rverdoold

Last time it was done on our old Legacy I did not even had a drivers licence and then it was done at the 'ex-subaru dealer' with original parts. Perhaps check germany they have quite good aftermarket parts.

Weird, I thought fuel prices in Austria are sky-high as well

We have been driving our outback 2.5 LPG for 8 hours at 100 m/h (Autobahn!!!) No problems whatsoever. Usually I drive between 60 and 65 to be gentle with the fuel consumption

It is discs in the front and drum only in the rear. They are not seased as far as i know. I can turn the wheels when off the ground (it is AWD). Could be indeed the road a bit as well. But also on snow it wants to go a bit sideways. But never lost control, probably because I lift up my foot if I want to steer.

When I drive on a slippery wet road and I lock up all the wheels the rear immediately pulls to the right. Unlock brakes puts car straight again. This happens only when I lock the wheels. Under normal circumstances it just brakes and drives fine. What could be the cause of this unbalance. All tires are the same, tire pressure is the same. Front brakes where refurbished (myself), and rear brakes I have never touched. (I have to think if I pressed the clutch or not, most probably yes) The car is a 1999 Impreza station 1.6 with no ABS (yes not standard here) with 80k miles.

I nearly loctite every bolt/nut with little bit of loctite 248. For the ones which have to stay put. On others I use copper grease to prevent them rusting in.

That is bad You really are giving me ideas.

That is a pity, any damage?

There goes your week of 'free' high quality biological meat!!!!!

Thanks for the link, Now lets see if there are any european models in there!! It says 'disconnect battery' when doing airfilter replacement!!! Never did it. Well I could think that there might be some fuel fumes in the intake manifold which come out and then a static spark can make BOOM. I think even a dealer mechanic would not do that.

The timingbelt and idlers are both original subaru. I tensioned the drive belt of the powerstearing not to long ago, only now it was very cold and very moist (60 feet fog) the whole car iced up on the front. I should have blocked part of the radiator to keep the engine bay somewhat warmer. Drivebelt squeal is usually at start and when reving up by engine braking (downshifting). I will check the timing belt and drivebelt tension.

But if it is seized up my temp gauge should skyrocket up, right? Car is 1999 impreza with with about 80k miles. timing belt and pulleys replaced at 60k. So a broken waterpump just ceases or starts leaking?

Yesterday was driving through -6F and upon shifting back I could hear a squeel. It could be the v-belt for the power steering and dynamo. But what if it is the waterpump. What are the symptoms for a broken waterpump, the temp gauge stayed where it always goes right below the middle.

How many miles and did you own it from the beginning or was it bought used? Does the car/clutch shake when changing gear? Or does it feel 'sticky' when shifting gear? Could clutch is worn, pressure plate with spring is not returning (worn pressure groups).

But the test connectors would not give error codes when connected. Unless, problems are found during the self test when the self test connectors are connected as well (two black ones in combination with the green ones).

Well, first you have to get over here, then you have to figure out where I live. Followed by where I park my car. Ok once you got that far, you have to get inside the car and figuring out that there is nothing really worth stealing. Additionally there is an immobiliser. But any professional thief does not care about that thing and if he is really a pro then he does not need the key to get in. Does subaru acutally has deadlocks on cars. Our opel had it. If you pressed the lock key on the remote twice you could never open the door, even not by pulling the lock/unlock switch. In a test it took a retired (read arrested) car thief more then 5 min to force the lock which is the limit in holland. Usually a thief would not spend more then 5 min to open a door. It is quicker to smash the window.

The ECU did not like loosing 12v probably also the TCU is confused. Did you try clearing the codes following by reconnecting the harness connectors again. It must be not making contact somehow.

Also had it once. Take a long metal flat bar like a ruler, and screw a bolt and nut in the hole on the end. Pry between the rear window (there are somewhat looser) and poke the lock/unlock button. Sorry to say but frame-less subarus are very easy to break open. Still wondering why one thief had to smash the lock out and make a lot of damage

Maybe loose heatshield of exhaust touching the driveline components?

I have a spare key hidden somewhere under the car. It is without the immobiliser so you can not start but at least open the door. (only nobody should see you putting it under the car, trailer wiring into bumper is a good place!)

It should be still liquid (according to the specs) it is heated to prevent the injector from freezing. Because it chills at the moment it is injected. But it should be hot enough I would think so. Sorry: The system I have in the 1.6 is vapourised (VSI). And the system my father had in the 2.5 outback (2005) was liquid injection (LPI) The car from the movie has most likely the liquid injection.

No dissolution to me. I know I have less power on LPG. But the graph seems coloured incorrect to me then. I agree with you that it matches the HP curve. I am very curious how much power my 1.6 has on LPG having to pull about 1300kg without me. While that outback with nearly a liter more of displacement weights about 200 kg more. I should have 70 KW and about 143 NM on gasoline so -10% is not so much left. It is not a racer and far from fast but ok it is cheap to drive. I have no idea if it got retuned. There are 2 ECUs in the car; the original for the gasoline part and the LPG which communicates with the car-ecu. I thought LPG was octane rated at RON 108 or even somewhat higher. I know it really differs per season, winter LPG has more propane I get lower MPGs compared to cold autumn or spring, not much but noticeable. The system is basically a tank with a pump pumping liquid LPG to the heat exchanger (connected to the inner circle of the engine heatings system). LPG is heated to about 60 degrees C and from there a single hose goes to the piezo injectors. These injectors wear somewhat faster compared to gasoline. About 120k KM but that depends on the driving style I think. The LPG ECU gets all sensor data from the normal ECU and manages knocking and spark timing as well as injection pulse length. I can monitor these values from the ecu with romraider. Things I can not change but are possible are switching temperatures gasoline to lpg, power pressure (some systems can give double injection at full throttle or even combining gasoline and LPG parallel) but that is for racing cars.

Sorry for the late response I lost the thread. Which valve you mean the filling valve. In holland we have different system with a big build in bajonet valve. Will find a photo for you. I also found this, sorry it is in dutch but it is a dyno (now racing just checking a older car) of a outback 2004 on LPG. They test the dyno both for gasoline and lpg. This should a direct injection propane as well. Basics 2004 outback 2.5 with 260K KM, should have 165 HP and 226 NM. However, it peaks 145 HP on gasoline and 130 on LPG. But the torque on gasoline is 190 and on lpg 200 NM so it has more torque on LPG but less HP. http://www.autoweek.nl/video/2613/op-rollenbank-subaru-outback

Stupid questions (never exists): What did they change to make them from NI to interference. Do the valves open further?

Although in summer half of holland migrates to france, italy and where else in europe. And loads of them with caravans (trailers) going into the mountains. But yes hill assist if available is now put with big letters in the spec list.