mitch184

I just got myself a lsd out of an 88 Fulltime GL10 and was wondering what i can do to test it and make sure that the clutches inside are good before i put the whole diff in. I was also wondering what type of fluid all of you LSD users are using. I know that wellbourne additive is good at making old chevy posi's run real smooth.

I want to put a rear swaybar on my turbowagon, do the rear control arms off of an xt6 match the control arms of my 87? I have looked under various xt's, GL10's with no luck to find a rear sway bar. To my knowledge some RX's, XT's and GL10's came with rear sway bars. Just wondering what the easiest way to go about this is?

I meant the bypass valve would be plumbed on the pipe coming from the turbo to the intercooler. Sorry for the confusion.

I've noticed than with the stock turbo setup, switching from 89 octane down to 87 octane netted noticeable power gains in MY normal rpm range (1500-4500) and 2-3 miles per gallon more at the pump. I also have the timing advanced up to around 23 degrees. Just my thoughts.

I know that the bypass valve on a turbo setup is supposed to go between the intercooler and the throttle body. But what happens if you put the bypass valve between the turbo outlet and the intercooler because say it's way easier and you don't feel all that creative. I read in a magazine that it shouldn't make a difference but everyone i've talked to, read about, or seen has them after the intercooler. Just wondering if anyone's tried it.

I was just really curious because the VIN #JF2AN55B2------ says that it is a gl non GL10. My insurance company ran it up as a GL10 and i have a GL10 rear gate. Did they ever make a GL7.5?

I have a 87 turbowagon that says by the VIN number that it is a GL Turbo not GL10. My rear gate has the GL10 logo on it. I have, digi dash, height adjustable seats, black door handles, trip computer, rear seat w/ head restraints, power moon roof, cloth seats, front and rear doorguards, AC, rear discs, NO centerconsole with arm rest, NO rear antisway bars, NO LSD. It is a 5 spd single range. What the hell is my car!!!!!

yeah, i'm a bit puzzled too about the shifter. I know new ford contours use a cable setup in conjuction with the shifter. I was lookin at one today. I was thinking of somehow trying to use the cable setup with maybe paddle shifters on the steering wheel. That would be a hot ticket.

thanks for the help. Mine is going to look something like that. Did you make the front suspension rigid or not?

that's the plan, i don't know how much it will weigh but it will be light. The motor was lifted out by myself. 2wd tranny won't weigh too much. Everything else will be light too. Tube frame will be very light as well. Anyone know the smallest tire that is made for a 13 inch rim?

thats' great. I'm planning on mounting the whole engine/tranny assembly right above the rear wheels or as close to as possible. THen i would sit right in front of that.

i've got an extra spfi motor laying around and wanted to do something with it so here is the plan. I've already almost finished building a tube frame chasis to hold my spfi motor bolted to a 2wd 5 speed tranny. My main question, what is the spline count on the rear half shafts. Are they the same as the front by any chance. This is my only area of concern. I was thinking of placing the motor in the rear of the chasis and just using rearend half shafts to take out the whole steering problem.

I guess i was just wondering how i figure out if the disty is retarding to compensake for knock if is does it so quick that i cant hear the knock? Trial and error with seat of the pants or what?

what i'm asking i guess is if i were to crank the boost up to say 13 psi and advance the timing all the way. would the car run, but just retard the hell out of the timing automatically? Would i hear the pinging?

I just advanced my timing to around 23 degrees BTDC and am running 9 psi boost. I get no knock whatsoever on 89 octane. I was wondering if this is normal? I have the optical style disty and was wondering if the disty automatically retards the timing if it knocks. If is does this, would i even feel the knock?

you can't buy them through Schwaab, but if you have them shipped to schwaab from the tirerack, they will mount them and warranty them. The softest tire that swamper makes is the sx, which probably weigh almost double the goodyears'. Goodyears' rock in mud too. If you look at Peterson's mud tire test, the goodyears finished ahead of everything except the boggers.

Any bias ply, especially swampers, seem like they would be too heavy. Ask any serious 4 wheeler, they'll probably say the Goodyears would be the way to go. They handle snow better than all the rest. They also bulge a lot better than any tire swamper has ever made. I would definetely go with the Goodyears. If you go through the Tirerack you can get great pricing, plus Les Schwaab will mount them and warranty them.

i seem to recall many people talking about 7000. I personally have only had it up to redline. I have enough problems as it is.

I just got back from a trip up to canada in my 87 turbowagon 5 spd. I got 180 miles and i have 2 bars left on the digi gauge. Any way you put it, that blows. I was going 80-85 the whole way though.

I looked at it again and its all plumbed in the correct way as far as i can tell. Subarutex, I pm'd you so maybe you can help me sort that out. One quick question. The ic i used is out of a saab and i ran the piping the opposite of how they run stock. I was told this should not matter and i was just checking.

I hooked up my ic and bypass valve. I ran the bypass valve from after the ic to the plastic cylinder piece on the intake. The problem is that whenever i accelerate on boost or even close to boost, if i press the clutch in or shift to neutral, the rpm's go down past idle and then it dies. It feels like it is just not getting any air. I bumped up the idle and it helped a little bit. I found this out as a lost power steering and brakes going around a corner. NOT FUN. Another thing is i'm still getting lots of oil in the intake. I'm changing the pcv valve tomorrow but want to just put air filters on the end of the pcv hoses that go into the intake. Will this work? HELP!

I thought i remembered someone saying something about that. The pcv is routed into the intake. Is is possible that the case is pressurizing and forcing oil up into the intake?

its a used intercooler, but its been sitting around for about a month now. I also ran the 200 mph leaf blower through it because i dropped some plastic shavings down it. (sounds bad but i didn't turn it up all the way or have it very close.) I noticed on the stock setup that there would be a little oil on the rubber clamp on the turbo outlet. ???????!!!!!!

i'm trying to be optimistic. The turbo seems to be in very good shape as there is very little play in the shaft and there are no exterior leaks coming off the turbo. Would i see a leak on the outside of the turbo?

I hooked up my nice new intercooler for a while today to make sure every thing fit nice. I ran around for about 5 minutes. Then i came back and took the intercooler off and when i took it off, engine oil ran out of the turbo side ic inlet. I don't know where the oil came from, my only guess is the crankcase ventilation is pushing oil up into the intake. Should i be worried? Will this clog my ic?