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Everything posted by rverdoold
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Just did it using hose and large syring. Was able to remove about 450 to 480 ml (from 'hot max' while hot). Refilled it and drove seems fine no big differences though. Only oil taken out was ver dark red and not clear. Replaced with D2 ATF oil. Anybody any idea how much oil the system holds so i can calculate the change ratio.
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As mentioned above, somehow i just cant read the ATF dipstick properly. How i dot it: Have nice warmed engine, stop put handbrake on and once more shift through all gears while engine keeps running nice and smooth. Pop the hood and pull the ATF dipstick, take my shirt/whipe/paper (or what else is useable) and clean it. Stick it back, push it through and pull it back. Now the reading usually the whole lower end (from the bottom to top 'HOT' hole + 3 to 4 mm above that) than there is a smear more or less 2 cm just on the side. So i would say it is overfilled those 3 to 4 mm. But it ran fine for at least 15k km (2.0 4EAT FWD '91 legacy) with no problems at all. Am i doing something wrong. I found out that with a large syringe and hose i can remove oil through the dipstick hole
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I thought that brake discs bend because of unequal cooling. This might happen when you drive and brake lets say from 60 to 0 and keep your foot on the pedal. On the place where the callipers are the cooling is less than on the rest of the disc. Usually after a long brake from high speed to 0 (traffic light) i put the gear into neutral and leave the brake. Although my dads '05 OBW had the same after 30k km all discs were gone and bended. The dealer replaced them with no cost.
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I got >50km, have to find out first time it went on last i drove 470km ok now some math (sorry guys metric ). tank capacity : 60 l (15.85 USG) tanked gas after ligth on : 46 l (12.15 USG) distance : 470 km (292 Mi) milage : 10.2 km/l (24.03 Mi/G) is this bad??!!?? (2.0l 2wd 4eat '91 legacy wagon) So with the 14 litres left is should be able to do at leas 140 more km but never went further than 480 km on a tank. But now comes the strange things. The distance given by the odometer differs from tire size ('91 legacy still with cable) and seems quite incorrect. Will try this with GPS once and see the difference and get the real Mi/G (since i trust the pump meter where i get the gasoline). Then there is something else weird. When the light comes on at the first moment and i take some turns (to the left) it goes off. Also when the tank is getting empty and i take left turns it becomes slightly fuller!? If i go to the right it becomes emptier again, i can even get it below the E line on the dail without having the ligth on (ensuring us the light and meter are really two separate sensors). Think will get a 5 l tank in the car and will bravely see if i can make at least 550 km. btw does anything bad happen to the automatic gearbox if the engine stalls or does it jumps into neutral???
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As the title describes, how can i replace the power steering oil? I have read that there is no need to replace it, just fill it up until the indication marks. But the oil is amber orange to yellow while it should be red (like the transmission oil) and it smells bad and a bit burned as well. It is there all its 15.5 years and only added a little bit. Last time i was in the mountains and while backing up a hilly road, including some maximum steering there was this smell. Since the 4EAT uses the same oil i dont know which one it was giving the smell around the car. The gearbox oil is nice and red after it was replaced 10k miles ago. Car is '91 legacy 2l 4eat.
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I was thinking (yes bad, it hurts a lot:lol: ) My left front CV joint is wearing out. The clicking sound (only in fully turned left turns) is caused by a groove worn into the cv-joint the balls in the cv try to get back into the groove. This groove is only on one side since most of us drive in the forward direction. So the Left axle is rotating clockwise but if i will change it with the right one it is running counter-clockwise, making this groove in the other direction. Of course its important to re-grease them. Any ideas if this might work.
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Dont know about the US subaru's but if i press the bright button next to the clock i can not adjust any dash light they are all at max. But if i turn it off i can adjust the brightness. (in a 91 legacy). In a 2005 OBW its the same by keeping the brightness button pushed on the satnav display. I hope it is not as simple as this after all you have tried with measuring.
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I dont have the parts yet, they are in a crashed car at a dealer (no subaru goes to a junckjard here). The engine is the same (layout ej20) and there is a cable going from the firewall (out of a black canister) to the throttle. This part will fit easy since its the same as with the '91. But will the control module fit in the electric system?
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So yesterday i replaced my eaten spark plug cables. It is hard to get them here but at a garage nearby they had a crashed 95 legacy (side crashed). (In holland products are not on the shelf only in central warehouse, so prefered a used part). So took the cables 4 for $30 did not seem to bad. But the car also had cruise control, which i dont have. The engine was the same but will this system work in my 91 legacy. It will fit in the same locations on the firewall but, will the computer fit in my car and work with the ECU?
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Had a nice surprise last night when i want to drive away. The ej20 did not want to start (and its trouble free for 15 years) and finally after 20 attempts i ran but far away from smooth. It was pitchblack and did not had a light so only checked oil level by touch . When i made it to the nearest lantarn i could see the damage to the engine. The two sparkplug cables on the passenger side were in bitten through. (No wonder 2 cylinders is not possible to run on). Also the light showed more, droppings everywhere on the engine. Some years ago i killed a weasel who was hidding in the engine and got stuck between the v-belt and alternator pulley when i started (yes it made a big mess). Is there anything i can do agains this? I know these ultrasonic things but doubt if they work.
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Sorry to say, but i have 92 legacy 2wd with rear drum brakes as main rear brakes. Models that were sold here (legacy only, doesnt matter sedan or wagon): 2wd any transmission (only 1.6, 1.8 and 2.0) 2disc + 2drums, no ABS 4wd any transmission (1.8, 2.0 and 2.2) 4disc + ABS 4wd turbo (2.0) 4disc + ABS And i really would have liked to have ABS and 4 discs since it looks nicer with my new alloy wheels