rverdoold

Sorry no question about cars here, but some related fluids. For a scientific experiment we have to rapidly freeze our samples. Normally we do this by dipping them in liquid nitrogen at approx -200 C. But this is in the lab, with a liquid nitrogen tap. Now we are going to conduct this experiment outside the lab and we can not take the liquid nitrogen. So we thought of an alternative: 1. Mixing ethylene glycol (pure) 2/3 with 1/3 water, and add dry ice, now we should be able to reach -60 C in liquid state. But ethylene glycol is to toxic to work with! 2. Mixing propylene glycol (pure) 2/3 with 1/3 water, same as number 1 but less toxic. However we can not get our hands on it from car parts shops, only from chemical supplier at 99% purity while 85% would be sufficient so it is quite expensive. 3. ATF, but when does it solidifies (or what is the melting point)? Other oils will be to viscous and to dirty to use, ATF I think is not so oily as motor or gearbox oil.

You mean the power steering oil reservoir?

Biggest thing to worry about is Greek traffic, I have lived in Patras for 5 months it was Crazy .

Interesting, but why they were never offered in Holland (road tax by weight and fuel type) is still a mistery to me. I thought the basic 1.6 block is downsized 2.2 and shares the same baseblock as the 1.8 with longer pistons. That is why 1.6 are prone for cold piston slapping, but no worries i have seen many of those exceed the 300k km mark without any issue.

Just out of curiousoty, is there much to get out from a 1.6, i thought the 95 HP (EU) was quite the max.

Valvoline 75w90 TDL for both gearbox and rear-diff

What car is it? (sorry I do not recognize it as a subaru directly so it is either newer than 2003 or older then 1990).

Just make sure they are side airbag compatible! The airbag would go off if necessary but it might not project you as it was intended.

The old ej16 is big fun in the alps, have to rev constantly to >3500 rpm to get up the 'hill'.

Did the ej15 not replace the ej16, in Europe it did 1995 to 2005 = ej161 2004 to now = ej15 20013 to now is ej16 (new one) with CVT in impreza

But any subaru later than 2003 has BAS = Brake assist system, however this will only detect the speed the brake pedal was pushed and decide to override and give max brake power. So it is a system to reduce braking time if the driver does not apply enough force on the pedal in an emergency stop. This should help a bit. But still it is what connects the car to the ground which had the give the friction. Never save 10 bucks per tire, buy decent ones!!

So you basically say: The filter on the strut tower is removed A new one is placed on the fuel pump inside the gas tank So what is there instead on the strut tower, just a fuel line connector, linking the two lines? As far as I can remember any 4 cyl EJ subaru until at least 2008 has the strut tower filter.

I am not sure my 99 EJ16 has a MAF, i think it is calculated from intake air temperature and atmospheric pressure. Note that the ej16 is the most basic model you could get. I would for sure check the timing belt it should have been done at 100k and 200k, valve adjustments are every 60k (all KM) as far as i remember.

But it starts right away after it stalled and then runs fine! I will check the fuel pressure. Since it runs on propane and only starts on gasoline the pressure might be low indeed. (PVC system is basic 1 line and its clean, valve is ok, oil consumption is >100 ml over 12000 km)

Sorry for semi-hijacking the thread (although it could still apply to the thread starter) Plugs are new, so are HT leads (and fuel filter too). Weird enough if it drops below 200 rpm and it stalls and I restart immediately (not flooding it) it runs as a shine at 1100 rpm slowly dropping to 750. I really have no idea what it is, and usually just stall it on purpose because I know the second start is OK. If i floor the pedal on the first attempt I can also 'save' it from stalling. Weird!

The whole top hat has an orientation (at least with mine), There were notches 4WR - FWD - 4WL, see the images.

That is also what I was thinking. However, my 99 impreza (1.6) is hard to start when cold, and stalls immediately once it started, or stays at 200 rpm. Strange enough my ECT (engine coolant temp sensor) is spot on. If it is -5 C it says -6 (on OBD port reader), and it 0 it shows 0. For me that shows it is something else, but what I have no idea. In this case he should check the ECTS. I was thinking it could be the IAC valve?

Some questions to fill in! Milage/KM: Build year: AT/MT: 2wd/awd: last valve clearance adjustment: What oil did you put in (synthetic, and viscosity): Timing belt: could timing be off? that would be bad. Was it replaced? I have a 1.6 on LPG but also still runs on gasoline. I found this motor very throttle aggressive (not so smooth compared to 2.0 or 2.5). The fuel efficiency is not that good due to the low motor output, unless you do not increase over 3,000 rpm

I have a key hidden under my car which can only open the doors. This as a lesson learned in Norway in the middle of no-where.

In the same boat now. Last trip (4k miles) the passenger side connector completely melted. Including damaging the rubber boot around the connector. I think it melted because poor conduction between the connector and the lamp. Unfortunately I was stopped by the German Zoll (border control) and those are not to mess with, I could not fix it in the pouring rain, only luck I had is that it is not obligatory to run with lights on during the day. After they went through our papers and luggage (I am Dutch so no issues to travel in EU) I switched the lamps off and said good bye. Made a quick fix now because it is obligatory to have them on in Poland and Baltics. On the topic: Why ceramics, better cooling or less change for melting (obviously)?

Could you tell what oil you have been using? Just curious.

Could it be that the automatic is overfilled? as in too much ATF. I had that once and it really did not like it, neither did the lock-out work. I removed some oil and then it was fine.

WOW! dispose on the ground! Basically it contains water and glycol (or propylene glycol) this is a molecule similar to alcohol. Material safety data sheets suggest to deliver to proper waste facility whatever that means. (as in; if they tell you to pour it in the ground!) I think it can be incinerated (burnt) in a waste to electric facility.

The cold start fuel mixture is also based on water temperature. This is a second sensor which is not the one for the dial. You can measure it via OBD2 probably. I have a similar problem with an 1.6 from 1999. It starts fine after 3 to 5 cranks but if freezing it nearly always stalls. If I restart immediately it runs fine and stays on, if I wait it floods. This is only with a cold engine, when warm there is no problem at all. I live with it since I know what to do with it, and it starts from just a few cranks, in contrast with yours. Also if I open the throttle it prevents from stalling. I was thinking at the IAC valve but not sure.

Came along this video on youtube: It is a 50 min video where different cars drive over rollers, this time it is not a commercial but just normal people in Lithuania. It surprises me that most Subarus are not able to dive off the rollers with two side wheels on the ground. This most likely because most EU models have an open diff at the back. Actually most AWD cars have open rear diffs. However, at 4.25 an old audi quatro (Torsen awd system) also shows slip but then suddenly jumps over. I assume the driver uses the handbrake to send more power to the front. Question: With an open rear and front diff does using the handbrake to lock the rear and thus sending more power to the front help. And can it damage the brake system or center diff?