buru

Can the engine be lifted more than 2" so that it CAN clear the pickup tube?? Will the tranny mounts have to be unbolted too?

I'm replacing the oil pan gasket in my 92 loyale this weekend and wondering if I jack up the engine high enough, will the pan clear the pickup tube and come off?......since I know removing the tube is harder than crap. Also, do you all remove the bolts from the mount to the engine, or the mount to the cross-member? Does anything else have to be removed, such as the shifter linkage, to accomodate for jacking the engine up? Thanks

Picked up a turbo today off an 87 XT at the junkyard. Saw it, so I thought I would grab it. How do I tell if it's any good? It's a little rusty on the outside, but it spins freely. Also the car has a set of mag aluminum wheels on it, how much would be a reasonable price to pay for the set? Thanks

I've got a little problem with the shifter on my 92 Loyale. It's a 3 speed AT and shifts smoothly from park into R,N,D,1,2. But when I try to shift from drive into park I get quite a bit of resistance. Is this just a problem that can be fixed by adjustment and if so anyone know how to do that? Thanks

Been having the same problem with my loyale, except I'm getting code 34-egr solenoid. Some people have said this can be the culprit for the problem described in this thread, even if no code is showing. Just got three solenoids from the junkyard, we'll see if one fixes it.

Fairly new to the board, and I need all your all's soob expertise. Ok, so I got a 92 Loyale that's had code 34:banghead: since I got it a few weeks ago. Car runs really good except for being a little sluggish now and then till you hit about 35 mph. It's almost not even noticeable. But I'm one of those people that just has to fix it. So I've read about a thousand old threads on the EGR Valve and solenoid, and there seems to be a lot of conflicts on this issue. Has anyone ever fixed this problem by replacing the solenoid and/or valve? I didn't see anything about the problem being solved. So far I checked all the hoses for leaks, checked the connector to the solenoid (although I don't have a meter to test the solenoid), did the test on the valve (ok, and valve is clean), and removed the valve to check for buildup. The ports looked almost completely clean. The car only has 104,000 miles on it, and most everything on the engine is in emaculate shape, even still shiny in some places. So before I replace the solenoid and then the valve if need be, I wanted to know if anyone has had success if solving this problem. If so, I'm hitting the PAP this weekend to find a couple of s/noids and valves. Anybody have an extras if I can't find any? Thanks for the help!

Yeah those bolts can be tight too, had to use a big beaker on mine. Should be lots of fun with a rounded head Good luck

Best option would be to helicoil it or tap out for next biggest size....you could see if one bolt will hold it.....but it just depends on how ballsy you are and whether you want to have to tear into it again if it comes loose. I replaced my tensioners @ 100,000 miles cause they were pretty worn out, check yours good. Wouldn't worry about the belt brand since you already have them, they'll last awhile (although not as long as OEM).

You only have to pull the hub off and then remove the disc from that. The bearings are pressed into the knuckle. Just get the caliper and bracket bolts off, and remove the cast. nut, washer and spacer. May have to use a puller to get the hub off. There is a minimum spec thickness for the disc casted into the inside of it. If it's less than this, get new discs. If not, just have them turned (resurfaced) unless they are in perfect shape, which is unlikely. Most people suggest always turning rotors with new pads. Sometimes I do, sometimes I don't. The pads just last longer, the better shape the rotors are in.

I agree with what the others said. Also, you want to start the car and shift through all the gears when you refill and check the level.

I got a 92 Loyale and my oil pressure is the exact same. Running temp @4000 rpm, spec pressure should be about 35-45 I think, and @ 2000 rpm only 15-25. So since idle should be about 700-800 rpm on these engines, yeah your pressure is going to be around 10 or less. I had the same thoughts when I first got the loyale though. Like turbone said, your pump is probably not bad, but you can always double check it. Just pull off your pressure sending unit and pop on a gauge to get an accurate reading.

The pcv valve screws into the intake manifold, center rear of the engine, just below the carb. You can be sure by following the hoses attached to it (the hoses that go to the valve covers).

Thats one of the great things about this board, so you don't have to go somewhere to get it diagnosed . There's lots of people here who can help ya get it figured out, as long as you can put in the time and elbow grease. Tear into her!

thepartsbin.com has complete OEM gasket sets

Does the car actually get abnormally hot, or is the gauge just telling you that? I don't mean to sound rude, just troubleshooting. May be that the cooling sensor or gauge is faulty. If it is overheating, make sure the thermostat was installed right. Did you use an aftermarket brand, or a quality tstat? There is a world of difference in the quality of tstats. Double check hoses for blockages. Remove the radiator (very simple) and inspect it carefully. Any doubts, replace it, usually less than 100 bucks and can save your engine from costly damage.