alexk02

This may be silly, but can you verify that it is not the fuel level sensor? On my 95' Brighton it crapped out after about a year and was always reading low by about 2 -3 gallons. Check how much fuel you are putting in and compare to mileage driven. If the float in the tank is leaking and sinking lower - it will give you lower reading on the fuel gauge. Also, make sure timing is correct. Have you changed t-belt recently?

99' Legacy Wagon, 5 spd, 231K mi. Transmission was needlessly changed at 150K. Leaks some oil (no puddles under the car, though), still gives close to 30 MPG if driven gingerly.

1.Can anyone recommend knowdgeable subie mechanic in East Brunswick/New Brunswick/Oldbridge area in NJ? 2. Need to replace tires on 15' rims. Would 195/65-15 size fit with existing struts on Legacy L wagon without any modifications? Thanks, Alex K

Nipper, yes it is a cable on my '99. It is not an OBW, just Legacy wagon. Anyway, I discovered there was a fair amount of slack in that cable. I adjusted it (still within adjustment range ) and the pedal stays up now. Does not stick any more.

I have exactly the same problem, except my clutch is cable. 1999, Legacy Wagon, 30th anniversary. Any advice for this case? Was there a CSB for it? Thanks, Alex

Neo, OBPRC - Old Bridge Pistol & Rifle Club Those videos were fun to watch. My wagon is not OB so it sits pretty low, has 211K miles on it and is my only trasportation for now. I am planning to do an outbackification on it (OB struts and 205/65/15 tires), to raise it a bit - then I'll be properly equipped for romping the Barrens. Thanks for the invite, though. Perhaps in the fall. Alex

I was not aware of this meet, it wasn't mentioned in the "events" section. I used to belong to OBPRC in your town, actually less than 15 minuts from me. I am not a big fan of meets, but it's nice to know a fellow subarite and forum user is near-by.

njdrsubaru, I guess I asked for it:) . All you are missing is a few 2X4's to build a small bridge or a ramp if you decide to cross minor creeks:) Everyone, thanks for replies. I think I need to get a couple of extra items you mentioned in your posts. Alex

Folks, I am curious what do most people keep in the vehicle as their tool/parts kit for a typical drive-around/work commute (60-90mi round trip) for 95-99 Legacy. I have a standard 3/8 drive metric set (about 25 pieces: sockets ranging from 10 to 17mm), spark tester, a couple of multi-blade screw drivers, pliers, small cutter, a small pry bar, small compressor/light combo, 1 gal plastic fuel can (empty).

Good to hear your Pretty One will be back on skis soon. The silver lining is that you got a Honu II. Best of luck to both.

1999 Leagacy L Wagon, 5 spd. 206K miles. Bought used in 2003 with 127K. New clutch, new (used) trans, new belts, crank/cam seals, water pump, valve cover gaskets, right whell bearing. Everything else - original. Still gets ~30 MPG if driven gingerly. Some oil usage ~ qt/5K mi. Synthetic oil. Alex K

Also, if you have a chain wrench (I got a 24" chain wrench from Harbor Freight for $20 including shipping), you can wrap the pulley with some old belts, secure them by duct tape for pulley protection and use that chain wrench to hold pulley in place. Same chain wrench can be used in the same manner for cam pulleys bolt tightening. It is quite simple for one person to do. If I could do it, I think anyone can. :cool: Good luck.

1999 Legacy Wagon, 2.2, MT. After replacing thermostat, coolant leak has developed from around thermostat cover. That piece of black plastic has metal inserts where the two bolts go in. Tee spec torque is 60 in/lbs. I don't have a torque wrench that goes that low, so I snugged it up as best as I could remember the original was. I did not want to crack it with too much force. There is no gasket specified for that coupling in Haynes. Is anything recommended anyway? some sort of Permatex? Thanks, Alex:-\

Outbackus, the clutch pedal doesn't drop to the floor. It stays at about 1/2 to 1/3 of its normal height. If I flick it up to its normal height with my toe and then depress it, it travels the first 1/2 to 2/3 of the way much easier than it used to before it stuck low. I appreciate the suggestions. I'll try them and report next week. Alex

I had similar problem - forgot to plug in crank position sensor after changing t-belt. It cranks, but does not start.

