rverdoold

I've got a '91 legacy automatic with 2WD (222k km). The gearbox has been rebuild 30k miles ago and has been flushed last week. When i start driving away from stop just by giving gas slowly (not using the steering wheel) the car starts driving making a turn to the right. The steering wheel turns 1/8 of a turn. If i hit the gas the the pulling to the right is less. Otherwise the car pulls strait if am driving through a corner and hit the gas, but this is normal i think. When cruising the car goes strait without steering also the braking goes strait. On the right front side the CV join is replaced 15k miles ago and never on the left side. Just very sometimes when fully steered to the right the left CV joint makes a soft clicking noise but not broken. All the boots are in perfect condition as well as the tires (same tyre same wear). Could this be the CV joint on the left or maybe the oil in the differential needs to be replaced?

Hi all, well sure America has a lot to learn form Europe about driving on Propane (or LPG). In holland we drive on Propane or LPG for years without any problems. My dad's 05 OWB 2.5 has been built in with a LPG installation. The spare tire is replaced by a ring tank (65L) and an aditional meter is placed near handbrake or elswhere on the dash. The installation is made by Koltec (http://www.teleflexgfi.nl/) using a Sequential injection system. In italy subaru sells cars with an in-factory build in LPG system or CNG.

Hi How can see if my axles are ready to be replaced. My front left CV joint (outer) needs to be replace so i will remove the axle. Are there any points to have a good look at befor i put it back. Except the boots and grease in the inner joint.

In holland Subaru always put the spark plug tool in the toolkit. (mainly crappy tools therefore a leatherman. But i never had to use any of them except for a flat tire)

Hi, I got Hella Comet 550 on my legacy. I wired them in a circle with a switch in centre console (above 4AT Manual switch). To mount them i removed the lamps, grille, bumber and drilled through the holes of the fog light location with a bigger one. Sprayed the hole with waxcoat (prevent rusting) put the fog lamp housing in and wired it up. So from the battery: + -> fuse holder -> switch -> lamp1 -> lamp 2 -> battery -. My switch lights up when the lights are on. This is a failsafe switch. If the circle is not completed (one lamp broken) both will not work and the lamp in the switch will not light up. It is also possible to ground directly to the chassis but there is no lamp check with the switch. Only downside of these lamps are crossing rabbits on the motorway (read autobahn) it breaks the glass and those are expensive (happened twice )

The P switch turns on all the small lights on the outside of the car. It is possible that your front marker lights are not working (broken) and only the rear lights are on. It might be that there is a short in your P switch.

Subaru's are just rare in Europe, the most i have seen them are in Swiss and south Germany. In holland only 225 OBW were sold last year (for about 40.000 Euro and that is a lot of money (45% is tax)). Only the impreza's are very populair but for young people racing on the street and the forresters for caravan pulling.

Hi everyone, I got my hands on the Haynes manual (89100) which seems pretty nice, except a few things. It only handles the 2.2 and 2.5, but EJ20 from 1st 1991 series is same as EJ22 (i thought) and all measures are only in imperial (but a good conversion table is provided). I am going to do everything myself on this car because dealers are also not so populair here in holland, and i am handy enough. The Legacy wagon from 1991 with non-turbo EJ20 and automatic runs great still after 220.000 km (not a lot but lots above 120 miles/hour). Only the 4eat has been rebuilt cause some parts inside were molten togehter after it overheated at 125 mls/h (:cool: ) but my parents let it rebuild. I was looking in chapter 6 about the emission in section 6-13 and 6-14 the EGR valve is described but if i look on the photo's and under the hood i can not find the valve on my 1991 EJ20 (non-turbo, LHD). It should be right behind the intake manifold across the brakefluid resevoir but my EJ20 has notting there which looks like a valve there some empty threadholes on the cylinderhead which could be for the EGR but might also be for the a/c which i also do not have. Is the european model not equiped with an EGR valve or is it located somewhere else on the block? The illustration on 6-13 (6.2 typical EGR system) shows an tube going into the intake manifold through on of the intake pipes, i have not seen this on my block. Small second question: are the tightening tourques for the the bolts as in the haynes for the 2.2 soch the same as for the 2.0 soch because it is the same engine with just smaller bore?

So i understand from Nipper that seafoam is the duct tape for Mcguyver. But for those outside USA, can you (Nipper) check what is inside the bottle of seafoam. I just got a Haynes manual so i can clean the PCV valve (had to find out how to remove it and clean it).

How easy is it to get the backpanels out of the car? And then to remove that window??

Do you mean that plastic triangular shaped piece or the rubber. If I push on the plastic thing during driving the noise reduces, has something to do with it.

