rverdoold

Its just that sometimes i am really in the middle of nowhere in north eastern europe. And an automatic not starting really ..... you know. Have to find out which direction the crank turns, Clockwise or counterclockwise?? Cranking in opposite direction will not work by my guess.

You just mean, a blank key for a first gen legacy?? Just had one made here today cause bended mine:confused: and didnt wana riske having it breaking of in the steering wheel. Costs were 6 euros including cutting to my model. This is around 9 dollars. If you really need one and get any send a personal message.

Since automatics can not be started by pushing or towing them is there a way to crank it by turning the front pulley. I dont have AC so the pulley is not completely used. So it would be starting like a chainsaw for example by turning the crank axle. Just out of curiousity since with the old lada (stop laughing ) you could start them by using your wheel nut wrench on the crank axle.

Ow YES the NurburgRing Nearly killed myself there in a 911 turbo. Instructor said i should brake later and only use full throttle not lifting:grin: BTW how many people on this board do actually know the nurburgring???? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/N%C3%BCrburgring (hey guys from oversea's if you are here than go there and take 'Der RingTaxi' STI and get yourself feeling green in just 5 minutes:grin:

I guess the only used automatics because manuals in general have a 50/50 split. Dont they? It would be nice to see these videos from the German ADAC with 50 cars or something. A real test. Ok it shows that subaru is fine but still bit tricky video

There was something that the propellor fits both but one was better in moving water. I know in pumps for ponds (water + dirt) the propellor (stamped ones) are better than the casted (more less closed propellor)

Same here, on snow surface they are fine and have good grip. On dry roads (where mostly use them) the noise is less than my summer tires which are 205/55 on 16 while these are 185/65 on 15. Never had aquaplaning with them on water filled streams on the road (those ones made by trucks). THey are very good, especially compared to the price. Still they are in no comparisson to the Pirelli Spikes i had on the rental car in Latvia 15mm spikes eating into the ice/snow (uhm and asphalt:lol: ) (thinks something that its a rental car anyway)

Hey Nipper, nice repair work. But what about the deer did it taste well asume its in the freezer whit X-mass in a few weeks:grin:

There are a few manufacturers of LPG systems: Koltec-necam which is used by factory LPG systems in subarus TeleflexGFI is a manufacturer which is widely used in VW (+group) and BMW, these are also sold in USA but i have no idea how and where. maybe www.teleflexgfi.nl (partly in english) can help. I also dont know if they work in subarus. Eurogas (www.eurogas.nl) Vialle (www.vialle.nl) As nipper stated there can be problems with emission checks. Althoug i can not imagine why because LPG has a cleaner burn than gasoline it also does not contain other stuff (like sulphur ect.)

Want to see pics of modern Propane installation in 05 OBW http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=82279

This conversion including labour done by a specialized company was around 2000 euro's (dont convert to dollars it does not give realistic numbers:confused: ). reason why conversion done: Road tax for the weight of the car per 3 months gasoline (1.5 euro/l, 8.8l/100km) = 150 euros LPG (0.55 euro/l, 11l/100km) = 190 euros Diesel (1.2 euro/l, 5.6l/100km) = 300 euros So after driving more than 7500 km a year its cheaper to drive on LPG Nowadays conversions are sold for 995 euros on new cars, especially because of lower emmission while fuel efficienty is not that low

To me it looked like an ideal oil for both winter and summer (mild Dutch winters though not getting much moren than -15C)

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=82279

Might be, what is the normal tire size you have now 205/55 R16??? Because you might go to a smaller tire like the 195/60 R16 or the 185/65 R16 if they fit on the rim. Usually >205 tires are cheaper as well. check: http://www.1010tires.com/TireSizeCalculator.asp

Maybe: vacume leak crank angle sensor + cam sensor The car is still under waranty so its the dealers time to take action. I says on the introduction of the user manual 'thank you for buying the most reliable car' So let them make that true.