99 legacy 30th anniversary ed., 2.2l, 5MT, 200K mi. Two questions: 1. Since mid-summer until about three weeks ago the clutch pedal was sticking low on occasion. I'd flip it up with my toe and it would go up with a thump. Recently, though it's been stuck low, so even after I flip it up, it would travel toward the low position where it disengages, very easily. I checked a few posts regarding this, they all seem to point to hydraulic problems. I glanced under the hood and could not find an additional reservoir for hydro-fluid for the clutch. Is this pedal problem specific to hydraulic clutches? Is there a sure way to tell if my clutch is hydraulic? What could be if my clutch is not hydraulic? 2. A coolant leak has developed right after I replaced thermostat. Is there a special sealant than must be used between the thermostat cover and engine block? Hynes does not mention any. Thanks in advance for any advice. Alex

Complete success! Big thanks to all who chipped in with advice. Chain wrench was the key to tighten the cam sprockets and the crank pulley bolts. Failure to start was the simplest thing, of course - unplugged crank position sensor. Plugged it back in - she started from half a turn! USMB rules! Alex

Thanks for encouragement, guys. I still would like to use some tool to lock the camshaft pulleys while torqueing them down and do the same with the crank pulley. Would a chain wrench be safe to use (with the old belt used for cushioning)? The right cam pulley (as you're looking at the engine from the front) is metal with sort of spokes, but the left one is solid with a huge size heagonal nut shape protruding. I guess the special Subaru tool fits over that nut-like protrusion to hold the pulley for tightening. I am planning to use the chain wrench to hold it on the outside. Has anyone used this method? Does it work? Does it work for crank pulley (enough gripping power)? The chain wrench is from Harbor Freight 42-717 - 2VGA 24" long chain grips up to 6" diameter objects. thanks, Alex

tcspeer and others who replied - many thanks! tcspeer's solutiongave me the idea. I tried it first, it was very close, but not quite. I removed the small toothed idler and bottom left idler as he suggested. Put T-belt on everything else. Then re-installed the toothed idler (with some wiggling/pulling), then fairly easily the bottom leftsmooth idler. The big ooopsie came when I forgot to install the belt guide over the crankshaft sprocket. When the belt was on, tensioner pin pulled and engine locked in 5th, I tried to tighten the left camshaft sprocked bolt and the belt jumped. I reinstalled it again, managed to tighten the camsprockets. Eventually, when tightening the crankpulley bolt, the belt jumped again. End of story, the cams and crank are out of position. I am not sure about the timing relationship between them now. The car is 1999, 2.2l, the VIN is at the first post. Is it interference engine or not? How can I get the timing alignment beck in order without doing any damage? I suspect that the belt guide over the crank sprocket (the one I forgot to put in) could've prevented belt from jumping. I came to conclusion that a good chain wrench with long handle is required for this job to hold the sprockets/pulleys properly, at least for re-assembly.

Guys, thanks a lot. The simplest solution turned out to be the correct one. I tried switching the bulbs in rear turn signals - no dice. Tried the front - bingo! The fast flashing followed the bulb. A quick trip to Pep Boys and a pair of new Sylvania bulbs later - the problem was solved. ultimatesubaru.org comes through again. The amount of knowledge and experience is enormous. You guys are great! Alex

Good job! I have a few questions: 1. How much lift did you get after this swap? 2. Did you use exact same year Outback struts/springs or any year of 2nd gen body style will work? 3. Did you have to remove front/rear stabilizer bar(s)? 4. When doing alignment, which specs mechanics will have to use - Legacy's or Outback's (assuming they are different)? Alex K

I use Bosh platinum (single electrode) when they are on sale, with good results. In 70%-30% highway/city driving I get 30-31 MPG with 99' 2.2L manual. I bought this car three years ago with 127K miles, not it has 190K miles. I use synthetic oil. Everything else is original. I must say I drive like a grandma (60-65MPH) to save gas. When I drove at 70-75 the car made 27-28 MPG. The tires (still the same ones that came with the car) are Toyo Proxes, 195/60/15. Still have a lot of tread left, just getting a bit dried out. So the tire brand (I mean rolling resistance), not only inflation pressure may play a role too.

I am in the same situation with 99 Legacy and have a similar question: while replacing the struts I am thinking of buying the regular Outback struts (I don't want stiffer ride with GR2's) and use my original springs. Eventually when replacing tires, I'd like the smae size as on the Outback (205/70-15). So the question is the same as above - any problems other than related to higher center of gravity: alignment, sway bar attachment, rubbing, longer brakelines/steering shaft extension, etc.

Thanks to all who gave suggestions! Clenaing up the threads and jack's pressure from underneath did the job. "I love it when a plan comes together! " -H. Smith (A-team)

Ron917, thanks for advice - will try it. I actually did add lubrication there - in order not to have problems with disassembly later. Looks like that was my mistake.