rverdoold

As long as you do not run on Propane (LPG) the 5 should not give any problems. At next change check how the colour looks like.

Is your handbrake not on. You changed the rear rotors, can you spin your wheels freely when lifted from the ground? On the other hand a AWD car should pull through the handbrake.

I would check the exhaust heat shield they really tend to rattle all the way at certain revs. Start at the front of the exhaust and check all the heat shields with a screwdriver pushing them If any of them moves it rattles while driving. You can use hose clamps to make them shut up.

Yes until now (40 k miles) It did not gave any problems. Probably when I will replace my brake pads and discs next time I will order a refurbish kit and try them again but that will be at least an other 60k away. Until then I drive it like it is now. What I do at every interval (7.5k) is taking the brake pads off the car, and check if they can move freely, additionally I clean and regrease the slide pins too (slidepin grease from european brake vendor) and apply copper paste on the brake pads and guide plates.

Could be indeed the lower slide-pin sleeve. Here there is an exploded view: http://opposedforces.com/parts/forester/us_s12/type_6/brake_system/front_brake/ I assume it is part a4 (under label 12) I have removed these on both sides because it caused my slide pin to be jammed and took me 2 hours with a hammer to carefully get it out.

I have been searching for this port to mount an oil pressure/temp sensor but could not find it. Could you give bit more precise description where it is located?

The actuator is vacuum controlled, maybe the tube/hose is porous and leaking.

Though glass expands very little under heating it does expand. I think there is a sharp spot of metal where the glass expands against and breaks. I assume your window does not shatter into pieces but just a single or double crack. The location where this is on the windowframe might be the source of the breaking. When they replaced my windscreen they had put ducktape from the roof onto the windscreen. This stayed on for 1 day. It was to prevent the window sinking down (downwards to the end of the frame at the wipers), when the glue hardens. Maybe your windscreen sunk to the lowest place of the frame. At the moment you switch on the heater it wants to expand there the most but there is no space. It probably can not push the rest of the windscreen upwards and it cracks to release the mechanical stress.

Sorry to bump this old thread up, but I have a similar problem. The car drives fine all the time and very efficient as always. However if it was freezing overnight the next morning it starts very hard. It goes on on the 3rd cranck (not more then normal) but only runs at 200 or 300 rpm. If I engage gear and clutch the car tries to move. Then it suddenly jumps to 1200 rpm and runs fine. Except this morning. I gave some gas in the hope it would jump up but it flooded and was nearly unable to start for the next 10 / 15 attempts. Could this be related to the temperature senders. As far as I know there are two. 1 for the ECU and 1 for the meter in the dash. If I read from the ECU I assume I read the temp from the 1 only giving signal to the ECU and not to the dash meter. The motor is a ej16 from 1999 (impreza)

Front struts? maybe. Could be serpentine belts as well, you can try driving without and see if it is gone.

Lately the IIHS introduced a small overlap frontal crash test mimicking a crash with a tree, car at only 25% of the front end of the car. Subarus 'survived' this new type of testing but it made me think. A few years ago I have seen a similar study in Germany, here they introduced a rather big fender brace which reflects the colliding object. Unfortunately the video is in German for those who not understand the images will say enough. Maybe a good idea to construct a somewhat bigger fender brace. (and yeah today I drove the BRZ )

He says with a big smile on his face. Like me

A turbo on LPG, I would not try it. Unless it is liquid injected right above the pistons. It is getting a lot hotter in there.

Mine was 1600 euro in Holland (Hengelo near German border). I have no idea what Turboguzzi paid in Italy. But Poland will de definitly cheaper. Yes LPG is a lot cheaper to drive on, and 190k km is not that much.

He lives in Germany, I think TUV will ask for lots of papers, stamps and signatures how it is converted to LPG. However raises a few questions: How many KM did your engine run? How old is the car itself? As in, is it financially still attractive to convert this car?

Curious what systems they use in Australia. In holland it is direct injected LPG right above the intake valve. It is extremely unlikely that you get manifold backfires with this system. I now own a ej161 on LPG and before a EJ20 and we have had a EJ25 as well. Subarus run great on LPG because they hard valve seats. If your EJ22 has HLAs it is even better. No valve worries. Ah and my car starts on normal gasoline and after 500m to 1 km (depending on temperature) it automatically goes to LPG. I can force start on LPG but it is not advised. I would advice to get an injected system like mine or turboguzzi.

Is it not locked, as in key-locked (sorry but it can happen). You can try to grap the unlock handle and push hard in and then pull very hard. It can open with a loud bang. I had it once when a steel wire was locked with the locking mechanism.

You live in or near Canada what oil you use when it gets colder then -20 C?

Very simple, I just buy fully synthetic 5w40 in the API SM class (or SJ and above) from a German manufacturer (Liqui Moli / Megium) in a can of 20 liters. This because I drive in summer at 30 degrees C, and at -25 C in winter. I change oil every 12500 km with a new filter and never had to add any oil in these 12500 km. The car uses about 300 to 500 ml over this distance interval. Best indications of car problems are oil consumptiion and fuel consumption, if these are low and there are no weird noises or shaking then it is fine. (gearbox is Valvoline synpower TLD 75w90 just for the record)

Sorry for missing punctuation. It was a question. Hydrogen gas with spark seems very more likely then frying an ECU.

How did you connect the jump cables? Positive to positive and Negative to Negative This method can fry an ECU (I have never seen it, maybe it is a myth). It is better to connect positive to positive and negative to the engine bracket (hook loop) of the empty car.

Hard to imagine but they might have corroded to the hub block. Try WD-40 in the lug nut holes. Remember to clean your disc brakes afterwards otherwise it will not stop properly.

I have indeed noticed this a couple of times as well. Usually I try to keep the lap-belt part tight, and thinking of getting a CG-clip although they are hard to get in Europe. But this problem occurs in nearly all subarus since they share the same seat platform. (mine is an Impreza 1999)

The roof construction is very strong. The pillars can even hold the weight of the car when rolled over. The biggest problem is center of gravity, keep it as low as possible. So if only on top of the roof something heavy is placed I would also place some heavy things on the rear seats to lower the center of gravity. 200 lbs with easy driving should not be any problem.

I am curious how the 205/60r15 fits the standard legacy. I am trying to get these tires to replace my 205/55r15 tires. Because the 60s I can get in a more off-road profile (pirelli). But that is on a standard impreza.