I have seen some questions around about subaru's on Propane or LPG gas, as well as Bi-fuel or EcoMatic. Besides the '91 legacy i own my dad drives a 05 outback wagon with 2.5i egine (+4EAT) which is a Bi-fuel. The Bi-Fuel or Ecomatic changes are: Removed spare tire (special tire fix spray is included, tire as well but there is no space in the car cause LPG tank is fitted there. In germany spare tire is obligator so extra mount is made for smaller tire. On the Forester the tire can be mounted underneath the car. Tank contains roll-over valve, emergency overpressure purge valve (above 35 bar). This empties the tank when the car is on fire to prevent that the tank explodes. Actually this is much safer than a normal gasoline tank on fire as shown by german road safety organisation (although a bi-fuel has both). Second ECU to controll the propane injection, is linked with 1st ECU to get gasoline injection points and timings as rest of car information. This ECU monitors: Tank presure (9 to 14 bar), high pressure injectors, temp, timing ect. Tank monitor and LPG/gasoline switch (to switch between power sources) A connector on the side of the car to fill the tank. Some images: Tank in the back of the car with Pressure Regulator Valve (PRV) and safety valves as well as a manual turn off knob/valve. On the left side of the car is the connector for the hose. Never dirty hands with spilling its just propane. Then on the dash on the left side, just under the vent on the far left is the switch with tank fill indicator. In the egine bay on the passenger side (LHD) the propane regulator is, the ECU is mounted next to the transmission. The propane regulator from Bosch (LPI pressure injection system) On the intake manifold the injectors are build into this The system works fine, when tank is full (14 bar) there is even more response than on 98 octane (propane is 104 to 110 octane). Sometimes on Kick-down the system can not supply enough propane (lower tank pressure) and drive is switched to gasoline which is not always very shock free. In Europe propane is widely available for 1/2 to 1/3 of the gasoline price. The fuel efficency is 11 litres per 100 km while the computer still shows 8.6 litres per 100 km so there is no communication between those values on the computer. Because the propane is injected under low temperature (-10 to -20 C) it cools the pistons and valves reducing egine wear. Car ran now 105000 km and just had its big maintenance service. Intervals are every 15k to 20k km. Never had any problem with the car (except bad front brake discs but think all outbacks had that). Driving was not the most friendly this means: high revs (well warmed up engine though), high speeds (above 150 km/h) long periods of time (>4h) on the german autobahns to Italy, even driving periods (30 mins) at full throttle/full speed of 200km/h on the GPS. This car is just perfect and very strong. EDIT: reworked images, might change them later

Thats whats makes this message board so nice. There are people around the world willing to help others. (the dutch subaru board only has people who are not good in communication) This is just a great board. The problem with winter or snow tires is that they perform really bad on wet surfaces. This seems very strange to me because the rubber compound is much softer than summer tires. I have driven several rental cars with the cheapest winter tires which were a complete pain to drive when it was raining (ok maybe not that dangerous but still dont like on every pulling away the wheels skid)

Just read an article about oil experiments in a subaru GTT (which is the dutch legacy station with a turbo. Article is in Dutch though http://www.extreme-machines.nl/downloads/Olierapport.doc Iron Copp Lead Alum Sil Chr Tin Sod Pot Gemiddelde 0W-40 0,0026 0,0019 0,0013 0,0012 0,0027 0,0003 0,0003 0,0009 0,0003 Gemiddelde 10W-40 0,0015 0,0024 0,0007 0,0006 0,0011 0,0002 0,0002 0,0009 0,0002 gemiddelde 5W-50 0,0013 0,0015 0,0006 0,0004 0,0009 0,0001 0,0002 0,0004 0,0015 Gemiddelde totaal 0,0025 0,0026 0,0015 0,0014 0,0024 0,0002 0,0004 0,0015 0,0004 (gemiddelde = average) This table shows the contents of metals in the oil after driving equal distance of 10k km (not testing 1 batch) This shows that on average the 5w50 has the least wear if metals in oil do indicate engine wear. Does anybody here tried this viscosity, cause seems to be a very nice all year around oil.

