rverdoold

Also noticed that, however there is a big difference in winter and summer LPG. At least in holland, Germany and Latvia. What happened to your dual range handle?

Interesting system. Looks very similar of what I have, only my injectors are mounted differently but also inject directly above the port. Did they take the inlet manifold off the engine? I got a 52L tank and manage to drive about 500 to 600 km depending on temp ect ect. Curious where did they mount the tube from the tank to the evaporator? With mine the ran it aside of the transmission tunnel and comes in in the wheel-arch on the front right (facing driving direction). I am a bit afraid of stones hitting the tube driving many stoned gravel roads in Scandinavia and Baltics.

Which Justy you have? They are very/quite popular over here cause they were one of the cheaper AWDs you could get. Now we have the Terzia (a toyota copy with no AWD). I drove the XV Diesel few weeks ago with 6 speed MT, it drives fine and loads of torque compared to my 1.6 impreza. But due to weird Dutch pricing this car is unaffordable for the average family (1.6 starts at 29K euro, and diesel at 36.5K euro) Don't bother converting to dollars it does not make any sense.

I usually never have the clutch depressed only while shifting. I always use the neutral position. Issue is it is not easy to take the engine out cause propane conversion. Dropping the gearbox seems easiest option.

I guess indeed the wobble is normal (cable operated). The noise has to be the release bearing. So correct me if I am wrong: (car standing still) Engine running, gear is neutral, so engine turns the clutch disc and the mainshaft in the gearbox. The release bearing is stationary. When I now press the clutch the mainshaft stops spinning and so does the clutch disc itself. But the release bearing starts to spin. If it makes noise when clutch is pressed it must be the release bearing. Right?

I also only know them from Tell-Sell commercials, which was for me enough to not buy them. Only in this case they could have been of good help. Maybe Autozone could help to just unbolt the locked one, then drive home on 4 bolts per wheel.

Find a local car rim thief? I once have seen a socket which was filled with 100dreds of tiny pins which could be pushed inwards. Therefore it would fit over any bolt. But I have no idea where you could get them. sorry.

LPG for the win (which brand system do you have installed and does your 2.0 has hydraulic lash adjusters of manual valve adjustment? I had the valves adjusted every 35K but will move that to 50K km now)

When I engage my clutch it shakes/vibrates somewhat more then you would expect. And when the pedal is fully pressed I can hear a very little grind. Could this be the signs of the whole clutch assembly going bad? Additionally the clutch fork wobbles a bit very similar as shown in this video It is not my video but I guess someone with the same problem The car is a 1.6 MT with dual range and about 90K miles on it. When I got the car at 40K miles I was told the clutch was replaced. I think only the plate was replaced not the flywheel, and not the pressure plate.

WOW, good nothing bad happened!!! Did you have a glass of beer already with your angel?

My cables are still bad and cost about 50 dollar EACH!!! over here at the dealer. And from time to time (autumn when moist) I also have backfires, 2 to 3 cyl running but never had a CEL.

Could be bad spark in the chambers the origin of these problems could be: Bad/worn spark plugs Wrong brand spark plugs -> get NGK plugs Worn spark leads/cables -> get original or NGK Does it happen with wet or very moist engine bay (= cables) Additionally could be broken inlet valve (backfire in top) or broken outlet valve (backfire in exhaust/catalytic unit). I would check the plugs and cables first, if not do a compression check.

Venice is nice, did trip last year from Arco (near Riva-del-garda) was quite surprised it was hard to get LPG on the autostrada from Padova to Verona. Curious about the MPG you get. On LPG I get 11 km/L or ~26 MPG (on gasoline it is about 33 MPG) with the 1.6 impreza awd

Good to hear you got the conversion. It took me about 37k km to surpass my investment. Now it drive for 17 eurocent per KM all inclusive (LPG, insurance, maintenance, gasoline, road-tax and 1000 euro yearly depreciation). Without the depreciation it is 13 cent/km. What tank size you have? and where do you leave the spare? In holland they unfortunately drill a large hole in the side of the rear wing (which starts rusting again now within a year since I took it apart and cleaned it, and repainted it grrrrrrr). I use MyCarMon to register all expenses, last time I filled gasoline it was in Livigno for 1.07 /L

Sounds like for a job to do in winter :cool:

Interesting opinions and knowledge, Thank you. Heating and cooling is not a direct problem if you choose the right material. I also bake the vacuum system at couple hundred degrees (F).

