) pump bearing showed signs of going bad with a ticking steel on steel noise especially in cold weather. Now I got one from a donor car but of course to the same model same engine number the pump is slightly different (only mine is 9 months newer). (mine is last BP 2009 OBW series EU). The main housing of the pump looks exactly the same. But then: 1. The one piece where the piping connects with the elbow has a different angle, pointing more forward. I was thing to just undo the screw and use the elbow one I have on car now. 2. The other piping connector is more a mystery, mine has the banjo bolt directly on the housing, but here seems a nut is there. Can i just remove that nut? and then put my current banjo on the housing. Or, do I have to put the banjo on top of this nut (seems to fit) Then the bracket that holds the cover is bend (donor had to hood damage, ran into a trailer after it was rear-ended), but can easily transfer my own as well. Will this work?

The car: 2009 2.5 subaru outback with 4eat and vdc. with little over 100k miles. When the car is warm and gearbox too the downshifting during braking at a traffic light for example goes quite rough from 3rd to 2nd and 2nd to 1st. When accelerating the shift from 1st to second is smooth, from 2nd to 3rd is rough again. When arriving at a roundabout (through speed for 2nd or 3rd gear) it seems the gearbox is in doubt and at last moment dups it rough in 2nd. Shifting with the steering shifters is rough as well. When cold it drives fine. Now it is due to atf change in 3k miles. Now the questions: 1. Just replace the ATF 2. Flush the ATF 3. Flush ATF and remove bottom and replace filter 4. Flush ATF, replace filter and whatever else !?! It gave ones an error on atf temp sensor input low, never ever gave it again (10k miles ago), it was coincidently with an exhaust leak at center to front pipe connection.

I still miss my first gen legacy station in white.

ATF is red. ATF is used in the gearbox if it is an automatic obviously. And ATF is used in the power steering. So It could be a leaking power steering system (check the fluid in reservoir) It could be your automatic is leaking ATF (bad) check the dipstick It could be that your gearbox seal between the front diff and automatic is broken (very bad) and that it is leaking out of the front diff. Check front diff dipstick. To check the PS: pump and lines and steering rack for leaks. There rubber boots around the moving parts of the steering rack, they age. Automatic: There cooling lines from the gearbox to the radiator, check those for leaks. Front diff: check the drive axle places where enter the diff. Check all drain plugs

Usually I hardly visit the dealer and I was onced proven that I should avoid this one for sure in future. I had brought my 09 OBW (2003-2009 model) on LPG in for valve clearance adjustment, as LPG can wear the valve seats faster. I had only visited this dealer once before to replace the CV-boot and stabiliser ends and had an OK impression. Note that the number of official dealers in Netherlands is pretty low, and keep in mind that of the OBW from 2004 to 2009 only 2500 cars were sold in the Netherlands!! So it is rare and finding a good dealer or workshop with Subaru experience is quite touch. It took them 4 to 5 hours to check and adjust the valve clearance. I think this is WAY to much time. But ok, i can not judge as I have never done this myself on this car. I picked up the car and drove home with a quite constant smell of gasoline. Remember once running on LPG the gasoline injectors are shut off and but the fuel system remains pressurised. After 15 minute drive I arrived at home and opened the hood. Literally the whole engine compartment was drenched in gasoline. The cylinder 2 injector was blowing gasoline everywhere. I pulled the plug of the fuel pump and it stopped spraying. Road side assistance (dutch AAA) which has a good reputation had a quick look (as it is for 'free') and took the fuel rail of 2/4 off and showed a half missing seal rubber! This means for sure that they did not install it correctly and broke it and that for sure they did not test drive it. Amazing it did not burn down, knowing last week ik filled the gasoline tank full and LPG tank (110 L of fuel!). Questions: What is a reasonable time for valve clearance adjust and check working time? For me it is really valve covers off, fuel system off (injectors and rail) 1 timing belt cover to see cam position and measure from underneath as this gives best access, replace seals and reinstall. Once the fuel injectors are out, which seals do you normally replace? Was I lucky no BOOM happened? To put costs in perspective, One previous dealer (far away) costed 490 euro for ATF, Diff F, Diff R, LPG spark plugs and valve clearance adjust, this costed 466 euro only for valve check.

So I checked it. Currently I still run winter tires which still have 5 mm of thread (was 8 or 9 when new) which are 225/55/R16 (and have 807 rev/mile) When I drive 80 on GPS (straight good lock 24 sats) it is 88 on speedo, which is a good 10%!!! Original size is 215/55/R17 which is 790 revs/mile and speedo should be 6 to 7% off which is normal here. If I would mount 225/55/R17 than it is 777 revs/mile and speedo still shows about 3% to much. However this tire is a full Inch taller than my current winter tire! My only worry is, will it clear the strut base and the fender inside? I will try to measure some with a spacer being a half inch, the width is the same as the winter tire only it reaches half inch higher on top. Ground clearance increases half inch too i think.

Hi Guzzi, or Bongiorno, Yes I run on LPG with the 2.5, these cars are not fun on gasoline here, as tax goes to CO2 and weight (not engine size as Italy is I think). (I have a GSI-Flex lpg system without valve saver as I think it is not necessary, it runs about 11L 100km). I can run any tire I would want to in size as long as I do not damage the roads (no spikes).

I have a 2009 OBW (2003-2009 model), now I am in the hunt for new tires. Originally the car was delivered with Geolandar g900 215-55-R17 tires. Unfortunately this is not a very common size over here. However if I check cars101 the US models were supplied with 225-55-R17, which also here is a way more common size. I can not imagine it would not fit, even the rims are 17jj so those are the same too. I am not interested in a super correct speedo, now it is about +8% at 100 km/h Are there suspension differences that could explain the wider tire would fit? My winter tires are 225-55-R16 so one inch smaller