rverdoold

I agree the diesel came to late. The only way they can save their engineering is to combine a diesel with a hybrid. But then diesels dont like the start/stop system (like in the prius). Much better and much much cleaner would be to combine LPG (propane) with a hybrid engine. We looked for a prius but the engine could not be transformed to LPG so went on to a 05 OBW with the 2.5 on LPG, having the Euro4+ LPI (liquid propane injection by Koltec/necam). As well recent studies show that a large car using euro4+ LPG is much more environmental friendly than the previous prius, although the economical cost is slightly higher. The other thing you never hear of is the emission made during the fabrication of the gasoline, diesel and LPG. The CO2 production during making of the fuels is for gasoline (benzin) 407 gr/kg, diesel 240 gr/kg and lpg 239 gr/kg, a look at the NOx shows again that diesel and lpg are on the same line half of that of gasoline, but the HC is 19x lower of LPG than gasoline. Its these numbers which you never see if you buy a prius. And in holland LPG is made specially in most other coutries it is burned as a waste product for the production of gasonline:confused: . This study was done by CE (http://www.ce.nl/eng/index.html) and was not only for the posibilities of cars but also trucks. If subaru is clever they will only sell the diesel if it is directly suitable for pure plant oil (PPO). Which is the environmental diesel for the future. (but the word 'if' make me doubt they would ever think of this)

Found nice animation of the Diesel Shown is: Boxer principle Common rail injection quad cam layout VTG turbo compressor (viarable turbo) Intercooler (AWD of course)

I always though it had to do with the cooling. There is no forced (by pump) cooling when the engine is not running. Towing will make the parts turn and heat up. I have towed many automatics in N without any probles. But always kept in mind that the speed was not above 25km/h.

Inseminator i guess (some kind to show-off your occupation) Strange they still use it i think 99% of gasoline cars after 92 are using a fuel injection system.

I think there might be an issue with the airbags, which will not affect the driving. The Outback usus a torso + a curtian head airbag (2 separate systems) Here in europe the WRX is sold with large side airbags for chest and head only mounted in the chair. Moving the chairs to the outback will only result in more airbag during a side impact, most likely it will not affect anything. Crashing always hurts. Ok i just see you have the previous model outback (03 was here the replacement year to the current model)

Reading the thread of that video is really boring, most of them claim it is a fake and the volvo has been modified (awd fuse or handbrake) I think its all nonsense. If you go a bit deeper into the system that the volvo uses, the Haldex system (a semi-awd system) it is know also as automatic awd so usually its a fwd but in terrain it should become awd. While the subaru uses their own developed system. Then they say that the volvo has much more power, might be but its much heavier and the engine is mounted much higher in the chassis. I have seen lots of awd?! (haldex) on a muddy road nearby. Conclusion i made. The weight is the most important factor. The new Fiat Panda awd has no trouble at all driving on this road while it light and has a simple 1.1 litre egine. The Audi A3 uses the same haldex system (A4 and on uses Thorsen system). The same, still not that heavy car no problems. Then the volvo much heavier than the A3 and problems with front wheels spinning but manages to pass. The subaru has no problems whatsoever. No front wheelspin continiously. All cars were automatics. In general lots of people think that every awd is the same, its just the lack of information they have.

My rear left door has gone automatical, I checked it and the actuator is gone. Question is are the actuators in the legacy's for all the doors the same or are there different models per door? Found cheap one but not sure if it will fit.

Whas thinking, the front left one is that the one nearest to the oil filler hose? (it really depends on how you see left and right) But i had it once after my brother added oil that there was oil in the hole of the sparkplug, without any troubles. He just poured some over the filler hose. (the reason why he filled it was even worse, because the CEL came on he directly thought it was the oil , so now i forbid him to fill anything except petrol ) I would check that first before fixing anything, was just an idea.

Why would you convert a diesel to gas. We have a 2.5 outback (2005) on gas (or LPG) which can also handle Natural Gas. Disadvantage of natural gas is the milage its still very low and on the LPG its nearly identical to the gasoline milage. The system we run is socalled LPI (liquid propane injection) which let the car run more like normal liquid fuel injection. Only problem we have is that the computer does some mistakes, while stamping the gas it switches back to gasoline (2nd tank for LPG instead of spare). Other issue is that the LPI installation fills up the engine bay quite good (meaning i would be happy not to service the differential and gearbox oil:)) For the rest it drives superb.

Thanks, i have found nice set of wheels, now i know they fit. I think the holes for the wheelnuts are the same for all subaru's

This seems very good. Really looking forward to the detailed specifications. Because this is the only way for Subaru to become popular for business drivers in Europe. But again why only 1 engine, why only in the legacy. They should just make also 1.5 or something smaller for the Impreza. I am affraid it will just take to long. And i am not that happy about the marketing strategies subaru uses in Europe, especially in not in holland with the most crapy commercials ever seen on TV.