Ok to explain my question further than in the title. Current head gaskets are engineered as such that you require a flat cylinder block top and a flat head surface. Both are connected using ~3 bolts per cylinder and a piece of flat material in between. I work a lot with ultra high vacuum systems (<10-9 Bar) also here gaskets are extremely important. However the big difference is the pressure. Vacuum is negative, engine cylinders are positive. However sealing remains the main similarity. In the vacuum system the copper gasket (usually ring shaped) has two flat surfaces, however the two connecting parts (lets say cylinder top and head) have a circle cut out in which the copper ring fits. But there is an extra edge which fits in the middle of the copper ring it is usually rather sharp which actually cuts into the copper (so called ConFlat http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/6/61/Conflat_Flange.jpg. ) Would this type of engineering be suitable for engine manufacturing? However it would drastically change the design of a head gasket.

We got this model in Holland in December 2011 with a 1.6 (edge of underpower) and the 2.0. Both with CVT and an incredible 35 mpg for an AWD. Unfortunately due to the dutch tax system this car is very expensive. Only by the end of the year we will receive the new (similar to xv) impreza.

Good to know, big torches are quite expensive and the small ones are worth trying. Thanks.

That stucks!! (proper spelling). A single piston would be easier in this to open. When on is stuck of the dual piston it is really hard. When you got the reman you had to give the core unit (your broken one) as exchange? Powder coating, looks nice. How well does it reduce rust? How hot you have to bake it on? Synthetic brake fluid, any specific brand names? Dit our subies needed DOT 4 or 5.1?

Indeed it slides on the ring. But I had oxidation/rust in the cylinder so much it could contact the piston. If they look spotless then you don't have to hone them and just replace the rubber rings. My cylinder on the other hand had some nice rust on there. So much that if I had locked my wheels it would not even release the brake of 1 wheel. And that only because of rust. Sanding the piston did magic trick. Just keep in mind brake fluid is extremely hygroscopic. Working in low humidity is much better than high. However you are replacing big part of the fluid while bleeding the system.

basic strategy: Tools: basic jack and wrenches Brake oil brake cleaner Copper grease high temp ceramic grease Brake refurbish kit (2x) I always do both sides Brake cylinder hone + slow drill some sandpaper Remove wheel and check if the bleed nipple can be opened (easiest when still on car), just open and close it. Undo lower slide pin bolt and remove brake pads. Place a bowl/bucket under the caliper and have a friend slow pump the brake pedal so the piston moves out. (you will have to remove the brake fluid anyway) When the piston is loose in the rubber socket keep the pedal to the floor with a crowbar or a stick using the chair. This will prevent more oil running out. Undo the banjo bolt and remove the brake line from the calliper. Undo the top slidepin bolt and remove the calliper from the car. Remove the slidepin dustcaps and slide pins, clean the inside of the holes with a stickbrush (plastic). Remove the piston and the dustcap rubber, and checker piston and calliper for rust on the sliding parts. Clean with brake cleaner. Use a brakecylinder hone to rehone (remove rust) the cylinder by having the hone on a low speed drill and making up and down movements (honing). Clean cylinder with brake cleaner and put a bit of brake oil on the internals and feel if the surface is smooth. Put the piston in a vice and clean with brake cleaner. Us a long rectangular piece of fine sandpaper to remove rust. Put the sandpaper around the piston so you do a uniform sanding of the surface. Clean with brake cleaner and lubricate with brake oil. Lubricate the inside of the NEW rubber piston seal rubber and place it onto the calliper first. Now push the piston back in. You can use some bend paperclips to stretch the opening of the rubber seal. Push the piston back in and allign the seal properly. Remove the excess of brake oil on the outside. Now lubricate the cleaned slide pins with high temp (ceramic) grease and push them in the holes. Move them up and down a bit, the should slide easily. Put the dust caps/seals over them. Mount calliper back on the car by the top slide in and open the bleed nipple and connect the banjo bolt. Put back the brake pads (grind the flat surface over some smooth street tiles/asfalt to remove the glazing), and connect the lower slide pin bolt. Open the reservoir and fill with new brake fluid. Have a friend help with bleeding brake system and make sure your reservoir never runs out of fluid!! Do the other side and get a beer!! This is how I did it last time. Enjoy. edit: If you can not open the bleed nipple or it brakes off get a refurbished or scrapyard caliper

Maybe a compression test. It shows basic damages to the combustion chamber as in burned exhaust valve. You have changed the sparks, air & fuel filter which would indeed be the starting points. Maybe one of the cams is out of sync with the rest. Hence a compression test can show that.

I know the 1.6 and 1.8 in europe are very prone to piston slap when cold. Maybe you can do a compression test? Or what might be as well is that the spark plug came loose. This could explain knocking as well. (if running fine, did you change driving pattern, lots of city, maybe a sticking brake pad?) What happened with the spark plug? did it got hit by the piston or just broke off? If so what make?

How much is actually driven with the car. It could be there is air in the lines, fuel filter ect. I notice it that my car takes longer to start because it starts on gas but it runs on LPG. So after few minutes after starting it switches and from then is not run on gasoline anymore. The next time I start it it takes longer. I always assumed the fuel seeps somewhat back to the tank.