mikeamondo

What brand plugs and wires for subies?

It's likely been a couple years since he last tune up. It starts just fine and does not act flooded.... The power sluggishness is most notable when heading up steep hills. The fuel filters may be quite old.... But would that cause the milage issue? Can a standard muffler shop like midas check the cat? Fuel filter(s)..... Inside the tank or on the frame rail?.... Are there 2? Looks like tune up and filters is going to have to be first to rule it out and maybe a cat test....

1995 legacy 2.2 automatic, awd, 160,000, all stock.... I own 4 2.2 legos... All get around 22 mpg average. A few weeks back my son noticed he was dumping more gas in more often than normal. Had him check the gas mileage over a full tank.... 13.7 mpg. Also, it seems to be lacking its previous get up and go.... Sluggish, but not horrible. I have had the cat converter suggested.... What other likely culprits are good starting points? No engine light, by the way.... Thanks!

Pulled the back wheels again tonight and took off both new rotors and sets of pads. I then used my Dremmel to grind down the rusty bits on the caliper holder where the clips sit. Also ground down the slots a bit on the pads themselves. Pads went back on easy as pie, so I'm sure they'll move okay now. Took the car for a drive and there was some grinding / scraping at first. I deliberatly pushed it hard into some turns, hoping the rotor would wear away the rust or dig a groove for itself. Surprisingly, it seemed to work. (As I type this, it sounds pretty dubious). As I went about 4 miles, the scraping became less and didn't even happen as I turned back in the drive. Here's hopin' it's done! So... I think the Wearever rotors are just a smidge bigger than OEM and that, combined with a slightly rusty dust cover, resulted in scraping. Brakes work great, though! Thanks for the help!

I scraped down the dust sheild down a bit, where it was bubbled / scaled from rust. It was actually in pretty good shape... I usually find rusty remenants of dust shields. It was the rear, and of course, with new rotors, there is no rust ring on the drum.... So, should this quit on it's own with some driving, or should I pull the wheels again and scrape like crazy to get it down further? Since the rotors are new, is a rusty shield the only other possibility for contact, or should I be looking elsewhere?

I put new rotors on the rear of our 95 Lego Wagon L, AWD, auto, 150k. Used Wearever cheapo rotors from Advance with top 'o the line ThermoQuiets from Wagner for the pads. Job went okay, except one side was really tight on the pads... difficult to get over the rails..... not sure it will slide correctly. That was driver's side. Took him out for a drive and the brakes worked fine, quiet, firm, no pulsating in the pedal. Then I went around a right turn and heard this scraping sound from the back passenger side. Repeated while I turned around and drove home. Nice a quiet on the straight, scraping sound in a right hand turn. Step on the brakes and then it got quiet, while on the brakes, came back when I let off. Any ideas? Mike

Awesome.... we're going out to visit her in a month, so I'll clean it for her while we're out there. Can anyone point me to a detailed set of instructions for cleaning or replacing the IAC? Thanks! Mike

So I got some more info on the stalling issue. The car idles at about 1,000 rpm. She turned on the ac and it died. Once. The next time, it kept running and I had her test it few times. It idles nicely at 1,000 and then when the ac switch is pushed, it drops to a steady 500 and does not return to 1k. This is the 2.2 engine. Not sure if it dies in neutral, as it only dies now and then, not at every light. So does that sound like the IAC? Thanks for the help!

My daughter is in Cedar City, Utah, I'm in WV trying to get some ideas on what's up with Roo... her 95 Impreza, AWD, 2.2L, auto, about 155k. Very simply put, the car is dying at intersections. Just before she left to drive across the country, we did a major tune up... wires, plugs, belts, filters, etc. Most all of the basics should be new. Problem first appeared as sluggishness over the Rockys. I thought the thin air might be causing an issue. Coming down the other side of the Rockys, the issues went away.... but now that she's in Cedar City, it is stalling occasionally at intersections. Cedar City, by the way, sits at 5840 feet elevation. By comparison, the car has been operated between 1200 and 2400 feet elevation for most of the last 4 years. I'd be more comfortable with her driving back in Sept. if the problem were fixed first. What would you suggest to try first? Mass airflow? Any tests she might conduct to get a little more info? No CEL's are on, but she hasn't pulled any codes, either. Anyone know of any good, trustworthy mechanics in the Cedar City area? Thanks! Mike

It's an L model with ABS, AWD.... I'll get a chance to look at it today and make a plan of action. More snow next week... Thanks for the replies!