Do you mean that plastic triangular shaped piece or the rubber. If I push on the plastic thing during driving the noise reduces, has something to do with it.

This sounds quite interesting but i don't really get the position to be pinched (1st gen legacy). Maybe somebody can post a photo? I don't want to tear up my window rubber by punching wrong.

Hi I own a similair sub, have you accidently connected the green T shape connector and the white flat connector. These are for reading out the error codes from the cars computer (ECU). If you have both connected you should also hear the powerfan of the cooling system switching on and off. The check engine light (CEL) will come on and shows any detected and stored problems. These might help you further: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=61173 pictures but then under the dash.

I have a FWD automatic 2.0 without ABS. I was wondering in what mode does the automatic goes when by emergency stop the wheels lock up. Because the driven wheels are stoped in a very short time so the rpm's must fall as well. With a standard it is natural to just put two feet down on the clutch and brake. I have noticed I do the same when I make an emergency stop I just put two feet on the brake. (not that I make such stops often, its the big animals the cross the road once in a while) So driven wheels are stoped by brake -> engine rpm falls down (does it, never looked at the rev. counter) -> does automatic go in N or does it keep it in D keeping slight torque on the wheels?? I am just curious

Hi, Ok now we know how to solve this problem what is actually causing it? Is it depending on the quality (high octane), or just dirt coming into the tank in several years while tanking gas. I never had any problems like this with my 91 Legacy having 218K kms, i only use 95 or higher. I also never used seamfoam (do not even know what it is) while everybody is very positive about this product.

Just make an emergency stop test on a empty road. Where it is of course safe to do. You can also try it on a dirt road to feel the difference in braking force. On asphalt you will hear some skidding as well. If there is enough space, i mean big parking lot try steering feel what the car does. 15 to 25 mph is more than fast enough you don't wanna crash it I assume. And as told the sound is strange to braking a very rattling noise, try it with you windows open to hear it better. And the brake padel feels strange as well, like you feel loosing brake force because the pedal is vibrating as well. ABS is used to reduce loss of control when you have for example 2 wheels on the soft shoulder and you brake hard the wheels lock up and there is absolutely no control anymore. The car will go strait to the direction of the two wheels having most grip. ABS will prevent wheel lock up and the car will be controllable.

Sorry no a/c in holland whas an option, saves up that too expensive gasoline.

Do i have to remove the wipers from the complete housing to remove the plastic shroud?

Hi in my 91 legacy (LHD) I have tree leafs behind the vents of the heating system. I tried to remove the vent things using a screwdriver but was not succesfull. Maybe do i have to apply just more force to get them out or is it impossible to get them out. Then secondly how can i prevent this from happening again. In my old fiat panda i used like musquito netting witch worked perfectly:grin: . Can i put this on the heater air intake, where ever it is located.

Isn't that the normal 2.0 for europe. Put in the the early '90-'96 legacy's. I own a European Legacy 2.0 know as a EJ20 although it makes 116hp on my registration form.

No it only happened once, but what can be the relation with the coolant temp sensor. When this happened the car was cold and not used for 2 days at arround freezing temperatures.

I could remember that the tank was not filled up like 1/4. When I start the engine with the bonnet open it always smells gas/exaust mix smell, when it is cold. If it happens again is there any other method for an automatic to start a flooded engine than just keep on starting using the starter motor. I know it is better to wait like a couple of minutes between each attempt.

Last week I parked my car at a friends house on the horizontal driveway. After half an hour he had to take the trailer out of the driveway so I parked the car in front of the house on a steep incline (15%) with the front down the hill. Two days later I tried to go for my school exams (yes I know it really was friday the 13th) and started the car, but directly after 2 seconds it cut-off. I tried to restart it but not succesful, because the automatic forget the speed start using the hill. After 5 min of starting the engine (not continuously) it managed to start but idle was not really stable as normal. After driving 7 miles everything was ok, after that it started normally. Is this a fuel cut-off in the fuel filter, I think it ran out of fuel the first two seconds and than got waisted by a bad mixture of fuel/air. Is this normall when parked on a steep hill. The car ran 214K Km (133K M) and the fuel filter has never been replaced (use only high quality 95 or 98 octane, yes Europe). Driving uphill never gives problems.

Hi folks my cel light in my 92 legacy 2wd 4at 213k KM (no mountains in holland to use awd although nex will be awd) goes off very quickly. It usually goes off after 1,5 2 seconds but now it goes off within 1 second. I have two errors in the computer 11 and 32 but they are there for a long time. is there anything wrong with the computer or system?