bheinen74

I like that color combo and it would make Guido look sweet.. I think Subaru wins in putting the tire Under" the hood, not ON the hood

What year and model is your car you are asking about?

primer is very very porous, like a sponge. it is this way to make paint stick to it. Primer alone will actually cause it to rust faster if not topped with paint right away, because the pores atract mositure. A good painter will not simply just prime a car. that is why. the sooner (like think immediately when the primter dries on its own is the exact right time to paint)a prime gets top coated the better it looks, the better it sticks, and the longer it holds up.

Jpn, yay FUJI heavy industries. after 94 then they were bullt here and the downhill slide has never stopped since. except for stronger sales, thats good, better cars, nope, better engines, nope. safer cars, yep..

sounds famiier, and i sold mine before replacing it. bet the o2 sensor causes more problems with bad mpg than anything, yet the good old CEL never tells you that. great electronic control units, they do us NO GOOD really when you think about it, even cause more harm than good sometimes, the older the car gets. computers are dumb, ones and twos, they only care about them but dont know what to do with the numbers usually until someone develops a useful program to interpret them. idiot light are for dummies anyhow. New cars wont even let you put the gas cap on, it will still give darn code to remove cap and reattach. How many fricking cars made since 1905 wont run with the gas cap on, but not on right? think about how much computers have hampered us. back on topic i hope the gas mileage comes to a normalcy. report if it was the o2

I would seriously give thought on ditching the air suspension system, it was "cool" when new, but age takes a toll, its very costly to fix, and very costly to keep maintaining. (think over and over and over and over repairs to keep it) Get some real struts on there, and be happy. (just a one time cost) and you are done. There is a reason Subaru offered it then but didnt continue to offer the air suspension EVER again. It was crap after it aged. Get some decent normal struts with coilovers. Subaru never perfected it to last, and neither will you no matter how much you care about it and throw money at it. Be a winner and convert to normal suspension, or keep tossing coins at it and report your long term results.

oem from jason (Mike Scarff Subaru) for the 99 outback was 75 dollars, plus shipping. thats the wholesale price a dealer may sell for if you haggle. Don't go aftermarket on this.

WOW x 10000 clean, nice fit instead of a carb I am concerned about the valve cover breather vent hoses. One of those needs fresh air inlet (you cant just t it off to the pcv), that is how the crankcase works.

a knock sensor code will force the ECU into failsafe mode, meaning highly retarded timing. this will result in ultra rich fuel conditions, you will get 15 mpg vs the typical 25 mpg, etc, and power will be down. It forces this to be pig rich to avoid any detonation and further damage. Knock sensor is not something to go to the parts store for, and not something to get from a junkyard car or not to be bought used. they almost 100% have a failure rate after being 5 years old, the plastic casing gets brittle, and hard, and develops small cracks, that is when they fail. Get new, from Subaru. should be between 45 and 75 bucks depending on year and model.

washing the engine killed your knock sensor. Its happened to a many people, they sometimes get cracks in them due to age, and once water reached it, the death of the knock sensor. If I am wrong, so be it, but that is my 100 cents I have also seen people short out the MAF sensor or the TPS sensor in similar ways, and also seen alternators die this way as well and the coil packs and igniters are like cats, they hate water too.l. Usually bad things result with water on a newer engine.

you can also use the knockouts from a electrical box i believe, even cheaper yet. I have a quarter in mine cause i know it can take the heat.

huh? what. a what year legacy turbo? added turbo i guess.

If you take it to them to test like that, they will not let your car leave til they put the controller in it (liability issue), plus they can make quick easy money selling you one....and installing it and such. I agree, there is lots of room to be gotten back with all this stuff in there. Anyone notice how the interiors of cars these days are so tiny, now they have to cram in the side airbags, the front airbags, the seat airbags, etc. Give us more space if we want it.

Its fine and dandy to replace the headgaskets before they do in fact go bad. I would NOT resurface those heads tho in that type of case. Inspect the heads and if within tolerance (measured with a straight edge and feeler guage) leave them well alone. Resurfacing them when not needed is a HUGE waste of money and time. Do: T belt, and ALL associated pulleys and tensioners that go with the Tbelt, use ONLY Subaru Branded headgaskets, replace water pump and gasket, fresh coolant, front cam seals, etc. that 2500 quote will decrease considerable if the heads arent needing machining, which i dont think they do right now.

I got my brother his new one for his 99 outback from radiatorbarn.com arrived quickly, VERY well packed, and no problems with fitment at all, fit just like the oem in every way. It is well made as well.

? You mean the release fork? removal? Use a 10mm bolt and thread into the side it will pull out the retainer pin and remove it all as an assembly.

Airbags are not quite like tires, you can't just go to the local tireshop and get new ones. People THAT concerned with having them inspected, probably should just buy a new car. Nothing lasts forever, and true, airbags after aging can deteorate etc. Wear your seatbelt, or get a new car. The seatbelt is just as safe. Having new tires, good suspension, good eyesight, etc, etc is more concerning than having your air bags inspected. does the airbag light come on when you first turn the key, along with all the other warning lights? If so, and then it goes off when the other warning lights go off, its good. A dealer can check that for you if you are not aware how to check, and yes they will charge to do so. They are NOT going to inspect your bags even if you ask. It,s not like inspection stations require the airbag inspections......they check the warning light on it. Its highly probable that of 10 year old and older cars on the road, only half still have functioning airbags. Its also probable that 100% of them still work. Even brand new cars are shown to not have airbags deploy when they are supposed to. That is why, I recommend, WEAR your seatbelt. Seatbelts work.

I greatly improved the heat output on the driver side feet of my 06 today. I removed the plastic cover under the steering column (2 plastic pop screws, one plastic button retainer, and the 4 screws holding diagnostic connector in. Once that was out of the way, found the 3 little slots where the air blows out from. I used some tin snips, sides cutters, and a air powered rotary grinder with honing tip. On the center outlet, is a criss cross gate of plastic, snip that out of the way completely. Then with grinder, grind away all around the other outlets and the center one that had the criss cross gate, making them double or more in size. I made the outlet closest to the radio the largest, about 3 times the factory size. Then hold the plastic cover back up, making note where to grind it. and grind the slots away on it too. Take steel wool and shove into the 2 slots under driver seat duck, and same on passenger side. If you consistently have back seat passenger, just block off one on each side. I used steel wool, due to the fact eventually later on in the cars life, rodents can make a nest with something else, this will prevent that. I think this is about 85% better heat to the feet and will be adequate. I highly recommend this fix for those of you having the same.

A very common problem in the newer cars is no heat to the feet. see: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=16356&highlight=no+heat+to+feet and http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=22542 for reference. I would like to ask those of you with newer Baja's, Imprezas, WRX's, and Foresters, if you have feet heat or not, so as to know if I should consider those.

timing sounds off.

i said cross fingers. he may luck out .

You will need to pull apart the motor from the tranny again. Search for torque converter seating all the way. Most likely you can get enough room in between motor and tranny without completely pulling out the motor. You then need to get the torque converter fully seated, and put back together crossing fingers. Many threads on here, too bad you weren't a member here before tackling the job. You are going to get good practice at this.

would be worth it to put a good belt on it after ligning up your marks and see if it starts and runs without noises. before you tear into it.

freeze plugs. built in. this was 1000% avoidable. use antifreeze next time