My daughter's 95 Leg L Sedan seems to be having a problem with one rear wheel locking up with almost no brake pressure on the pedal. Causes big issues on slick roads, as you might imagine. I don't have the car here right now.... so I'm trying to determine first if it has disc or drums on the back..... So... Discs or drums on a '95 Leg? And... what might be making it do that?

So our son got a flat in our '99 AWD Legacy wagon, 2.2L auto, and the tire could not be repaired. Sears had the exact tire in stock, and changed it out free under the Road Hazzard warranty. The other three tires measure 9 out of 11 on their tread depth gauge... Is that too much difference? Will it cause the tranny issues you get with different sized tires? Can't imagine a flat tire costing $400.... you know, if I have to replace all four! Maybe someone should offer a 'tire wear down' service, to remove the right amount of the new tire in this situation... Maybe a machine that spins the tire against a giant wire brush..... Thanks! Mike

Thanks Gary! I'll touch base as soon as I get around to doing the job! Any luck with the Forester yet?

Sounds like he's describing good ole' fashion Tester's model glue to me.... disolves the top layer of each piece and they kind of fuse together. I'll probably wait until spring to tackle the CV, since it doesn't sound like impending disaster... need to get the punch, but I think I've got everything else.... I'll post a pic of the new Subie soon.... still don't have a name for him yet...

What tools are required to do the CV joints? Can it be done with a basic set of wrenches/sockets/etc.? Thanks for all the replies! I'll dig into the dash in the next week or so... I've done a couple stereos in my other subies, so that should be no sweat. I'd like to tackle more substantial stuff... especially in the drive line, so maybe this CV joint is good one to start with!

Well, I finally decided to care a little less about miles and take on a slightly more, shall we say, mature, subie.... Found a RUST FREE '95 Legacy L wagon, auto, awd, 2.2L, with 145k miles. He's dark blue, and if it wasn't dark out already, I'd post a pic or two! Just got a new timing belt and one new axel, brakes and few other new goodies. Got about $2,800 in it, so I'm happy.... a rust free body is nearly impossible to find here in WV. This one came out of Baltimore. A one owner, to boot! Anyway... the first 2 things I need to tackle.... 1) Minor prob. - no lights at night behind the climate control panel. Is there a fuse for that, or do I need to dig into the dash? I know it's not hard to get in there... 2) Clicking, fairly loud, in the front driver's side wheel, in a left turn only, under acceleration. It's quiet the rest of the time. Wheel Bearing? And, if so... can I change those, or do you need to press to get them out / in? Took the old boy on a 300 mile road trip, on some good ice and snow, and he did great! thanks! Mike

I wish we had a nice selection of rust free cars here... but in the under $5k price range, in northern WV, anyway, forget it. (One particular Forester excepted...) If I were looking at 03's or 04's and had 6 or 7 grand to spend, yeah. But Subies are in high demand here. The 'usual' rust spot is right behind each rear wheel, and it's very rare to see a mid 90's model here that doesn't have rust or a repaired area there. Another trouble spot seems to be in the rear door jam, at the rear of the door.... You can stay ahead of rust but you'll likely have to redo the repairs every other year or so. As far as the stuff under the hood and in wierd places.... I only ask because my other old cars ... 97 TownCar and 92 LeSabre show no similar signs. Kind of hard not to buy east of the Missippi... Ususally end up needing something fast and have no time to shop the country and plan getting it back here. Thanks for the offer on the GT... wife can't stand leather seats.... -Mike

I'm looking at a 98 Leg Sedan LS, 2.2L, AWD with 95k miles on it. Price is $4k. Exterior is very clean with only 2 small bubbles in the usual place behind the rear tire. Underside is clean and looks undercoated. BUT.... open the hood. Every bolt head and metal bracket is covered with rust. Likewise the supports for the radiator. Look at the interior, and it's clean, but the seat support on the floor is rusty. The floor itself, solid. How do bolt heads and seat brackets get rusty, but the body is nearly flawless? My daughter's 95 sedan, also low mileage, has the same issue. Brackets and bolt heads all over the car are rusty, but the body is nice. What gives?

