rverdoold

Did you check the trans oil? If the TC looses oil it will stop working, and you loose drive. The pressure in the trans could be lost by leaking cooling line.

That is what I did too. Without belt the noise is completely gone. Will rebuild the alternator bearing and brush. Those seem easy. The ps pump bearings seems harder.as it is differently mounted but haven't looked carefully to those diagrams yet.

Indeed either alternator or ps pump. The alternator runs ok with no noticeable play in pulley, however the ps-pump has back and forward play in the pulley and imaginable torsional play. I reinstallEd the belt with somewhat less tension and noise is less. Are both bearings serviceable?

I have an 2009 outback with factory HID lights and the now lasted 100k miles. I checked the bulb and would not worry on bulb lifetime. However I think everyone putting after market HID lamps in their car should be put in front of it and see if it does not blind other traffic. Factory HIDS have shutters and special lenses. So stay with Leds and check for blinding.

Was going to check the alternator, should be easy by removing the belt. Is that bearing replaceable?

Not in Europe we do the same but than in km, so timing belt was serviced at 105K km (about 50K km ago). But it indeed sounds a bit like that though mine goes away with rmp increase.

I have this metal on metal ish clunking sound on idle. It is a EURO 2009 outback 2.5 (EJ253) with LPG conversion. At the moment of filming it was running on gasoline but also when warm the same sound persists only on idle when not in gear (in gear the rpm level is higher) when I throttle up it is gone and comes back when rpm drop to idle again. Oil level was fine though needs replacing. I really sounds from the front, and both serpentine belts look fine. Car has almost 100k miles and last valve adjustment was 25k miles ago and is advised to do so again. Also spark plugs were replaced 25k miles ago. Hope someone recognises it.

I have this one from DX.com: http://www.dx.com/p/volkswagen-vag-kkl-409-1-vw-audi-diagnostic-testing-cable-black-401361#.WCVsfeDhCCg But it is sold out. Anything which pops up with VAG and KKL will work for both SSM and CAN. FreeSSM gives most information but lacks logging, Romraider stopped working since i have a CAN car. Somehow it cant choose between SSM or CAN.

Perhaps you could shop in Europe, all non turbo imprezas, legacies and foresters with manual are dual range! And above that 95% of sold subarus are a manual.

Here in Europe we have the high fuel prices for a few decades more than in US and additionally extreme road taxes on weight and CO2 emission. We all have seen what car makers do to make their cars efficient on paper (and with software during test runs, not only VW they all do). Subaru is not a big seller in the Netherlands with usual 600 to 750 units a year!!!!!! Why?, because the high on paper CO2 emission. My 2009 OBW is rated 205 gr/km however I drive 170 gr/km in. If you need power from an underpowered car it becomes very very thirsty, if you need power from a well powered car, you just get it. The biggest fuel efficiency is your right foot and your eyes. And for short commuting people should take the bicycle or electric assisted bicycle.

Yes that is true. The ABS + VDC system detect a wheel speed difference and compensates for a moment. But since it is taking to long it senses a wheel size difference must be the cause and disables the VDC, cruise and x-mode systems. The awd system is disabled resulting in flashing of atf temp light. The fault is in the brake system via abs sensors (abs and brake light warning light). The CEL light is just to force you and go to a dealer. Cruise control will not work when any of the warning lights is on.

If the ABS is malfunctioning remove the ABS fuse, the system will stop working and the wheel should remain cool like the other. However I do think it is not the ABS and that your brake is still dragging on the rotor. When you replaced the caliper was it able to slide freely in the slide pins? Is the caliper able to move a bit when no pressure is on the brakes (is there some play)? (it could be that slide pins are stuck) Was the caliper new, and is the piston reseated (new seals and honed surface)? If all of above is YES, then oops... Somewhere in the line the backflow of brake oil is prevented leaving the brake stuck. It could be a faulty ABS actuator unit (the one on the strut mount with many brake lines on it). It possible is not your master brake cylinder as it only affects 1 wheel, unless the cross opposite wheel is affected to (drivers side back).

This could be a tricky one, not for the light bulbs but for the speedo. That one is cable driven by the gearbox, You can take the cluster out by lowering the steering wheel an unscrewing the two screws pointing upwards and two on the each side of the steering wheel, kind of shown here: http://www.dirally.com/forums/showthread.php?15602-Flat-Black-s-GF-Build Scroll down and there you see an impreza and a legacy/liberty cluster (the top one, green pcb, is legacy/liberty) on the backside you see the hole for the cable drive. Behind the black bajonet tabs there are light bulbs.

Mine was the sasme 2009 OBW, I really disliked how some of the wires are 'finished off'. I used some large protective sleeve and shrinkage tape (vulcanised over itself). Though most of these electronics are for communications i think (lamps and sensors), but correct me if I am wrong.

In mine 2009 EURO OBW it does, I can use FreeSSM and ECUedit and Romraider with the KKL line cable from deal extreme. (the same for my non-CAN, non-OBD2 1999 euro impreza.

I have a simple K-line or kkl line vag-com cable. Which has a USB connection (though being cheap it still has an official FTDI usb to serial chip). It worked on my 99 impreza and on my 2009 (CAN) OBW using FreeSSM. I think the CAN bus cars still use the SSM for their own protocol. I think the sampling interval on the SSM channel is higher than on a CAN bus, though CAN bus can have a higher through bitrate. So honestly any VAG-com kkl-line or k-line cable should work.

If you apply the brake lightly does it go away? Would that also be the case with loose ball joints? I currently think the similar noise on my 2009 obw is from rattling brake pads.

The eurodash is somewhat different but I once removed the radio/hvac system for that: Removed the two side trims left and right of the radio/hvac (clicked in plastic clamps) remove the gear selector pattern plate (clicked in plastic clamps) I think it is screwed in there the lower gray plate/trim

Most euro models i Know have a pre-tensioner in the rolling cassette (b-pillar) and a latch detector in the seat latch to see if it is in use. You could try to use the engineers flowchart and spray WD-40 in it. Some markets have two pre-tensioners. The latch pre-tensioner can be recognised by the use of a steel cable instead of a steel plate that attaches the latch to the chair/seat.

I even have them on my bicycle. We have found the gates belts of good quality. The quality of the rollers and bearings I don't know.

Had similar problem, cleaned the contacts with some sandpaper and replugged it. Deleted all codes and was never seen again. (on a 1991 legacy)

In my car the navigation system does not allow modifications on screen if you are not parked. Since this is useless, I hotwired the 'parking brake' with 12v so the unit thinks the car is always parked. I did it so I can enter an address or look at traffic information with TMC.

It is rather easy to exchange the radio/AC unit. You will have to undo the side trims on left and right side of the radio unit. Then undo all the 6 screws and there you go. Putting it back in is bit more hassle with all the cables (I have Nav unit as well), but not impossible. Do not forget the hazard light switch cable.

It could be that your brake fluid is saturated with water since it is very hygroscopic. Otherwise #3

My battery is dying, al least last week I needed a jump-start twice. The outside temperature dropped to 50s 40s but not freezing yet. I suspect the 5 year old battery not holding charge very well, but I will have to look into parasitic electric eaters too. The current battery is 60Ah and measures 232 x 173 x 225 mm (LxWxH). Preferably I want a bigger capacity battery. Does anybody has any experience putting and fitting a bigger battery in a 2008 outback/legacy (AT)?