rverdoold

I dunno, but whe it is already hard to walk on the street because of ice what make people think they can still drive a car on the same ice. Yes with awd and real spikes (1/2 inch) it might be possible. But i wouldnt dare it. AWD and FWD should have the advantage over RWD's in this, but still ice is very tricky

What happened with the engine, did it stall?? Happened to me once driving in an old pickup with this shifter on the steering wheel (not used to it in europe) and the indicator in the dash was not working so wanted to get back from 2rd to D and missed a click or 2 and ended up in R speed was about 10 m/h. The rear wheels locked-up and then the engine tried to run the other way around (didnt work). Put it into P and started and ran without problems.

Nice but some of them wont work with the european version (everything with the horn).

Had the same last week, replaced the thing and now it works again. But still the speedo jumps, but guess it has more to do with my right foot Only now there is a ticking in my dash in the area of the speedo and it goes with the speed of the car. Still works to bothered taking the dash appart.

I think it is pretty heavy, at least 800 kg, then he is probably a bit afraid of the power , the STI should be much much faster.

A true freak machine Cool for just fun

Probably it will come back, you probably gave Murphy (from Murphy's law) a lift when it happened. I had some kind of noise coming from the rear wheels (2wd) and it was the suspension. The shocks were complete worn out. So i put new ones and no more noise (well not from the back)

Maybe anybody an idea for buying things online in Europe. The shipping cost kills the low price (and exchange rate).

According to my manual it should come on, but since i have the 1992 model and car, while it is registerd in 1991. (strait from the european importer in holland . So my manual is not the one i should have but for the previous model. I flushed the ATF today and want to fix that light as well. Is there any other method to find out if it is working?

When i turn the contact in the ON position of my 91 legacy 2.0, the basics lights come on except the AT oil Temp light (its an automatic). I think this one should come on as well, am i right? And if it is broken what is the easiest way to repair it? (planning on NOT take the whole dash appart to fix one 50 cents light bulb)

I am going to flush my tranny and front diff tomorrow. Are there any things where i should take care of? Tranny is about 4.5 litres (quarters) for the flush i thought or is it more, just because a 5l bottle of Dexron 2 is expensive over here. And for the front diff any specialities?? I thought additives are not good because they are made to solve probles which should not occur during normal usage and flushings.

Jack up the car and turn the wheel, this should be a smooth motion (first rotation might be little noise of the brake system). A broken wheel bearing makes a grinding noise, as well there might be some movement in the wheel except from turning. Check by pulling on the wheel. I had a noise comming from the right rear wheel, thought it was the bearing but the shocks were completely gone.

An overfill will reduce the working of the oilsprays underneath the pistons, during each down movement of the piston a jet of oil is sprayed into the bottom of the piston. If there is to much oil in the engine there is oil on top of the jet and the spray is reduced. This jet cools the piston and connection rod. Foaming of oil happens when it is under extreme pressure this occurs when the piston moves down and has to move a lot of oil. So overfilling is bad, they did not put a mark on the dipstick without any purpose. To remove the excess oil use a small hose that fits in the dipstick pipe but it has to be quite hot in order to make it possible to pump it out using a small handpump. Or the dirty job underneath.

Well i have a 2wd so i dont know the sound of a rear differential. It proably sounds like driving in reverse with manual (non-syngromesh). Maybe you can flush the differential oil (or maybe there is no oil or not enough in it).

Maybe you can describe the noise better. Wining: high pitch noise, the dentist drill but them lower frequency (think of rear differential) Grinding: (broken bearings from: water pump, altenator) Remove the front v-belt and drive again remember no power stearing or electrics so turn of the lights if it is still there try the A/C belt (i guess you have). It is possible the noise is there all time but maybe you can't hear it because of other noises. I had my 4EAT broken, and it smells bad and there is a low pitch (like bass) noise coming from front under the dash. THe ATF oil looks dark and not clear anymore, then flush the ATF and check again.

Well up to the 10.000 for nipper, he deserved it. But now i think he spends more time on the board than on his car or does he have pc in his car with this dirt cover on the keyboard?

