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Everything posted by bheinen74
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Wrench N Go Update
bheinen74 replied to The Dude Abides's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
see post #26 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=103461&highlight=coupe+rear+bumper&page=3 i think i made the hood inoperable cause i was going to go back to get some parts but never did. glad it still has what i wanted. I like to seal the hoods to keep other people from getting stuff. Just kidding on sealing the hood. that car had a serious forest of moss going on inside it.....not typical of a iowa car. Ben, what "newer" car r u talking about. That place really doesnt seem to turn over the cars fast enough for my liking. 6months in a wrench n go........and its still all there. No desire for old subaru parts in this part of the country. There was a red 4dr sedan Soob there, I think McBrat put a big 30 inch tire on the back as he is always modding and lifting these, so its a habit he has to do. Did you see that one. -
the only red that "should" be on the guage cluster is warning lights, or a pegged portion (too hot, gas low, etc) I think the engineers did wrong when they made the needles red, now a warning will blend in more and less noticed. But....I am not an engineer.......so they will do what they do and I will complain about them like i do.
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most ej22 first series will outlast everything else on the car. There are many i have seen evidence of getting to over 400,000 miles. I cannot say that about the ej25 every soob I see in the junkyard with a ej22 in the hood is not there due to an engine failing, the car is there due to rust, or a wreck.
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Can I Not trust any garage anymore? :(
bheinen74 replied to hatchsub's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
the only car i own that i would let any shop touch is my 06 outback. when i had the exhaust work done on my Brat, I swear they put it on a lift using the floor pan as a lift point on the lift pad. And, they drilled a exhaust mount strap to the frame rail. Mind you, I don't like any extra holes drilled in anything I own. My last real time i took any car to a shop was when i lived in New Orleans and I had a midpipe on my CRX rust out. I didnt have time, or tools to replace it, and took it to a Meineke or something like that. I watched them torch cut off the old pipe, seeing the sparks flying. Wasnt but about 2 weeks later, and i had bearings going out on the transmission. Reason, the sparks had put holes in the axle shaft seals from their torch cut of the exhaust, and let all my gear oil drip out enough to cause bearings to go dry and eat themselves. Anyhow, i trust no one to fix anything on my cars, now, the 06, its replaceable with the equivalent or better any day of the year just going to cars.com. Can't do that with my SVX, Civic Si, or Brat, the replacements of the condition they are in would take YEARS to source, as I have spent years finding my collection of cars. I dont settle for the off the lot cars, i want one owner cars, and not rusted, garaged with service records, never painted not even a single spot respray, i wont settle for that. etc. I wish there were more good shops around, and here in Iowa we have some of the better ones that do care about doing the job right, compared to places in other states that screw you over more. -
you are right. if it did work okay, then we will find a way to get it back to that. With that many miles, have you had the hvac air filtration filter changed yet. They can get quite bad after that many miles. Mine had 89k on it and it was TERRIBLE/double my parents My parents had 36k on theirs, and it was Bad/nasty
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Thats a nifty way to clear the strut spring perch, and provide a lift at the same time. Thats nice.
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need to swap an xt front clip to the ea82 wago, and then make a huge long tail fin out the back rear like a teardrop shape cone off the back. cover the rear wheel wells with fenders from a Honda Insight put aluminum pizza pans on the front rims. Its easy as pie. low rolling resistant tires aired to 50psi gut the weight, and underbody shield, lowered of course. easy, dont forget new plugs, wires, air filter, fuel filters, and the best tuneup you can give it, and a good grade of Amoco Ultimate or Sunoco premium. Use full synthetics on oil, that reduces friction internally. maybe port and polished heads and a better cam, ditch all unneccessary electronics, they draw power from the alternator (no radio)
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unusual head gasket failure, EA82
bheinen74 replied to MilesFox's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
my first guess is, they had the left and right heads on the wrong sides of the engine, tightened all up. Then they fixed that mix up, and proceeded to reuse the already squished headgaskets. That was mistake number 1 and 2, of probably many others. -
you really need to put in all the bolts to hold the headlight assembly. otherwise, bulb life is greatly reduced, and your light beam is bouncing all around, very irritating to others when driving along the road. ignore whatever was said about the one behind the grill being optional. its not. You don't want the filament of the headlight bulb bouncing around, unless you have lots of money to replace bulbs that blow alot.
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apparently there has been a software ECU update, My problem is getting to any of the 3 dealers (all are 145+ miles roundtrip, and they tend to need the car for a halfday appointments, so my 3 hours drive time approx, and them getting an appointment, well, the dealers suck here. and very glad CTS did not make the sensor switch. I will use a vacation day for this i guess, will be lucky if i return with the car, and not trade it.
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wondering who makes the gas pedal drive by wire electronics? mine doesnt stick, but instead has a little hesitation especially noticeable when turning off a highway, onto a side street and then trying to get going after the turn, it is like it doesn't kick in when it is supposed too, kinda a lazy reaction to the gas pedal motion. on the 06, but of course.
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just follow the chilton instruction to remove the single phillips screw to slide the side marker lens off and replace the bulb . . Or, as we all know, Subaru made 2 different designs, a all n one headlight (silly them cause then the headlight has to be removed) and a 2 piece (good design for when needing to replace indicator bulbS) :-\ maybe the engineer that made them realized it was bad to have to go thru so much to change a silly bulb That engineer must have also designed the rear tailight on the 06 Otuback, there is no quick access panel, and the whole tailight has to come out to replace stop bulb
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mazda rotery engine transplant, is it possable?
bheinen74 replied to hotrod_sol's topic in Subaru Transplants
anything is possible, My dad put a 12a rotary in a 76 audi 100LS nice car then. -
yeah this is true, i thought mazda mpv van with the AWD had same 4eat too, cross compatible. little secret we have on the svx board http://www.subarusvx.com/faq/transmission.html
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did you have anything in the back in a jug that might have tipped over? I carried a transmission in the back of mine once, it flipped on the side nd for the longest time i had ATF leaking down from the inside quarter panel. I have also carried old motor oil in a milk jug back there and it tipped over and spilled. There are numerous possibilities. Axle boot torn? Even once a battery tipped over and spilled battery acid. There are half a million things it could be if you carry junk back there.