Will the tires from a 96 Impreza 205/55 R15 will fit on a Legacy (185/65 R14), not that concerned on the rolling length (1.2%) but on the wide of the wheel, will it hit inside during steering. I have 2wd so no issue on front/back difference. Hope you are using same dimensions for tires in USA

Dont like the idea behind the video, no scientific research. But it shows how strong the frist legacy is (despite i dont really think the chassis is that stiff)

Here is how it looks like actually: (or see attachments) http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=14513&size=big&cat=&ppuser=14134 (think the connector is from the 3-wire front O2 sensor)

Make sure that you cover the Powersteering reservoir on top of the engine. This is a venting cap, sure you dont want water in the P/S oil. I am not sure but brake oil canister might also have a venting cap, and that stuff is extremely hygroscopic. To get rid of the grease, I use engine cleaner and a brush (dishwashing brush) to rub it in a bit on the real oil spots. Then i spray it off using a water spray, no pressure washing. Just few PSI from the jetpistol. And usually i keep the egine running.

Oops completely forgot, Yes it did. Costs: graphite powder €2 (guess will be $2 over there) Time: can be done in 15 minutes (+45 for drinking afterwards) Engineering: You are only worth it if you can undo a single 17 mm blot and put it back:clap:

After resetting it does not show any code anymore so seems fine. What i have done in total is: Locate speedo cable mount on differential house (automatic) and remove the black rubber cover by pushing it upwards. Undo the bolt with 17mm key, then drive it out by hand, its very loose. Lift up the bolt and pull out the small pin with square head. Then undo the clip on the outer tube and take of the whole bolt by gently pulling it out. Now the hose is free and can be pullud out gently as well. Clean all parts with cloth (this graphite grease stains very badly). For regreasing the cable you can either take a graphite spray or graphite powder (i could only get powder). For spray i guess spray it on. For powder: Put some powder in the palm of your hand (better to wear latex gloves or something) put the cable on it and close your hand, now rotating and slow pulling the cable will spread the graphite powder nicely. Put at the tip of the cable some thick acid-free fat, like vaseline. Put the cable back in the outer tube and put some more graphite on it whilst putting it in. For the pin its important that the round part is clean, put some graphit on it and a drop of oil (just a very very little drop). Put some graphit in its housing and push it in. Mount the thing to the outer hose and apply the clip. (remember how the clip came of, i forgot it, the longer retangular parts go into the groof on the top end of the bolt) Place the bolt back onto differtial and turn it back in using hands only. At the moment it becomes harder to turn, put the car in Neutral and push it a bit back and forward (to get the square part of the pin back in to the right position). Now use the key to thight it, thight is thight, dont overturn it. If you drove with the car (automatic) without cable you get error code. You can erase the memory of the TCU the same way as for the ECU/ECM. Everybody thanks for their help.

Ok i have done it, took the cable out and regreased it with carbon powder very easy. Got it back in and had a try. The power light directly started to flash. (i drove with out speedo to see if it was the ticking problem). Pulled the codes - vehicle speed sens1 - vehicle speed sens2 Is this normal to get by driving without speedo cable? Car drives normally, normal shifting no abrupt shocks during shift. Resetted the ECU and TCU by battery method see what happens

Correct me if i am wrong. As i read from the write-up i need key 17mm to remove the cable from the automatic gearbox (4E-AT). This means just unscrewing the black bolt, or are there any other things to undo at the gearbox side. Ok then the other side. According to the write-up i can remove the cable by actually just pulling at it close to the firewall? It will just pop out of the speedo? Then putting it back, will this be as easy as on the older subaru's (removing the cap and look behind the speedo cluster). It will just click back in? It seems really simple then, feel bit bad cause it seems to simple. I know subaru's are quite straight forward engineering. The loud ticking only happens when the engine compartment is cold, after 15 min of driving its over an can only hear very soft ticking if i turn all other features off in the car and drive really slow.

Super cold in Holland only when http://freeenergynews.com/Directory/images/hell_freeze.jpg (Norway btw) Will try and take it apart in the weekend, anybody ideas how i can do that. First detach the cable from transmission (auto), and than in the dash. If i remove the cluster can i just take the cable out.

I dont even have A/C (means more power to the wheels, although only front) So also no cruise, really a pity cause it would increase milage. Ok will try that, so it means have to take the instrument panel out of the car . (have the US service manual but European dash is little bit different).

Sounds nice, any idea how and where to do this Nipper? (sounds logic that cable is lubricated turning at high speeds)

Always when i drive slowly i can hear a soft ticking noise from the dash. I suspect its the speedo cable cause it goes with the vehicle speed, driver faster, ticking goes faster. I have this for years, but now it started to become much louder, although only for some time and when the engine is cold. The speedo itself behaves normal (as all other indicators) no dancing of the needle. Anyone an idea whit it could be with the cable, at gearbox side or at dash side? Prever not to take appart the dash of the 91 legacy (2.0, 2wd 4E-at).

I agree, he should stop, or remove the car from drive, put it in park car is broken anyway or at least nutral. But he probably thought I have SUV with 4wd and can drive on ice without spikes. yeah right.