I drove one this weekend, one that had driven 10k miles. And i do have to come back from my previous statement. I drove one with only 20 miles and that one was very slow and no power. But when run in it is a proper engine which would be extremely suitable for driving on LPG to make it cheap. But it would be nice if there is a turbo available because lots of european competitors have small turbo'ed egine (volkswagen, audi, bmw). But a diesel hopefully would sell much better europe.

I am interested in why would you mix antifreeze with water. As here it gets well below -10 Celcius (14F) and in germany in winters even below -20 (-4F) during the nights. I just flushed my cooland an replaced with 100% ready to use antifreeze (-26 celsius) costs 2 euros per liter. My 2.0 never orheated, never had the waterpump replaced (140k miles). And the meter always stays just a little pointing down from the middle. I have seen people saying that if mixed it should be done with de-ionized water, true but almost as expensive per liter as antifreeze (well i work in a lab so i can tap real pure H2O by the gallons ).

I thought that the fuel vapor seperator box was filled with active charcoal, to absorb the fuel vapors (and reduce the gas smell in a cold start). I might be wrong as well.

That was indeed with the first Gen legacy's, i think with the second gen it is located between the rear bumper and on of the wheels (think right side passenger side) and is a box shape. On the old legacy's it is a round canister in front of the car.

I want to replace the passenger and driver seats, from my '91 legacy with something newer. I get pain in my back driving for more than an hour (i am 6ft 2"). Which newer models are interchangable with my '91. I was thinking of some impreza seats because legacy's are very scarce over here. With interchangeble i mean unbolt change and bolt up again, no welding. Well sliding of the track and sliding it on is fine as well. An other option is repacking the foam or replacing it, did anyone did this, the fabric is still ok, no damage.

I think its an excelent car for europe (and usa). In most european countries (germany, france, italy ect.) except holland the road tax goes by engine size so smaller engine lower tax. Now the EURO4 norm has been started since october there are several catagories like <1l, 1.5 2.0 and >2.6l. So its clever to have a small enigine in the range. Then there is a huge prize difference with europe and usa. Ill show you: The cheapest impreza 1.5 sedan costs 21.130 Euro (= 26.625 USD) this is the cheapes real subaru in holland (they sell the justy but thats just a suzuki ignis awd) Then the next impreza is the 2.0 at 26.565 euro (33.474 usd). And the cheapest impreza is a real empty car there is not even a radio or side airbags. There is also a 2.0 forrester and no turbo'ed legacy's or outbacks (Thats a real F pitty i think because they should beat some germans on the autobahn) And just for the info OBW 2.5 is 36.130 euro (45.527 USD) and Tribeca is 57.105 euro (71.957 USD) and that is without the satnav for both. The tribeca starts at 30.000 without tax in the US thats more than 50% cheaper. As well lots people overhere drive on propane or LPG to reduce the cost. The ej's are pritty simple for LPI (liquid petroleumgas injection) systems and run perfect with better performance. Biggest problem is that europe is waiting for a subaru diesel or turbo diesel this will improve sale prizes in alle european countries. Personaly i would never by the 1.5 ok the MPG is better but there is just no power at 3k rpm like in the 2.0 there is really nothing. I drove the 1.6 and it seems to work only above 5k rpm.

This means that something in the drive shaft or complete front drivetrain is different in size comparted to the other side of the car. Then can this be the cv joint or is it the drive shaft. And on which side the side where its pulling too or the oppossit.

The front wheel bearings are ok (rear as well). If i am driving and leave the throttle and steering wheel (rolling) nothing happens and the car goes strait, so it only happens when driving away giving a more than normal amount of gas. I would think if it was the CV on the left it takes more effort to turn it (not noticable when turning hand) than on the other side. So the power is distributed more to the right than to the left.

I did that last week, i checked all brakes because it was going for its annual MOT, i couldn't notice any difference with gearbox (warm) in nutral. If it is the brake caliper it should be on the right side i guess!?