If you need translation from German, Dutch, Dannish i can help. Have the S3 for the 2nd season now and they were very good for the price they costed.

Dunno who is owning the brand but slovenia is nearby here (well relative), anyway. I got the Sava Eskimo3 (who makes these names) and they got tested by the German ADAC for road safety as the better cheap winter tyres. Since winter tires are obligatory in germany i have to have them while even going there for shopping. http://www.adac.de/Tests/Reifentests/Winterreifen/195_65_R15T_2006/tab.asp?ComponentID=163558&SourcePageID=163625 Its in german though but: Trocken = dry surface road Nass = wet surface road Schnee = snow on road Eis = iced surface road Gerausch = tire noise Rollwiderstand = roll resistance Verschleiss = wear resistance Sehr empfehelenswert = Highly recommended empfehelenswert = recommended bedingt empfehelenswert = not really recommended nicht empfehelenswert = dont even think of getting them ok thats for the translation 0.1 is best 5.0 is worst Some others: http://www.adac.de/Tests/Reifentests/Winterreifen/205_55_R16H/tab.asp?ComponentID=194874&SourcePageID=195661 http://www.adac.de/Tests/Reifentests/Winterreifen/195_65_R15_T_10_2005/tab.asp?ComponentID=127019&SourcePageID=127155

never thought they were that expensive. I had 4 of them from a 92 turbo to try in the non-turbo there was some power increase but not in line with the milage which went down the hill very fast. Whats the milage on the car? working times = (milage*t)*Delta RPM guess t is 1 minute per mile on average Delta RPM is lets say 2500 RPM so milage * 2500 = injected times and devide the price of the injector by this number and see how much it costs per injection not included the fuel though. Sorry for the wednesday evening math, wished could help you further sorry to say sold those ones for 50 euro each.

Its a from factory (or import station) build in LPG system. So running LPG and benzine. Italy = Bi-Fuel system Germany = ecomatic (http://www.subaru-ecomatic.de/) Holland = Bi-fuel system Its just that propane is popular here and clean. EDIT: Aagrrrr forgot that in other thread i promised to post some picks of of our Bi-Fuel 2.5 05 OBW. Will try my best

An other question though. What about the transmission oil. I knew with manual it was neccesary to put it in the right place because the oil became to thick. Dexron2 seems quit liquid though.

Ok back from few days not at home. Yep live here in holland in a very wet and moist environment, about 100 miles from the coastline though safely 25 meters above (current) sea level:lol: . Anyway its so moist that if i dont use the car for a week it will not start trouble free, just moist no CEL though just runs very rough but after 2 to 4 minutes it will be fine. No need to impress girlfriends parents, (renting a car is just way over budget 1000 euros for 2 weeks) was there in summer with same car. The winters there are very dry and cold. Actually you can dry cloths outside there, the water will evaporate because the humidity is even lower. I got some stuff: 4 snow tires (Well 1 season used last year, had them already, its obligatory to use in Germany) Battery jumpstarter cables Coolant was to -20F (still doubting about that, can take some out and add some pure stuff, it will mix itself) 5-30w oil + new filter (changed 8k km ago) washer fluid is taken care of with IPA (iso propyl alcohol) have a air compressor in the car so can inflate tires up to 20 bar:eek: (not that i wanted to) Locks are cleaned and fine Since i use this car daily without trouble i dont expect it to give problems, we had some freezing nights already. The only problem i had is the lack of heated seats

I have driven in cold weather but never with my own car (rented). Now in the mornings its getting colder here (well below 30F), the first 10km the car feels cold and tells it doesnt want to do anything sporty (try to never exceed more than 2500 rmp) It all needs to warm up. Washing fluid is taken care of as a biochemist i have plenty of non-freezing safe chemicals like ethanol 100%. What is it with the drygas?? maybe i know it under a different name but for now it doesnt ring a bell to me.