Just wanted to say thanks for all the input.... sold the car last week! Looking at a '98 sedan to replace him! Mike

SUCCESS! Backed the rear end over a small bank (snoot high) and removed the upper hose, filled the block from there and put the hose back on. Then filled the radiator with the air bleed plug out and started the car. Added a little more while he idled and then closed up everything. New I was on the right track, as the lower hose finally got warm. Took it for drive... about 5 miles... .up a steep hill and back... stayed cool the whole way! Where's that dancing banana?!?! There he is! Dance, Banana, Dance! Looks like it was a bad cap that led to low fluid and an air bubble. Sure beats head gaskets! Thanks for all the help! --Mike

Yesterday was a long day.... just realized I forgot one symptom. After I drove the car with the new thermostat and it overheated, I noticed it was leaking from under the cap, kind of in small surges. Does that mean a bad cap? And could that account for the symptoms? Could you give me a description of the function of the cap itself and how it relates to the system as a whole? Also.... Number 1 fits exactly with my car. And it's completely predictable like you describe. No bubbles that I've ever seen. It sounds like number 2 test can be performed with the radiator in the car..... is that right? If so I might try that this afternoon, before giving in and taking it to my mechanic.... Thanks! Mike

Swapped the thermostat... started the car and as it ran, filled the radiator, with the air bleed plug at the top open.... when steam started coming out of the plug, I put it back in and continued to fill the radiator till full.... Idled for 20 miniutes or so and temp gauge came up half way and stopped. Fans came on and ran fine. Thought I had it fixed. Headed up the road for test.... as I accelerated, the needle began climbing right away and continued steadily up to hot.... less than a mile down the road. Came back and shut it down. No muddy or dark color to the fluid... nice and green. I've never seen any bubbles anywhere. The jug is just full of nice, green, cold fluid. In this last test, the lower hose never did get hot.... Plugged radiator?

It's not boiling over.... no bubbles, etc. And, it never gets sucked back into the engine.... as though once it came out and filled the bottle, it could not get back in. Just now, I drove the car about 7 miles, part of it interstate. Had to pull over once and let it cool down, after it pegged H. It heated up like you would expect, but kept on going into the Hot range. When I got to my office, I popped the hood... All the fluid was still in the bottle, and it was cold. I could stick my finger in it. The top hose was hot to the touch. The bottom hose was cold. The fans were not running, and it seemed to me they should have been. So, what does that tell you?

Can't believe my luck.... our 03 is sitting with a smushed snoot, and now my daughter's 95 legacy is overheating..... 2.2L AWD auto, 90k miles. About a week ago, she noticed some coolant on the ground, and I took a look see.... added 1/2 gallon or so and ran the car till it got warm, looking for leaks.... found none. I think now that it may have overflowed when she got home the previous evening, rather than slowing leaking overnight. Today, she drove it about 5 miles and then noticed the temp guage pegged at H. She pulled off and I came out to check it.... the overflow jug is filled to the top, and 1/2 hour after shutting it down (when I got there), the radiator cap was cool and could be removed. She also said she tried to cool the engine by running the heater, like I had told her to do if it ever ran hot.... Good Girl, Maisie!.... but only cold air came out.... no heat. The engine was cool, so I had her drive about 3 miles to our mechanic's shop... closed today, Sunday.... she said it registered normal until coming up a steep, fairly long hill, (Easton Hill for you Morgantown folk), when it shot up to H. On the level again, it dropped back a little, but still almost to H. I'm heading back into town, going to move the car to my office where there is a garage, and go buy a new thermostat to try.... I'll check back here before I dig in to see if any of you have any advice. Once I drive across town, I'll check the upper hose to see if it's hot... I understand that would indicate thermostat stuck closed.

Here's a link to a slideshow of the damage, as well as pics from the accident site... http://www.fpcvirtual.com/tours/87/index.cfm?imageID=934 I put the car in our magazine this week, and I've got some interest .... seems like I might get $2,000 0 $2,500 of him... Wish I had the time and expertise to fix him myself, but I have zero of both .... especially when it comes to body work. I can track down a loose connector or a bad sensor.... but body work... outside in November? no way!